Time for a new auto bystarter

[MooseMax]

The one on my People 250 doesn't extend any more when fed 12 volts.  A new Kymco bystarter is costly ($60), so i'm thinking of using a generic one for 250cc scooters, like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/250cc-Chinese-Scooter-Electronic-Choke-Electric-Enrichment-Fits-172mm-CF-MOTO-/380843605507

Are all bystarters for 250cc bikes pretty much a universal fit? 

If it means anything, mine has a brass collar about 9 mm long, and the needle is about 11 mm.  Two wires.

[TLRam1]

I don't know the answer but every time I try to retrofit, it is just easier getting what fits and get back to problem free riding. The one for my Riva is 250 plus, so 60 dollars is not that much.

[SudTayTongJakGun]

when are you do this since.

[zombie]

They are exactly the same part/made in the same factory.

Be SURE to use some motor oil to lube those tiny "O" rings. Just a drop from the dip stick is fine. The "O" ring will tear if you don't

[MooseMax]

Update - 

I couldn't see spending $60 for something that helps for 60 seconds, so i tried the $10 bystarter - it seems to be working fine.  The only problem is the old retaining clip doesn't fit (the flanges on the bystarter are too short to secure the clip).  So i improvised a mounting bracket with a paper clip, cable ties, and some other parts.  MacGyver would be proud. 

[BettinANDlosing]

That bystarter looks wrong for your engine..... It's too tall, i think they sent you the wrong one.

[zombie]

Wrong one. but what the hell... as long as it works. Take the xtra 50 bucks, and drink away any miss-givings.

[BettinANDlosing]

Yeah haha that's really all that matters. I have one for the S250, only difference is the connector. I'd sell it for $25 shipped. All you have to do it switch the connector.

[MooseMax]

Thanks for sending your bystarter, B&L.  I still have the same problem i had with the old bystarter, so i think something else is wrong.  When the engine is nicely warmed up (riding more than 5 minutes) it hesitates & stumbles accelerating from idle, and loses power below 10-15 mph.  At higher speeds it's fine.  The low-speed screw is 2.5 turns out (the manual recommends 2.5 +/- 0.5).  Any idea where the problem lies?

[BettinANDlosing]

Thanks for sending your bystarter, B&L.  I still have the same problem i had with the old bystarter, so i think something else is wrong.  When the engine is nicely warmed up (riding more than 5 minutes) it hesitates & stumbles accelerating from idle, and loses power below 10-15 mph.  At higher speeds it's fine.  The low-speed screw is 2.5 turns out (the manual recommends 2.5 +/- 0.5).  Any idea where the problem lies?

Darn!!! Does the bike ride good when totally cold? Could be, clogged air filter making the bike too rich. List what you have tried so far and how many KMS you S250 has on it.

[zombie]

the 2.5 turns is just a guide line. Not the rule.

Turn that smaller screw (mix screw) either way till you get the highest rpm. Then adjust the rpm w/ the larger screw. Keep repeating that till you have the BEST ilde. That is the proper setting. Then you turn the screw 1/4 turn counter clockwise. That will slightly enrich the circuit.

See how that goes. before buying more parts.

[MooseMax]

It's a regular People 250, not the S250.  It has at least 10k kilometers (broken speedo cable when i bought it). 

It runs fine when the engine is cold.  Haven't tested it in air temps below 55 degrees.  It seems worse when the engine is very warm, like when the radiator fan comes on.

I tried turning the low-speed screw 1 turn either way and idle didn't increase.  Idle slowed when i turned it in. 

I don't know when these air filters need replacing, but i ordered a new one.  The old one is below..

I haven't done much else.  I didn't take apart the carb.  The hoses seem in good condition, no cracks or kinks.

Could it be a bad spark plug cap? The old plug that came with the bike had a broken ceramic tip and the plug cap is chipped in a few spots.. almost as if it was hammered from the side (!).   I trimmed 1/2 inch from the plug wire while i was down there.

[zombie]

well the filter is pretty dirty, and a cap for the plug is cheap.

when you turn the screw counterclockwise keep going till the idle slows down. Then go back clockwise till it increases to it's highest. Then back 1/4 turn. See how that does...

If it runs good cold it may be the bystarter is working, and adding enough fuel for it to run. That indicates a lean mix when hot. Perhaps a vacuum leak on or under the intake?
Torn diaphragm in the carb?
Bad or clogged main jet?
Sticking petcock?

Perhaps a bad coil or stator? sometimes they will falter when hot... Same for the cdi.

Lots of maybes. Keep chipping away at the small stuff.   

[BettinANDlosing]

Everything Zombie said.
That filter is toaste, toss the new one in if you haven't yet. The Spec is 2.5 turns out but I've always found they work better at around 3 turns out. In fact my B&W factory setting is 3 turns out, has the identical carb to a People 250, the S250 carb is slightly different. I thought you had an s250 because you were asking about s250 parts!! You should open the carb and do a deep clean, not all that much to screw up just take your time and remember where everything goes, or draw a picture or whatever helps you remember. I suspect the slow jet is clogged, you have to use a very very small wire to clean it. I use one strand off a shifter cable for vespa/ stella style scoot. Works great. Or you can buy a can of the carb clean juice and soak it in there overnight. Almost every problem like yours roots from a dirty carb. Once reason why carbs are "worse". IMO having to clean parts is WAYYYYYYYYYY better than buying new throttle bodies, injectors etc. Have you done other routine maint stuff? Make sure valves are at .04mm, changed plug? DPR7EIX worked great for my 250. Valves would make sense, if one is too tight it'll be WAYY too tight when really hot and cause poor performance. The P250 is a kinda tight to adjust the valves, not too bad. You have to take the valve cover off with a friend sitting on the bike to get enough room, then it's easy. If I were you I would order a NGK Iridium DPR7EIX and do the valves and clean the carb. I would be surprised if it needed more than that @ 10k KMs. I've seen customers with over 50,000km on their P250, great motor. My buddy also has a 2005 silver P250 which we replaced every last plastic panel and made it like new. Anyway keep us posted, that way we can all figure it out together yay!!!

[zombie]

Just a quick thought... Pull out that bystarter, and turn on the key. It has to move 4mm at least, and it takes about 45 seconds or a bit more.
Also measure the leghth of the old part cold. Compare that to the cold length of the new one. (Just the metal plunger)
It may be the choke +12v/gnd is bad or the parts do NOT interchange due to plunger length.
Just a thought...