Author Topic: question about variator nut removal  (Read 7790 times)

Ian7

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Re: question about variator nut removal
« Reply #15 on: January 07, 2015, 10:42:53 PM »
As time has gone by, the comments here by experts, and my discoveries inside the transmission of my "only has 60 miles on it" two-stroke Super8 convince me that I was hosed by the seller. The variator assembly is a collection of worn out parts which according to parts manuals came off another 4-stroke scoot which has a separate plastic fan rather than the fins integrated into the metal variator face plate.
Yes, engine is definitely 2 stroke, I'm not that much a newb LOL, and bike has oil injection tank under seat as well.

Took the rear clutch apart too, found it heavily worn, and with grease on the three friction surfaces !! No wonder it wont accelerate LOLOL

zombie

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Re: question about variator nut removal
« Reply #16 on: January 07, 2015, 10:48:52 PM »
Sorry to hear someone dumped a bunch of worn parts on you.

The bright side here is all those parts can be replaced for approx 250.00 IF you go with the best parts made for your bike.
Jasil Var, Malossi rollers, and springs, Stage 6 MK II clutch, and bell.
About 1/2 that price if you set up a dealer account...

All new OEM parts will cost close to the same 150.00 retail.

I am happy to hear you are getting a grasp on what you have, and how it all works. There is always a silver lining.
"They have nothing in their whole imperial arsenal that can break the spirit of one Irishman who doesn't want to be broken."   Bobby Sands...

BettinANDlosing

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Re: question about variator nut removal
« Reply #17 on: January 07, 2015, 11:01:07 PM »
As time has gone by, the comments here by experts, and my discoveries inside the transmission of my "only has 60 miles on it" two-stroke Super8 convince me that I was hosed by the seller. The variator assembly is a collection of worn out parts which according to parts manuals came off another 4-stroke scoot which has a separate plastic fan rather than the fins integrated into the metal variator face plate.
Yes, engine is definitely 2 stroke, I'm not that much a newb LOL, and bike has oil injection tank under seat as well.

Took the rear clutch apart too, found it heavily worn, and with grease on the three friction surfaces !! No wonder it wont accelerate LOLOL

The stock Super 8 DOES have plastic fan on the variator, the same as all 50cc Kymco scooters, and gy6 50cc. It is not unheard of to have oil on the clutches in 800 miles. I wouldn't say you got ripped.
2002 Kymco B&W 300; MRP 78MM "300CC", Naraku cam, Yoshimura rS3 exhaust, 17g Sliders, Yellow torque spring drilled airbox, stock carb #115 main #40 pj.

2001 "Yamaha" Zuma AKA MBK Booster; MHR OverRange, Dellorto 19mm BHBG, Polini "big" intake, RS-3 Rear shock, Stock cylinder.

Ian7

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Re: question about variator nut removal
« Reply #18 on: January 08, 2015, 01:34:02 AM »
The stock Super 8 DOES have plastic fan on the variator, the same as all 50cc Kymco scooters, and gy6 50cc. It is not unheard of to have oil on the clutches in 800 miles. I wouldn't say you got ripped.

thx, well maybe the worst "offense" the seller made was reconnecting the speedo cable just before selling me an 18 month old scoot with 60 miles on it  LOL

boo

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Update: on Red Loctite and variator nut removal
« Reply #19 on: January 18, 2015, 01:54:15 PM »
Went to Loctite website to learn about their products.
In particular how to remove a nut that was installed with Red Loctite.
They even have videos to help with Loctite products.

Red Loctite creates a permanent bond. It can only be broke by heating nut to slightly above 550 degrees fahrenheit using a propane torch. It said bolts can actually be broken trying to remove a Red Loctite installed nut without using heat.

After my experience, I will never use Red Loctite on a variator nut.
I will use Blue. It is made to hold but, be loosened with hand tools.

If you use Loctite products, I recommend you look at their website.
« Last Edit: January 18, 2015, 01:59:27 PM by boo »
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zombie

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Re: question about variator nut removal
« Reply #20 on: January 18, 2015, 06:35:39 PM »
Red is very similar to Crazy glue. I have used CG in the past when there was no Red Lok Tight around.

I bring that up because Nail Polish remover soaked into the join will soften Red but it takes awhile to soak all the way in.

