Author Topic: question about variator nut removal  (Read 7798 times)

boo

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question about variator nut removal
« on: December 27, 2014, 08:54:28 PM »
The shop where I bought my GT overtightened, and or used Loctite on my variator nut. They replaced a leaking oil seal under warranty.
Some time back I tried to loosen it so I could try some Dr Pulley sliders.
Long story short, I could not get the nut loose.
Have since picked up a two foot long cheater bar to use over my power bar.

Here is my question: Will it hurt anything if I use a propane torch to heat the nut and hopefully break the seal to remove the variator nut?.
I suspect they used Red Loctite.

Have about 8,800 miles now and plan to replace air filter, drive belt, new variator nut, and install Dr Pulley sliders at 12,000 miles.
« Last Edit: December 27, 2014, 08:59:51 PM by boo »
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zombie

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Re: question about variator nut removal
« Reply #1 on: December 27, 2014, 10:34:39 PM »
The torch will be fine IF you heat it just past hand hot. You only want to melt the compound, and avoid softening the crank end.

I would do it but I would also hold out for an impact driver. I swore we didn't need them but I have long since changed my mind.

Worse comes to worse... A new crank, and gasket set is under 50 bucks on Ebay.
"They have nothing in their whole imperial arsenal that can break the spirit of one Irishman who doesn't want to be broken."   Bobby Sands...

BettinANDlosing

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Re: question about variator nut removal
« Reply #2 on: December 27, 2014, 11:20:35 PM »
+2 on the impact gun. It's the way MEN take apart the variator. You can get a cheap harbor freight electric. I spent $300 on a SnapOn about 8 years ago and it's still going strong.
2002 Kymco B&W 300; MRP 78MM "300CC", Naraku cam, Yoshimura rS3 exhaust, 17g Sliders, Yellow torque spring drilled airbox, stock carb #115 main #40 pj.

2001 "Yamaha" Zuma AKA MBK Booster; MHR OverRange, Dellorto 19mm BHBG, Polini "big" intake, RS-3 Rear shock, Stock cylinder.

boo

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I used
« Reply #3 on: December 27, 2014, 11:52:59 PM »
an electric and air impact wrench and nut would not budge.
It is a tight son of a bitch.
Guess I will try heat first. If that doesn't work i'll cut it off with a Dremel tool.
Really, really do not want to damage my crank threads.
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blue

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Re: question about variator nut removal
« Reply #4 on: December 28, 2014, 12:08:10 AM »
Lefty loosey.righty tighty.

BettinANDlosing

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Re: question about variator nut removal
« Reply #5 on: December 28, 2014, 01:15:01 AM »
Take it back to the shop and tell them they messed it up, better to do this than F*** up your crank. Let them do that lol.
2002 Kymco B&W 300; MRP 78MM "300CC", Naraku cam, Yoshimura rS3 exhaust, 17g Sliders, Yellow torque spring drilled airbox, stock carb #115 main #40 pj.

2001 "Yamaha" Zuma AKA MBK Booster; MHR OverRange, Dellorto 19mm BHBG, Polini "big" intake, RS-3 Rear shock, Stock cylinder.

zombie

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Re: question about variator nut removal
« Reply #6 on: December 28, 2014, 04:26:37 AM »
I'm surprised an impact that could not budge the nut, didn't shear off the threaded end of the crank.

Maybe B&L is right in suggesting you run it by that shop. It's a coin flip now as to weather the not will come off with/without the end of the crank.

If that coin lands on edge, everything will be fine. 99.999:1 shot.

If it is red LokTite tho, the heat will melt it well below 300* f. edit that... I just found this...

"Here it is from the horses mouth. The Loctite corp..

Q: How can I remove a fastener that is "permanently" locked in?

A: The application of heat is needed to remove a fastener that can't be removed with a hand tool. Temperatures of 325F and above is needed to break down a standard anaerobic, 500F for high temperature Anaerobics. A heat gun or propane torch is commonly used to do this process, and careful disassembly should occur while parts are still hot. Once apart, and cooled, use methylene chloride (Chisel #79040) to remove cured excess material. Always wipe down the fasteners with clean up solvent to remove the wax film that Chisel leaves on the surface."
"They have nothing in their whole imperial arsenal that can break the spirit of one Irishman who doesn't want to be broken."   Bobby Sands...

