Author Topic: HOT engine valve check  (Read 5916 times)

Stig / Major Tom

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HOT engine valve check
« on: December 05, 2014, 02:38:47 AM »
Going to check my valve lash on my day off, tomorrow...but decided to do the tear down as soon as I got home this evening....on a hot engine. (sort of-- it is 33degrees F out there )
Just for the heck of it I checked the valve gap on the hot engine.
Tomorrow I will check it again when the engine is cold (@30 degrees F). The valves are to be checked only on a cold engine. (over night is best) So, if you take your scooter in to the dealer for service and a valve adjustment is part of the order - they should not give it back to you in an hour or two!
For those who'd like a refresher...or have yet to check your valves, I took some pictures:
Remove seat bucket (w/seat attached to it!)
Remove battery cover and cover with heavy cloth.
Remove center cover to expose valve cover.
(Disconnect spark plug cap, for safety.)
Remove plug on fan cover to expose timing mark ("T" and a line, nearby)
Remove rubber vacuum line from valve cover.
Remove four 10mm bolts on valve cover (if you forget where they went - match bolt length to casting depth on the valve cover)
Rotate engine clock-wise with a 14mm socket on white nylon fan nut (look in there, you'll see it...I do not remove the spark plug to make it easier to turn engine over: engine is not that powerful and I don't like re-threading that little plug too many times, to avoid cross-threading it)
Align "T" with the notch and align two hash lines on chain sprocket with edge of engine ...if correct you can grab the adjustment nuts and feel slight movement when you pull/push them. If NO movement...rotate engine 360 again and try again. Do not adjust anything if you do not feel a bit of movement in each valve adjusting nut because you have not found top-dead-center, necessary to adjust the valve lash.

When I checked the valves on this hot engine I got .oo5 on the intake and .oo4 on the exhaust valve. The correct setting is .oo4 inches - or 0.10 mm
Insert feeler gauge blade. Loosen the lock nut then turn center screw to get proper light drag on the blade. Snug lock nut, if still good - do the other valve. Rotate engine to TDC and check them both again.
I reuse the valve cover gasket if it looks good and add a small bit of heavier gear oil to the moving parts before replacing the cover. Tighten bolts gently in a X pattern...do not overtighten these alloy parts. Just snug.
Replace vacuum rubber hose onto valve cover.
Start the engine after replacing plug cap. Check for leaks around the valve cover...if good- - button it up. (replace center cover, battery cover and seat bucket)
























I use 4 feeler blades: .oo4"  ,+ and - , and use them to check my valves. If the .oo5 fits....I keep adjusting until only the .oo4 fits, etc.
Stig
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CROSSBOLT

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Re: HOT engine valve check
« Reply #1 on: December 05, 2014, 03:19:32 PM »
Well written and easy to follow, Stig!

Karl
Karl

Three motorcycles 1960-1977 (restored a 1955 BSA)
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nushipwright

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Re: HOT engine valve check
« Reply #2 on: December 05, 2014, 03:29:26 PM »
I can only join Crossbolt, very nice Stig. Now if only I could find something similar for the DT300.....
“Sometimes I wonder whether the world is being run by smart people who are putting us on or by imbeciles who really mean it.”  - Mark Twain
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zombie

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Re: HOT engine valve check
« Reply #3 on: December 05, 2014, 05:45:19 PM »
Nice work Stig!

You are a champ!
"They have nothing in their whole imperial arsenal that can break the spirit of one Irishman who doesn't want to be broken."   Bobby Sands...

