Just bought a new 2013 Like 50

[Berzerker1965]

Just bought my 2013 Like 50. Had a Honda CH80. The missing 30 cc is killing me. I ride with 2 people a lot and want to get a big bore kit. I've read all the posts here and learned tons. Thanks guys. Any way I'm breaking in the scooter now. 90 miles so far. Ride for 10 miles stop and let the engine cool and ride another 10 miles. I would like to the upgrade all at once. I'd like to keep the exhaust and not pre-mix oil if possible, I'm lazy. I figure big bore kit and new carberater. Change clutch spring to 1500, but open for suggestions on anything and everything. The scooter handles great any has plenty of room for my plus 1. Just looking for more power.

[zombie]

If you want to keep the factory pipe you need a low rpm BBK.

Malossi sport 70cc is a good choice. 19mm Delorto carb w/ a handful of jets... Polini Variator, and Polini Clutch kit. 1500 spring is ok but at 200 lbs I find the 2000 or full race springs work better

This will get you 55MPH flat, and a steady cruise of 50.

Call Louie at SPI, and set up a dealer account. I imagine the whole deal is under 300.00

http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=11581.0

When you get your kit post up, and I will help you get it prepped for install.

[245luigi]

I have a like 50 2t with the 70cc kit. The BBK does make having 2 people on the bike alot easier. 2nd zombie. You should be able to find me 70cc build thread under the technical section.

[BettinANDlosing]

If you plan on keeping the stock exhaust make sure you de-restrict it, I made a good write up for that one. The restricted exhaust will kill the power on the 70cc kit. Also for two up riding I highly suggest maxing up your rear tire pressure 45psi it so, any drag you can get rid of on a 50cc gets results!!!

[Berzerker1965]

Thanks about the tire pressure I'm about 210 & she's about 98lbs. I read your post about the exhaust. Not to sure if I want to go that far. If anything I will go with a new exhaust.

[Berzerker1965]

I've just broke 100 miles! Went out to get dinner, any excuse to ride. Lol. Quick question. Should I continue the break in and finish, before I mod or go ahead and mod it and start the break in anew? I'm replacing a lot of parts that require break in.

Once again l would like to say thank you.

[zombie]

Break in starts new. It's good to have the bike test driven, and proven before changing the cylinder but you have to go thru the same all over again if you want the BBK to last, and develop full power w/ no blow by on the rings. 

De- restricting the OEM pipe is as easy as knocking out a washer in the end of the pipe. You really don't have to do anything else.

There is a book in the Kymco Links section... actually 2 books. Grahm Bells 2t tuning, and another 2t tunning book ( i forgot the name).

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_14035800650549&key=bcfea0fd476a8a822a6a6ba786ff02e1&libId=c36b6059-fb34-40c2-b82a-70dc2ef64660&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kymcoforum.com%2Findex.php%3Ftopic%3D495.15&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.scribd.com%2Fdoc%2F18032572%2FKymco-Agility-125-R16-%253Cbr%2520%2F%253E%253Cbr%2520%2F%253E%5Burl%3Dhttp%3A%2F%2Fedj.net%2F2stroke%2Fjennings%2F&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kymcoforum.com%2Findex.php%3Fboard%3D1.0&title=Kymco%20Links&txt=http%3A%2F%2Fedj.net%2F2stroke%2Fjennings%2F

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_140358008985410&key=bcfea0fd476a8a822a6a6ba786ff02e1&libId=c36b6059-fb34-40c2-b82a-70dc2ef64660&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kymcoforum.com%2Findex.php%3Ftopic%3D495.15&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.datafan.com%2FTunersHandbook%2F2-strokefiltered.html&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kymcoforum.com%2Findex.php%3Fboard%3D1.0&title=Kymco%20Links&txt=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.datafan.com%2FTunersHandbook%2F2-strokefiltered.html

They both explain how important a matched pipe is to a 2t engine. The pipe actually forces a sound wave back into the exhaust port to increase compression, and deliver more unburnt fuel to the Ign charge. Simply removing the washer in the OEM pipe is a huge gain for the engine.

[BettinANDlosing]

The 2013 like 2t does not have a washer, they put the stupid turbulence pipe in instead. The newest batch of '14s have a washer added for more restriction. Do you have a local dealer that does strictly Kymco or is it a cycle shop that does scooters? If you don't want to fuss with welding and stuff and want a stock sounding scooter have your dealer order you a early style people 50 muffler (2006 or before) It has no cat or restriction and works awesome with a 70cc kit. It'll be about the same price as a cheap tuned pipe like the Leo zxr but without the noise if that's what your going for. It looks slightly cooler than the stock Like exhaust too. I've heard great things about the Malossi sport kid but don't like how they are cast iron, we've had great luck with the dual ring Airsal sport kits, great low-mid power. Don't expect a time machine as far as to speed without getting a tuned pipe, but you'll have great hill climb power and take off. If your doing a kit and carb you might as well get a variator to control all that power more reliably. Also what zombie said before, sign up for an account at SPI and email/call Louie to get a pretty good discount on parts, I just ordered a bunch for my zuma.

