My Super 8 headlights are P!$$ING me off!!!

[DMblues01]

Well, it's been about a week and a half since cleaning all the wire connections, and blowing moisture out of a couple of them.
So far, I haven't had a single repeat of the headlight issue. And I've had to ride in rain several days since. I guess from now on, I'll just check the wires whenever I do my oil changes, just to keep them clean and dried out.

So if any other Super 8 owners are having intermittent issues with the headlight, make sure there's no moisture in the connectors.

Duke-

[DMblues01]

Well, it's been about a week and a half since cleaning all the wire connections, and blowing moisture out of a couple of them.
So far, I haven't had a single repeat of the headlight issue. And I've had to ride in rain several days since. I guess from now on, I'll just check the wires whenever I do my oil changes, just to keep them clean and dried out.

So if any other Super 8 owners are having intermittent issues with the headlight, make sure there's no moisture in the connectors.

Duke-

Over 2 weeks since cleaning all the connectors, and the lights still work perfect!
Amazing that something so simple can be the root of such a potentially dangerous headache.
I'm actually sort of shocked that a vehicle designed for road use would use electrical connectors that don't do a better job of sealing out moisture and dirt.
I'm just glad to have seemingly solved the issue.
A mechanic friend of mine suggested using a little dielectric grease on the contacts in the connectors to help keep dirt and moisture from fowling them again. Anyone know if that might be a good idea, or would some simple electrical tape around the connectors be enough to keep them dry?

Duke-

[DMblues01]

Well, after three weeks, we got a good rain storm and the headlights fritzed again.
Had to pull over several times, while returning home, to shut the scoot off and restart to reset the lights. Turned a normally 15-20 minute ride into a 35 minute ride.

At home, I decided to test Pimpy's LCM bypass suggestion. I used a couple of light gauge jumper wires, that I use when wiring on of my guitars, just to see if it worked. And it does!! No auto dim, and the scoot starts and run perfect!
So in the morning, I'm running to the store to get some proper size wires and small plug ends, and run the bypass properly.

Thank you Pimpy1 for posting the photo of how to do the bypass. I should have done that the first day I bought the scooter! I might have avoided a lot of frustration and cursing!

How to direct wire and bypass the light control box. If the key is on the lights are on. Stays bright no matter what RPMs you are turning. No dim lights when coasting down a big hill.

[Chris0381]

So the green, red and brown are just left hanging.

My light are dim but I dont see any fluctuation with my scooter at high or low idle but haven't driven at night yet only at dusk.

[manimal]

This LCM <correction> is it's sole purpose is to drop voltage to the lighting, or is there more too it? Could it's only purpose is to add longevity to the bulbs? Anyone have an answer or clue? Otherwise, the LCM seems pointless.

OTOH, only advantage I can see with the lights dimming at idle / low rpm, is when riding during the day with the brights on, then pull up behind a car at a light or stop, the brights are less blinding <shrug>

In any regard, thanks for posting the bypass tip. It sure will come in handy if I end up with the same issue, or get fed-up of the lights dimming.

[zombie]

The real thing the control does is protect the stator/rectifier. When sitting at a stop light, and running a blinker w/ the headlight on most bikes will have a hard time keeping up w/ the demand, and heat will develop in the stator/rectifier. (idling bike).
This is never really an issue if you keep the rpms up, and the stator charging.
Jumping out the control box is a non issue. That box was/is just an under educated engineers vision of a solution to a problem all bikes have  The best solution is to bypass it, and install LED blinkers w/ an electronic flasher relay.
That will fix everything for 15-20 bucks. You can convert the entire bike to LED's for under 30 bucks.

[manimal]

The real thing the control does is protect the stator/rectifier. When sitting at a stop light, and running a blinker w/ the headlight on most bikes will have a hard time keeping up w/ the demand, and heat will develop in the stator/rectifier. (idling bike).
This is never really an issue if you keep the rpms up, and the stator charging.
Jumping out the control box is a non issue. That box was/is just an under educated engineers vision of a solution to a problem all bikes have  The best solution is to bypass it, and install LED blinkers w/ an electronic flasher relay.
That will fix everything for 15-20 bucks. You can convert the entire bike to LED's for under 30 bucks.