Stig / Major Tom

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Re: HOT engine valve check
« Reply #4 on: December 05, 2014, 07:21:57 PM »
COLD ENGINE REPORT:

Both needed adjustment when I checked them this morning (cold engine)
Intake was at .oo5+, exhaust was tight on .oo4" feeler blade..
Snugged the one - loosened the other ....for a nice slide @.oo4".
Ran it without battery cover to check for leaks.....noted that my cover really does snug down the battery....vibrates and makes noise without it.( and I have a oversized battery in there ...noted that it is the same battery as OEM in my new Forza)
Stig
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Stig / Major Tom

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Re: HOT engine valve check
« Reply #5 on: December 05, 2014, 07:30:00 PM »
I can only join Crossbolt, very nice Stig. Now if only I could find something similar for the DT300.....
CYCLEPEDIA on-line manual?
Mine, for the Like200i is pretty good.
Cost about 20 minutes of dealer's shop time.
Stig
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And, I'm feeling a little peculiar.

zombie

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Re: HOT engine valve check
« Reply #6 on: December 05, 2014, 07:32:16 PM »
I've posted that I adjust my valves to "0" lash hot. When cold I usually get .02-.03mm on either valve.
That's quite a bit more difference than you recorded.
"They have nothing in their whole imperial arsenal that can break the spirit of one Irishman who doesn't want to be broken."   Bobby Sands...

TroutBum

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Re: HOT engine valve check
« Reply #7 on: December 06, 2014, 05:39:05 AM »
Nice report Stig. Thanks for sharing.

vespbretta

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Re: HOT engine valve check
« Reply #8 on: December 06, 2014, 10:18:10 AM »
Extremely nice work Stig! You are an amazing guy. Thanks. You should consider writing Workshop Manuals for Kymco in your pension after you retired. Beside starting a new career as a high quality photographer. 8) :D

The only thing I strongly miss in all kymco workshop manuals are the torque values for all the bolts, screws and nuts. Especially where we deal with the relatively soft aluminium...
"snug" is a relatively open definition for interpretation. And a snug of a strong hand is probably different from a weak hand...

What I have found throughout my reasearch in the web:

Valve Cover ~ 9NM
Spark Plug ~ 10-12NM
Valve Adjuster Screw Lock Nut ~ 5-6NM

But I don´t know if these values are correct - give or take?
Anyone out there who has all the correct torque values for the like 200i to post in an extra thread?
Cheers,
Robo

Kymco Like LX 200i white/blue 2014; FACO Rear Crash Bars; Kymco Front Crash Bar; Puig Windshield Traffic;  Shido Battery LTX9-BS LION; 13gr. Dr. Pulley sliders and sliding pieces; Throttle control; Full synth. 10W-50 Motor- & Synth Gearoil; modified Topcase; Italian Badges and Stickers

zombie

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Re: HOT engine valve check
« Reply #9 on: December 06, 2014, 02:35:53 PM »
Torque is determined by the fastener, and not the application (with very few exceptions).
There are no exceptions on our bikes.

Just look up "fastener torque values"
http://www.portlandbolt.com/technicalinformation/bolt-torque-chart.html
"They have nothing in their whole imperial arsenal that can break the spirit of one Irishman who doesn't want to be broken."   Bobby Sands...

Stig / Major Tom

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Re: HOT engine valve check
« Reply #10 on: December 06, 2014, 02:43:59 PM »
Extremely nice work Stig! You are an amazing guy. Thanks. You should consider writing Workshop Manuals for Kymco in your pension after you retired. Beside starting a new career as a high quality photographer. 8) :D

The only thing I strongly miss in all kymco workshop manuals are the torque values for all the bolts, screws and nuts. Especially where we deal with the relatively soft aluminium...
"snug" is a relatively open definition for interpretation. And a snug of a strong hand is probably different from a weak hand...

What I have found throughout my reasearch in the web:

Valve Cover ~ 9NM
Spark Plug ~ 10-12NM
Valve Adjuster Screw Lock Nut ~ 5-6NM

But I don´t know if these values are correct - give or take?
Anyone out there who has all the correct torque values for the like 200i to post in an extra thread?

Here you go Robo.....(getting any riding in on your pretty LIKE over there? Pictures?!)
posted specs here ---
Stig  http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=13139.0
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And, I'm feeling a little peculiar.

