Author Topic: people 50 2t: is my cdi and/or reed valve bad?  (Read 1853 times)

Bi6foot666

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people 50 2t: is my cdi and/or reed valve bad?
« on: July 16, 2014, 02:59:39 PM »
i am new to the whole doing my own work on my sccot. now that i got the people 50 2t ive been just figuring it out. i need to know how i can tell if my reed is bad and how i can tell if my cdi box is bad? someone help!?!?

zombie

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Re: people 50 2t: is my cdi and/or reed valve bad?
« Reply #1 on: July 16, 2014, 06:40:46 PM »
Start with what is wrong. When was the last time it ran?


No start I assume... Do a compression test first off. Ace Hardware sells a good tester. 120PSI or better is needed for the bike to run.
next check for spark, and fuel in both the carb, and on the spark plug.

Check these, and post back. The only reeds I have ever seen go bad/leak/break were in a 500HP Mercury outboard that ran expansion chamber exhausts. Yours are fine.

"They have nothing in their whole imperial arsenal that can break the spirit of one Irishman who doesn't want to be broken."   Bobby Sands...

BettinANDlosing

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Re: people 50 2t: is my cdi and/or reed valve bad?
« Reply #2 on: July 17, 2014, 02:11:20 AM »
I've seen people 50's with over 50000 km on orij. Reeds. If you just got it, one more thing to add to zombies list is carb clean. I clean the carb on every used bike I get.
2002 Kymco B&W 300; MRP 78MM "300CC", Naraku cam, Yoshimura rS3 exhaust, 17g Sliders, Yellow torque spring drilled airbox, stock carb #115 main #40 pj.

2001 "Yamaha" Zuma AKA MBK Booster; MHR OverRange, Dellorto 19mm BHBG, Polini "big" intake, RS-3 Rear shock, Stock cylinder.

Bi6foot666

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Re: people 50 2t: is my cdi and/or reed valve bad?
« Reply #3 on: July 17, 2014, 05:23:03 AM »
Yea ive done the carb thing. The third day after i bought it. I just got it on june 20th. Had 12220k on it. Been riding the hell out of it. Been havin trouble startin to where it kills my battery. I got the reed out and the thing is in tact. At this moment it is not startable. Im replacing every hose. Took the spark plug cover off and noticed 12k of debri right where the spark is. The other day i found that the ignition wire underneath had melted thru. I seen bare grounnd wire. Or negative wire. The wire is still good i wrapped it and put new heatseal on it. Its still in pieces tho. New hoses on friday. I got to find a new fuel filter casing. I broke the fuel line nipple that runs to the carb. This is my 8th scooter in my life and the first one i ever worked on. Im just figuring it out as i go along.

BettinANDlosing

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Re: people 50 2t: is my cdi and/or reed valve bad?
« Reply #4 on: July 17, 2014, 03:24:21 PM »
Yeah if carbon build up bridges the gap no Sparky, no runny. 12xxxk you might want to replace the belt too.
2002 Kymco B&W 300; MRP 78MM "300CC", Naraku cam, Yoshimura rS3 exhaust, 17g Sliders, Yellow torque spring drilled airbox, stock carb #115 main #40 pj.

2001 "Yamaha" Zuma AKA MBK Booster; MHR OverRange, Dellorto 19mm BHBG, Polini "big" intake, RS-3 Rear shock, Stock cylinder.

zombie

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Re: people 50 2t: is my cdi and/or reed valve bad?
« Reply #5 on: July 17, 2014, 04:35:12 PM »
Replace the wire you wrapped up. I'd agree w/ B&L on the belt,  and actually the whole cvt could use some refreshing.

Get a compression tester, and do that before you go any further. If the jets were slightly closed up w/ debris or you had an air leak/whatever you may have no/low compression, and all the monkey doo in the world won't get it running. You can use the kick start for compression testing.
"They have nothing in their whole imperial arsenal that can break the spirit of one Irishman who doesn't want to be broken."   Bobby Sands...

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