Auto choke and friends

[Triesandluth]

I had been having problems with hard starts and dying at idle or steady increased rpms after wot. I checked the choke with a battery and it works.  I checked the bullet connectors its connected to.  With key on,  .01~.02
With running,  .01~.05
Decided to wire it to my oil level sensor which got a steady 12v+ reading.  Ran it with no high idle or dying at stops.  Decided to wire up a few led running lights.  When wired to the old choke leads they worked! But intensity changed with rpm. Looked great but toasted the battery while sitting at a stop light with blinkers and brake light. 
I'm going to unplug them.  Now,  does the varied voltage that the original choke wires have play an important part in the voltage system?  Maybe a sign of dying stator? I figure that the changed connection shouldn't have a problem but I don't want to fry anything major.

[CROSSBOLT]

I don't understand, "with key on, .01~.02 With running, .01~.05."

Karl

[BettinANDlosing]

That's pretty strange, it should be a constant voltage. In not 100% on the super 9 but most of the other Kymcos have a resistor in the choke circuit that might be bad in yours. Otherwise just leave it powered off the oil sensor. Check your stator with a volt meter, when running your battery voltage should be 13+ at idle and 13.5-14.5 when revved.

[Triesandluth]

It's wires are very very well wrapped,  so the bit I cut back I didn't find any resistors,  etc.  I will check further. 
I'm afraid that the constant key on power caused me great pain getting it started this mornin. Maybe it lets the needle drop too soon?
I'm either over thinking this or something,  but if I touch the spark plug wire and cap while it's idling,  it dies immediately.  Not sure what to think of that.  I'm going to swap it with the ngk coil and wire from my other scoot to see if that changes anything.
Where would be the best place to test the stator?

[Triesandluth]

Oh,  sorry Karl/crossbolt. I meant volts,  .01  .02. I tested with a little rev and got up to .2 volts. 

[Triesandluth]

I just did the smart thing and googled an ignition system test routine,  starting at the stator,  ending at the plug. 

[BettinANDlosing]

You want to check battery voltage, on the battery terminals with a volt meter. Also sounds like you need a new spark plug cap.

[Triesandluth]

My battery,  even though it's not the strongest anymore,  reads 12.35v or so if I remember correctly,  when off.  I believe 13+v at idle.  I may have been using DC to test the auto choke circuit,  so I'm going to check again tomorrow and pay better attention.  And getting a new cap.

[Triesandluth]

Ha! I unscrewed the plug wire from both the cap and coil.  Both seemed extremely beat out,  barely any copper showing.  I trimmed the ends,  reconnected,  and voila! Barely a second on the starter and she fired right up! Even at 36° . No dying at idle,  no dying when fondling the wire.
I don't want to assume that this is the solution to all of my problems.  I feel as if I learned something today....

[Triesandluth]

And yeah,  my voltage at battery is thirteen and over

[BettinANDlosing]

Nice, yeah a bad cap will cause all kind of ghost problems!!! Glad that seems to have fixed it!