BettinANDlosing

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Re: HOT engine valve check
« Reply #11 on: December 06, 2014, 07:36:32 PM »
Extremely nice work Stig! You are an amazing guy. Thanks. You should consider writing Workshop Manuals for Kymco in your pension after you retired. Beside starting a new career as a high quality photographer. 8) :D

The only thing I strongly miss in all kymco workshop manuals are the torque values for all the bolts, screws and nuts. Especially where we deal with the relatively soft aluminium...
"snug" is a relatively open definition for interpretation. And a snug of a strong hand is probably different from a weak hand...

What I have found throughout my reasearch in the web:

Valve Cover ~ 9NM
Spark Plug ~ 10-12NM
Valve Adjuster Screw Lock Nut ~ 5-6NM

But I don´t know if these values are correct - give or take?
Anyone out there who has all the correct torque values for the like 200i to post in an extra thread?

If you get the OEM paperback manual they have every last bolt torque, as u recall cycle pedia is pretty good at listing torque too.
2002 Kymco B&W 300; MRP 78MM "300CC", Naraku cam, Yoshimura rS3 exhaust, 17g Sliders, Yellow torque spring drilled airbox, stock carb #115 main #40 pj.

2001 "Yamaha" Zuma AKA MBK Booster; MHR OverRange, Dellorto 19mm BHBG, Polini "big" intake, RS-3 Rear shock, Stock cylinder.

vespbretta

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Re: HOT engine valve check
« Reply #12 on: December 07, 2014, 06:40:16 PM »
Torque is determined by the fastener, and not the application (with very few exceptions).
There are no exceptions on our bikes.

Just look up "fastener torque values"
http://www.portlandbolt.com/technicalinformation/bolt-torque-chart.html

Sorry Zombie, I neither understand what you mean in your first sentence, nor do I understand the bolt torque chart in your second sentence.

So how is international understandability for joe sixpack defined and determined?  ;)
Cheers,
Robo

Kymco Like LX 200i white/blue 2014; FACO Rear Crash Bars; Kymco Front Crash Bar; Puig Windshield Traffic;  Shido Battery LTX9-BS LION; 13gr. Dr. Pulley sliders and sliding pieces; Throttle control; Full synth. 10W-50 Motor- & Synth Gearoil; modified Topcase; Italian Badges and Stickers

vespbretta

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Re: HOT engine valve check
« Reply #13 on: December 07, 2014, 06:56:09 PM »
If you get the OEM paperback manual they have every last bolt torque, as u recall cycle pedia is pretty good at listing torque too.

Yes, B&L. I searched through several manuals, online, offline, paperbacks and so on and so foth, but the more I researched the web, the more different values for the same bolt I got....
Kymcos weak point is that they don´t have and don´t offer proper workshopmanuals, and most the others throughout the web go the easy way and "copy and paste" Kymcos faults into a new manual....
Some other use more fantasy and vary the values here and there.... What´s better? I leave it up to you.
Cyclepedia is also not the holy bible. More a copy shop.
Cheers,
Robo

Kymco Like LX 200i white/blue 2014; FACO Rear Crash Bars; Kymco Front Crash Bar; Puig Windshield Traffic;  Shido Battery LTX9-BS LION; 13gr. Dr. Pulley sliders and sliding pieces; Throttle control; Full synth. 10W-50 Motor- & Synth Gearoil; modified Topcase; Italian Badges and Stickers

vespbretta

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Re: HOT engine valve check
« Reply #14 on: December 07, 2014, 07:16:34 PM »
Here you go Robo.....(getting any riding in on your pretty LIKE over there? Pictures?!)
posted specs here ---
Stig  http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=13139.0

Of course I ride my scoot.  ;) :) 2500km this summer/autumn.
I am not a winter driver any more. Still need my crown jewelery.  :o
More Pics next Spring.
Cheers,
Robo

Kymco Like LX 200i white/blue 2014; FACO Rear Crash Bars; Kymco Front Crash Bar; Puig Windshield Traffic;  Shido Battery LTX9-BS LION; 13gr. Dr. Pulley sliders and sliding pieces; Throttle control; Full synth. 10W-50 Motor- & Synth Gearoil; modified Topcase; Italian Badges and Stickers

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