found these on ebay. thoughts?

[zombie]

The Dyno will tell you exactly NOTHING. It will compare before, and after but nothing about jetting. Plug chops, and butt dynos go a lot further for us.

[BettinANDlosing]

If the dyno shop has a wideband probe and the proper training you'll be able to see if the air fuel ratio is correct for performance. But you won't be able to adjust much with the kymco ecu lol. The computer usually will compensate for an exhaust. Someone in Taiwan might sell a "chip" for the ecu to change fuel map

[donjack]

thanks guys!! I am now wondering if I have done the right thing!!
zombie, please help!! plug chop and butt dyno? change plug and how it feels to me??? is that right??
I went out this morning and she felt and sounded great!!
cheers,
Don.

[zombie]

New plugs are pure white. When you run at ONE throttle position you can look down inside the plug for a dark ring. That ring should be like a coffee color, and in a complete circle.

Short runs, at one throttle position tell you the mix at that set jetting. WOT tells you the main jet, and 1/2 throttle tells you the main/needle setting.

The idle screw setting tells you the idle jet. If it idles best around 2 turns out the jet is fine. More or less turns out tells you if it is too lean or too rich.

Butt Dyno is simply the seat of the pants impression you get. Not very scientific, but it gets the job done, and saves drilling into your header for a proper dyno run. Pluss the 100.00 or so dyno time per hr.

One new plug will tell you what you need to know.

Keep in mind it is colder out now, and air is denser. That leads to leaner mixtures (more air), so I would look for a light coffee color to a dark tan.
Black is too rich, and almost white is too lean.  It's easy stuff as long as you don't mind doing the jetting work (i hate that stuff)

[donjack]

Thanks zombie!! Great insight! I shall hopefully get a new plug from one of our auto stores in the morning.
Just quick question, is it a regular occurrence to have to rejet an engine after fitting a new exhaust??
Cheers,
Don.

[BettinANDlosing]

New plugs are pure white. When you run at ONE throttle position you can look down inside the plug for a dark ring. That ring should be like a coffee color, and in a complete circle.

Short runs, at one throttle position tell you the mix at that set jetting. WOT tells you the main jet, and 1/2 throttle tells you the main/needle setting.

The idle screw setting tells you the idle jet. If it idles best around 2 turns out the jet is fine. More or less turns out tells you if it is too lean or too rich.

Butt Dyno is simply the seat of the pants impression you get. Not very scientific, but it gets the job done, and saves drilling into your header for a proper dyno run. Pluss the 100.00 or so dyno time per hr.

One new plug will tell you what you need to know.

Keep in mind it is colder out now, and air is denser. That leads to leaner mixtures (more air), so I would look for a light coffee color to a dark tan.
Black is too rich, and almost white is too lean.  It's easy stuff as long as you don't mind doing the jetting work (i hate that stuff)

Dude this bike has FUEL INJECTION!!!!! Stop confusing the man!
DonJack you don't need to do anything, your computer will make the necessary changes in fueling if it even needs to. Also the computer "learns" so the bike will get closer and closer to running perfectly the more it "sees" where the Air/fuel ratio is. Wouldn't hurt to look at the plug, but you won't be able to change anything anyway.

[zombie]

I got to stop taking crack...

Put a carb on the bike, and everything I said applies.

[donjack]

bettin, that's put my mind at ease, thank you!!
zombie, what were you thinking? scaring the c**p out of me like that!! leave the crack alone!!  made me laugh tho' about putting a carb on!!
cheers,
Don.

[zombie]

I had to recover some how...  Don't look out your window.

[windwheeler]

Put a carb on the bike, and everything I said applies.

  LOL!!!    ...and, you get a smoother acceleration curve!   My GrandVista 250 with the carb runs smoother/more constant during acceleration than my 300i.  I have not seen a dyno graph, but I bet there are spikes and valleys during acceleration on the 300i.  A reprogramming of the eprom with a better Fi curve by some wizard would be great.

[zombie]

Mercruiser makes a diagnostic computer for the 350 chevy small block that gives you complete control over the mapping. This is something that even the chevy tool can not do.
I am curious if there is another tool that will re-map the Kymco ecm. Perhaps a dongle that you can hook up to a lap top, and gain access.

[BettinANDlosing]

Hey lets make one for the kymco EFI and make millions haha

[zombie]

Well maybe a few hundred... Supply/demand.

[windwheeler]

Like I said in another thread, I believe from 2013 on KYMCO changed the program in the computer.  But they were not honest  to start with and denied the problem, so now they don't want to admit that there WAS actually an "unclean curve" related to the the earlier (US) D/T's. 

The reason why there is good evidence to me, there was a post here from a member about his hesitation problem on his brand new D/T300i , and the member received, after not giving up, a "new computer".  He told me personally, "it is all resolved now"....  Guess what, it wasn't a defective computer, the new computer has an updated new program.

[mamo]

Careful!
I bought Delkevic, but was not able to attach it.
The inside diameter of Linkpipe is 33mm, and outer diameter of the exhaust is absolutely impossible for 37mm.

It is the product of a really bad maker.
I did not do the user support at all either and returned goods against ebay/paypal.
I confirm the contents of the PDF file and should see what kind of state it is in.
http://www.2shared.com/document/jDf1c6XF/Delkevic.html