Thanks for the insight!

Forgive me for my laziness, is there a DIY on converting to LED lighting?

This maybe something I may eventually do. Additionally, I have thoughts of removing the exterior turn signal lighting and integrating them within the front cowl and rear tail lamp assembly.

[zombie]

I have relocated the lights on several scooters. It's all the same deal.

Pull one of each bulb, and order the direct replacements or find them at any local auto parts place.
The blinkers work on a capacitor/relay on the current set up. You have to swap the flasher relay for an electronic flasher made for led's
It's a simple swap behind the cowl. Find your flasher by turning on the blinkers, and see if it is a 2 or 3 wire unit. Then just buy the new one, and swap it out.

[DMblues01]

The real thing the control does is protect the stator/rectifier. When sitting at a stop light, and running a blinker w/ the headlight on most bikes will have a hard time keeping up w/ the demand, and heat will develop in the stator/rectifier. (idling bike).
This is never really an issue if you keep the rpms up, and the stator charging.
Jumping out the control box is a non issue. That box was/is just an under educated engineers vision of a solution to a problem all bikes have  The best solution is to bypass it, and install LED blinkers w/ an electronic flasher relay.
That will fix everything for 15-20 bucks. You can convert the entire bike to LED's for under 30 bucks.

Zombie's Back!  All is right with the world!!! 

I think after bypassing the stupid LCM, I'm gonna look at replacing the headlight bulbs with LEDs to reduce the power draw on the stator.
Is there a direct replacement LED headlight bulb to do this, or is it more complicated than that? I know the blinkers need an upgrade to the flasher relay.

Duke-

[zombie]

What's happening DM!

There is NO direct replacement LED for the headlight.  I've had to buy a socket to match the LED bulb.
These are what I've been using... Under 15 bucks

[DMblues01]

Cool. Thanx!
That will be the next project, now that the bipolar headlight situation is getting nipped in the bud!

Duke-

[zombie]

LED's ae one of the best things you can do.
You may never need to replace them for the life of the bike.

Speaking of Bi-polar... My wife called the other day. She just got out of jail (again), and needs a place to stay. Any suggestions???
I told her to go to hell.

[DMblues01]

So the green, red and brown are just left hanging.

My light are dim but I dont see any fluctuation with my scooter at high or low idle but haven't driven at night yet only at dusk.

The other wires to the LCM are just sensor wires that tell it when to switch from half power to full power for the headlights. Once you jump the power wires, and bypass the LCM, the other wires serve no purpose.
I put in the jumper wires, like in Pimpy1's photo, and then I mummified the whole plug harness with electrical tape just to keep water out of it. Then I used a simple zip tie to hold it to the frame, so it doesn't flop around when riding.
I rode around for about 30 minutes today, after doing the bypass, and didn't have a single problem.
I'll let everyone know how it goes after riding to work tonight in the predicted rain storm.

Duke-

[Calothrix]

My wife called the other day. She just got out of jail (again), and needs a place to stay. Any suggestions???

Maybe Axy has a spare room!

[BettinANDlosing]

The other wires to the LCM are just sensor wires that tell it when to switch from half power to full power for the headlights. Once you jump the power wires, and bypass the LCM, the other wires serve no purpose.
I put in the jumper wires, like in Pimpy1's photo, and then I mummified the whole plug harness with electrical tape just to keep water out of it. Then I used a simple zip tie to hold it to the frame, so it doesn't flop around when riding.
I rode around for about 30 minutes today, after doing the bypass, and didn't have a single problem.
I'll let everyone know how it goes after riding to work tonight in the predicted rain storm.

Duke-

Do you have a multimeter ? Check charging voltage at idle to make sure it's over 13v or at VERY minimum no lower than static battery voltage. I'm not a fan of how kymco solved that issue, that cheaped out and made the lights dim instead of giving the bike a better stator.