Dies very easily when letting out clutch & low torque.

[zombie]

It has to do with Intake manifold, and exhaust length. The shorter intake, and exhaust side of a V twin engine will run richer if jetted the same as the longer side.  I believe your intake is split 50/50 but which ever cylinder has the longer exhaust pipe gets the leaner jet.

[ChaosMagnum]

Well the front cylinder definitely has the longer exhaust pipe.  But that's the one that's jetted to 110.  while the shorter rear one is jetted to 108.  Shouldn't they be flipped around then?  Also Another question.  I tried fitting a higher flow air filter on it.  But with the extra flow, the bike does not want to accelerate at all.  I'm lucky to get it past 30 mph, and if i pin it, the bike just bogs down and slowly drops in rpm.  Is that just because the extra air is causing it to run too lean?

[zombie]

Yes tooooooo lean. Try the original air box, and flip the jets around. Someone may have confused them in a prior cleaning.

Pay REAL close attention to the ports under the pilot jets. That is where your main issue most likely is. Have you tried adjusting the MIX screws to induce a stall? That will tell you those circuits are clear.

[ChaosMagnum]

I looked in a pdf service manual for the venox.  And it says under the carb specifications that main jet sizes are: FR:#110 and RR:#108 ( any thoughts on that?? )  I have not tried to do the mix screws to induce a stall.  I'll try that when I throw the carbs back together  So I'm curious with the higher flow air filter then.  IF I wanted to use a higher flow air filter.  How many sizes up do you think I should do the main and slow jets? 

[zombie]

Then I got the pipe size backwards...

Too re-jet I'd get a set of 5. They go up in steps of two at a time. I would start w/ the RICHEST, and work backwards if you have too. It's better than thinking it is right, and being too lean. Rich won't really hurt anything but lean can end this thread in a few hundred yards.

[max oradea]

air filter 1st buddy! get the stock! the airbox/filter actually is a little tricky! its made to give enough flow of air to make the engine run clean and slightly lean on low end and restricts the air flow on high end to make the mixture richer for more power and keep the bike from over heating, there is also the idle close valve that gives a extra flow of fuel when you are closing the throttle on engine breaking!
the jetting about the 110 and 108, follow the manual! its because of the water circulating rear 1st then front so front is fitted with 110. reversing the jets will definitely make one cylinder run richer and the other leaner, if both colors are the same then you are good, if they are slightly off then use the idle mixture screw to compensate.

[ChaosMagnum]

Ok i got a big problem.  I think in my last cleaning of the carbs, the float bowls got out of spec.  The service manual I have says that the float bowl height should be 17.5mm in the front and 19mm in the back.  Problem is that the floats don't even get close to that measurement nor are they physically capable of doing so.  So does anyone have the proper spec numbers?  Or someone point me in the right direction? 

[max oradea]

they are adjustable but i never touched them... when i measured them they were not according to the manual either. so if you have not touched them and they seem not been worked on before then dont fiddle with it.
played with my nsr floats before and had serious problems.

[ChaosMagnum]

I don't suppose you remember what those measurements were do you?  Cause it smells like it's running rich and it won't hold an idle anymore

[zombie]

Forget the specs. The float center line should be parallel to the body of the carb when inverted. Since you have to remove them again... Double check the seats, and be sure there is nothing up in there. With the carb inverted you should NOT be able to blow air thru the fuel inlet.

[max oradea]

old air filter can cause smelly running and impossible idle. check the exhaust pip and see if both are with a lot of carbon build up, one float being faulty possible... 2 at the same time.. not likely.

[ChaosMagnum]

Hey guys. Sorry ive been inactive.  Transmission in my car exploded and I've been dealing with that fun stuff.  But I'm back to takling the venox now.  Zombie, In regards to what you said about the center line of the float.  Which line are you referring to?  Cause I'm not seeing any lines that I can line up with the carb body

[zombie]

You have to make an imaginary line. ( bear w/ me) Split the surface area of the float in half, and use that as a guide. It may help you to remove the float, and scribe a line.

Something else that may help is filling a glass bowl w/ water. You can put the carb in up to the body, and observe when the float closes.

I just align it so it seats the needle when the float is parallel to the body. Blowing in thru the fuel inlet simply verifies it is closed, and sealing.

[ChaosMagnum]

Hey again.  Sorry for the silence.  I've just had no time to work on my venox.  I tried starting again today.  Zombie.  Perhaps you can do me a favor?  This is a link to a picture I took of one of the floats.  Could you perhaps use paint or some type of program to draw the line you were speaking of and re-upload it?  http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v96/GreyOmini/20140813_142816.jpg

[max oradea]

did the air filter come in?