BettinANDlosing

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Re: question about variator nut removal
« Reply #7 on: December 28, 2014, 06:01:51 AM »
This may be a dumb question, but you are trying to take it off counter clockwise right? Just checking..... I've never had a nut with red loc tite be That Hard to get off .
2002 Kymco B&W 300; MRP 78MM "300CC", Naraku cam, Yoshimura rS3 exhaust, 17g Sliders, Yellow torque spring drilled airbox, stock carb #115 main #40 pj.

2001 "Yamaha" Zuma AKA MBK Booster; MHR OverRange, Dellorto 19mm BHBG, Polini "big" intake, RS-3 Rear shock, Stock cylinder.

zombie

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Re: question about variator nut removal
« Reply #8 on: December 28, 2014, 09:02:53 AM »
Dude... It'll snap a 1/2" bolt w/ no problem. I've used it on crank bearing caps for decades, and it always requires heat to get the nuts off.

That crank shaft end is just 2mm over 1/2"
"They have nothing in their whole imperial arsenal that can break the spirit of one Irishman who doesn't want to be broken."   Bobby Sands...

boo

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Re: question about variator nut removal
« Reply #9 on: December 28, 2014, 02:50:12 PM »
This may be a dumb question, but you are trying to take it off counter clockwise right? Just checking..... I've never had a nut with red loc tite be That Hard to get off .

Yes, counter clockwise.
I was a mechanical trouble shooter/line tech in a factory for years. I have never seen a small nut this tight. The shop must have added Red Loctite and held an impact wrench on it for five minutes.
When I get the old nut off, I think I will use Blue Loctite and proper torque on the new nut.
Don't want to go through this again.
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zombie

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Re: question about variator nut removal
« Reply #10 on: December 28, 2014, 10:29:29 PM »
Fingers crossed!!!
"They have nothing in their whole imperial arsenal that can break the spirit of one Irishman who doesn't want to be broken."   Bobby Sands...

Stig / Major Tom

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Re: question about variator nut removal
« Reply #11 on: December 28, 2014, 11:25:14 PM »
Yep, fingers crossed...my like had a factory crazy tight nut when I put Dr Pulley sliders in.....actually find factory tightened fastenwrs crazy tight on my Kymco and HONDA.
Agree with using new nuts.....very cheap insurance! Always use new ones.
Stig
« Last Edit: December 30, 2014, 07:46:04 PM by Stig »
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Ian7

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Re: question about variator nut removal
« Reply #12 on: January 04, 2015, 04:27:47 PM »
Just tried to pull the variator nut off my super8 (only 65 miles on the clock), 250 ft-lb impact wouldn't do it without a torch on the nut first....

...and three seconds with the torch virtually destroyed the adjacent plastic air vane.... where do I get a new one of those? LOL

zombie

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Re: question about variator nut removal
« Reply #13 on: January 04, 2015, 10:43:10 PM »
YTou can buy one from B&L ( i think) or from Kymco Parts Monster . Com

OR just toss it. I ride lots of bikes where it has been trashed long ago.
"They have nothing in their whole imperial arsenal that can break the spirit of one Irishman who doesn't want to be broken."   Bobby Sands...

BettinANDlosing

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Re: question about variator nut removal
« Reply #14 on: January 04, 2015, 11:43:50 PM »
What are you referring to? I can't picture what it would be. The fan on the variator?
2002 Kymco B&W 300; MRP 78MM "300CC", Naraku cam, Yoshimura rS3 exhaust, 17g Sliders, Yellow torque spring drilled airbox, stock carb #115 main #40 pj.

2001 "Yamaha" Zuma AKA MBK Booster; MHR OverRange, Dellorto 19mm BHBG, Polini "big" intake, RS-3 Rear shock, Stock cylinder.

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