LOL... You forgot to install the link...
The flywheel, and crank taper are obviously produced on separate machines. Those machines have tolerances so every part will be slightly different.
To burnish the tapers you need to start with 120 grit emory paper, and wrap it around your taper so it fits w/ an end to end but joint. They can not overlap but there can be a slight gap.
I use spray glue to hold that on the crank taper. Next get that paper soaked w/ oil, and install the flywheel by hand. You need to spin it slowly in both directions while pushing it against the crank. Spin it four or five times in each direction, and re apply oil.
Do this until you see the inner taper is completely hatched all the way around. NO bare spots.
Then reverse the paper to the flywheel so it will now hatch the crank. Repeat the process until the crank is completely hatched.
step down to 600 grit, and again w/ 1000 grit. For the final hatch, rubbing compound... It's a paste.
The crank, and flywheel should look like glass, and they will fit so well that you don't need a key to retain them. The key is now just a guide for timing alignment, and those "weak" looking offset keys will hold forever.
To remove the flywheel will be a BITCH unless you strike the end of the puller. ONE sharp rap will allow the wheel to pop off.
Those keys create 2 or 3 degrees of advance. In reality you want around 6-7 degrees.
You HAVE to run premium fuel, and be SURE your jetting is rich enough. Borderline lean jetting will pre detonate, and melt valves.
Like B&L posted... cut the stator plate AND the pulsar coil so you can move them between 2, and 4mm counter clockwise.
Every bike is a little different but like I posted before 2mm was the "sweet spot" for mine (around 5-6* more initial, and 5-8 total at 10k rpm).
The OEM timing I believe is 18-22* initial, and 0-2* total at 10K rpm.
This mod makes 23-28* initial, and 5-8 total.
PREMIUM FUEL + PROPER JETTING!!!