[zombie]

I like all your posts B&L. It's great having a dealer mechanic here.

I have to respectfully dis-agree (I know... It's a first)
The Airsol kits suck... The thing I don't like is the plated cylinder. Every one of them that has come to my shop has had the same issue. Chipped plating around the edge of any one of the ports causing low compression.

They also appear to have different deck heights, and squish bands for the same kit.

I advocate chamfering the edges (all of them) inside a cylinder, ans same w/ the piston. I actually back bevel the bottom of the piston skirt to force cylinder wall oil up towards the bottom of the rings. Problem w/ plated cylinders is if you do chamfer it you void the warranty (if any at all) and actually create a weak spot that can/will chip off. If you Don't chamfer you will wear the rings out faster, create MORE heat, and Chip off plating.

It's a catch 22 w/ plated kits.

I live out here in the 100*f Pan handle of Florida. My Malossi sport lasted 3+ years w/ all sorts of home made pistons/heads/pipes  i eventually wore the bore out to 49mm before I was done w/ it . I even ran it as a stroker for some months before I trash binned it.

I thought the Cast Iron was fine. I never had any problem related to that. It did a steady 55 cruise, and 62-64 tops in most any combination of parts. With the stock gearing it spun out @ 12K rpm but made the most power @8-9K rpm.

35 cents worth...

[BettinANDlosing]

Damn that's not bad at all, like I said I have only had one Malossi kit and I destroyed it due to crank issues haha. What tier of Malossi kit was that one you mentioned? Two ring I take it? I'm currently trying to find the best match for what to use on my prebug. Torque oriented build.

[Berzerker1965]

Thanks for all the informion you guys are great. Helping me set up my scooter and saving me money?
I am speachless.

Here is the planned set up so far.

70 cc BBK kit
Dell Orta PHBG 19mm AS carb
?? pilot jet
96 main jet
Polini variator
Polini clutch kit
7.5 rollers
2000rpm contra spring
Stock exhaust pipe

I'm looking for hill climbing/ wind fighting power more than speed. Reliability is a factor as well.
I read the 70 BBK thread last week and I believe that it said a #96 main jet was good. Any suggestions
on the jetting would be helpful. I picked the 7.5 rollers after reading scooter Mavin's thread.

I am about 210lbs and would like a quick take off speed. I'm using the scooter for commuting, so a 35-40 mph cruising speed would be optimal.

Once again thank you. You guys are a huge help.

[BettinANDlosing]

I'll post pictures of what I have here at the shop, but you will want to upgrade to the old style intake manifold too, larger diameter and better oil passageway. Sounds like it'll be a nice setup. I love how this Forum people can agree to disagree, and I have never seen one "argument" on any thread here. Most other forums people rage at each other and that won't help anyone. I'm a fan of varying opinions, that's what keeps fresh info flowing, but when people just flame each other to prove themselves right that just gums up this awesome platform we call the internet.

[BettinANDlosing]

We sell the "old style" carb and intake setup as a kit from my shop. If you want PM me and I can get you details on how much $ and the differences between this and the new style carbs and intakes. It's a direct replacement and on a stock bike will take you from 40mph indicated to 45-50 indicated. Great combo with a kit too.

[zombie]

The malossi jug I had was the cast iron "sport kit"  # M.317200.

I think it is the same part number for most of the Kymco 2t's. Jetting is a guessing game so a handful of jets is mandatory. I have run everything from an 88 thru to 147 with that jug. I would get one each of 90/95/100/105/110/1115. Pick the best jet from that set, and then buy the few in between to really dial it in.

start rich, and work toward lean. Find the one that allows the bike to run, and avoid the jet size leaner. Running rich during break in actually helps. You will also want to add about one ounce of 2t oil to a full tank of fuel during the first tank of gas/breakin. Once it is broken in you can go back to jetting one or two jets down from the rich one. Steps of two this time... Not five. Say the 100 runs but is rich... Go to 98, instead of 95. You'll have a pile of leftover jets but so do all of us.

[BettinANDlosing]

We sell the "old style" carb and intake setup as a kit from my shop. If you want PM me and I can get you details on how much $ and the differences between this and the new style carbs and intakes. It's a direct replacement and on a stock bike will take you from 40mph indicated to 45-50 indicated.