One other trick that works if you can't find any sort of thread locker is to take a hammer, and wack a deformation onto the threaded end, or stand the nut on its side, and wack it to slightly "egg" shape it. Either way it will self lock, and no worries.
"They have nothing in their whole imperial arsenal that can break the spirit of one Irishman who doesn't want to be broken."   Bobby Sands...

BettinANDlosing

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Re: question about variator nut removal
« Reply #21 on: January 18, 2015, 07:59:07 PM »
I NEVER EVER EVER use any loctite on variator nuts (The small end ones, always use a dab on the large clutch nut). Never once had a variator nut spin off, notttt once.



I have an Ingrasolrand impact that set on the highest torque will set those nuts on there pretty damn good, I will mention that I have a really good "feel" when it comes to my impact (Had it over 6 years) and have never stripped a variator nut or crankshaft before either.
2002 Kymco B&W 300; MRP 78MM "300CC", Naraku cam, Yoshimura rS3 exhaust, 17g Sliders, Yellow torque spring drilled airbox, stock carb #115 main #40 pj.

2001 "Yamaha" Zuma AKA MBK Booster; MHR OverRange, Dellorto 19mm BHBG, Polini "big" intake, RS-3 Rear shock, Stock cylinder.

zombie

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Re: question about variator nut removal
« Reply #22 on: January 18, 2015, 09:16:16 PM »
I have had Var. nuts run off on de-accell. Two different 4t 50cc bikes actually but both of them using sliders instead of rollers.
One was mine the first few days after switching, and one, a friends the day he installed them.
A dab of Blue, and it was solved in both cases.

There were several threads here as well where a member installed a var only to have it blow off, and make a royal mess of things.

In my case I know I tightened properly BUT the teeth in the ramp plate were marginal, and in the second I have no idea what caused/allowed it to happen but like I said... A dab of blue fixed it.

Just sayin'
"They have nothing in their whole imperial arsenal that can break the spirit of one Irishman who doesn't want to be broken."   Bobby Sands...

JJJoseph

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Re: question about variator nut removal
« Reply #23 on: February 16, 2015, 07:20:38 AM »
The shop where I bought my GT overtightened, and or used Loctite on my variator nut.
Never mind the Locktite.  Tighten with impact wrench to 40ft-lb and get on with life.  It's not going to come loose.

zombie

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Re: question about variator nut removal
« Reply #24 on: February 16, 2015, 09:15:33 AM »
I've had a few blow off on de acceleration.

Tight is tight but it can, and does happen.
"They have nothing in their whole imperial arsenal that can break the spirit of one Irishman who doesn't want to be broken."   Bobby Sands...

2wheelfun

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Re: question about variator nut removal
« Reply #25 on: February 16, 2015, 11:37:53 PM »
Boo use a 1/2in 6pt impact socket with a 1/2in breaker bar. Smack the end of the breaker bar with a 3lb hand held sledge trying to tighten a couple of times, then try to loosen it by smacking. Keep the socket square while doing it.
« Last Edit: February 16, 2015, 11:39:55 PM by 2wheelfun »

mrbios

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Re: question about variator nut removal
« Reply #26 on: February 20, 2015, 05:34:33 PM »
There is a much simpler way...
1. verify the correct direction to loosen.
2. remove or loosen the outer cover.
3. go to your local tire shop and remove the cover and ask one of the guys if he can blow it off for you, ply him with cash if needed.
4. Complete work in the parking lot or snug the nut and ride home.
5. Return to the tire shop to tighten the part if you feel you can't get it tight enough at home.

Alternative method:
1. make (I used my welder + rebar and cut some 1/2"? pipe for the round part) or buy a variator holder.
2. use a 1/2" breaker bar and socket and strike the breaker bar with a 3 or 4 pound hammer.  It works - I used this method to remove 1-1/2" lug nuts off a dump truck using 3/4 drive socket and breaker bar with a pipe extension (aka cheater bar) and an 8 lb sledge hammer.  It took and average of 4 good hits to loosen things up.  It also helps to turn in the right direction - the Studs had and L stamped in them for Left Hand thread or reverse thread.

** While I love my 175 PSI air compressor and impact tools there times and places such as an outdoor "field" repair where they not available.  In such cases the impact needed is delivered with a hammer.

Red Loctite should not be used.  If the mfg calls for it just use Blue.
In most applications where Red Loctite is used - the expectation is that a torch will be used to heat the part to 500F prior to removal to dissolve the bond.
« Last Edit: February 20, 2015, 05:39:16 PM by mrbios »
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