Author Topic: front brakes  (Read 5311 times)

chaz35

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front brakes
« on: January 01, 2015, 08:28:48 PM »
Front brakes work well, but return of lever is sluggish.  The end of the lever is busted off, so maybe master-cylinder internals are worn or misaligned.  I guess I need to take it apart and have a look.

Also, scooter is 2005, so I was thinking about flushing the brake fluid.  Any suggestions on how to?  I understand these brakes take DOT 3 fluid, and I am a little leary of it.  My only experience with DOT 3 is it cystallized in the brake lines of a kart left in storage for several years, took some work to get it cleaned out.

Cheers
1st and 2nd usually have an unfair advantage.  3rd is usually the best, can learn the most from.  paraphrased from Don Quixote, over 400 years ago, still true today

zombie

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Re: front brakes
« Reply #1 on: January 02, 2015, 12:43:33 AM »
Dot 3/4 are the same except for the heat tolerance. They both are hydroscopic (adsorb water). Dot 4 is mainly for bikes due to better heat tolerance.

It's possible the lever is bent or the mount bosses tweaked. Pull it apart, and see.

To change the fluid I simply open the bleeder, and attach a hose into a container for the scrap fluid, and then open the fill cap on the bars. Just squeeze the lever till the fluid is low enough to re-fill, and keep repeating until it is all fresh through out.
Maybe 8-10 refills.
"They have nothing in their whole imperial arsenal that can break the spirit of one Irishman who doesn't want to be broken."   Bobby Sands...

BettinANDlosing

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Re: front brakes
« Reply #2 on: January 02, 2015, 12:52:05 AM »
I've had a few bikes in the shop that had been down and the brake felt horrible. I think when it hits the lever it can also damage the master cylinder. Best to just get a new one.
2002 Kymco B&W 300; MRP 78MM "300CC", Naraku cam, Yoshimura rS3 exhaust, 17g Sliders, Yellow torque spring drilled airbox, stock carb #115 main #40 pj.

2001 "Yamaha" Zuma AKA MBK Booster; MHR OverRange, Dellorto 19mm BHBG, Polini "big" intake, RS-3 Rear shock, Stock cylinder.

chaz35

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Re: front brakes
« Reply #3 on: January 02, 2015, 04:01:09 PM »
Thanks for replies.  I guess will disassemble and go from there.  I imagine new mastercylinder expensive.  My experience with karts was to buy new ones, I rebuilt one 1 x and it was wasted time and $'s.  After that experience, I treated them like batteries, any trouble out of it and I replaced it with a new one.  Cheers
1st and 2nd usually have an unfair advantage.  3rd is usually the best, can learn the most from.  paraphrased from Don Quixote, over 400 years ago, still true today

zombie

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"They have nothing in their whole imperial arsenal that can break the spirit of one Irishman who doesn't want to be broken."   Bobby Sands...

gosku

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Re: front brakes
« Reply #5 on: January 03, 2015, 04:13:12 PM »
Since you're having a discussion about front brakes, I thought to add my question here.
I recently noticed that level of DOT on front brakes of mine People is close to minimum. As far as I know it was never changed (I'm the second owner) so it would be good to change it (scooter was made in 2008). I thought that maybe I should change the pads too on this occasion?

What do you think? They seem rather slim to me, but hey, I'm just a newbie  ::)

Kymco People S 50 2T 2008
Tecnigas Next-R Pipe
Malossi torsion controller 2512828
Malossi rollers 7g
Michelin City Grip front + Heidenau K66 rear

chaz35

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Re: front brakes
« Reply #6 on: January 03, 2015, 05:14:05 PM »
How many miles on your scooter?

I am a newbie too, but pads look OK to me.  You could always buy and install new pads.  Brake fluid level will go down as the brakes wear, because the caliper piston moves out increasing the amount of brake fluid in the caliper.  Probably not a bad idea to flush with new brake fluid.  I have 2005 People and 2003 Super 9 that I plan to flush the brakes soon.  Brake fluid is very cheap, and seals, etc will last longer with fresh brake fluid.  I think Z described how to do it above.

These are great scooters.  I just got back from riding mine a little in the neighborhood, fun.  I recently ordered a pipe, but runs so well, not sure I really need a pipe.  Now I am trying to figure out what to do with the CVT, which will need some adjustments after I install pipe, as I understand it.  Cheers
1st and 2nd usually have an unfair advantage.  3rd is usually the best, can learn the most from.  paraphrased from Don Quixote, over 400 years ago, still true today

BettinANDlosing

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Re: front brakes
« Reply #7 on: January 03, 2015, 05:41:59 PM »
Those pads are totally shot!!! You should replace asap. And I wouldn't put fluid in until replacing the pads, the level will most likely be in the right spot after new pads. Wouldn't hurt to flush the fluid, but being a 2008 it's not that old. I'm picky about my scooters, and end up doing a brake fluid flush about once a year just because.
2002 Kymco B&W 300; MRP 78MM "300CC", Naraku cam, Yoshimura rS3 exhaust, 17g Sliders, Yellow torque spring drilled airbox, stock carb #115 main #40 pj.

2001 "Yamaha" Zuma AKA MBK Booster; MHR OverRange, Dellorto 19mm BHBG, Polini "big" intake, RS-3 Rear shock, Stock cylinder.

zombie

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Re: front brakes
« Reply #8 on: January 03, 2015, 10:00:05 PM »
Since you're having a discussion about front brakes, I thought to add my question here.
I recently noticed that level of DOT on front brakes of mine People is close to minimum. As far as I know it was never changed (I'm the second owner) so it would be good to change it (scooter was made in 2008). I thought that maybe I should change the pads too on this occasion?

What do you think? They seem rather slim to me, but hey, I'm just a newbie  ::)



LOL I just posted this to Chaz on his other thread...
"Look up Malossi pads for the front. Even if yours are still good. It's a night, and day swap, and they last forever. I haven't ridden my 2t in about a year but the Malossi's look like brand new after 5 years of 60 -70 mph daily driving (maybe 50mph average daily but its been over 80mph)"
"They have nothing in their whole imperial arsenal that can break the spirit of one Irishman who doesn't want to be broken."   Bobby Sands...

zombie

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Re: front brakes
« Reply #9 on: January 03, 2015, 10:05:49 PM »
Quote Chaz
"  Now I am trying to figure out what to do with the CVT, which will need some adjustments after I install pipe, as I understand it.  Cheers"

Usually you go to lighter rollers to allow the bike to rev up into the pipes power band quicker. For a real kick in the nutz... Install Malossi Black fly springs.
They will stall the clutch until you are on the pipe, and the bike will almost drop you off the back. 5hp is alot on a hundred pound 2t bike. 0-60 in 4-5 seconds maybe.

Just sayin...
"They have nothing in their whole imperial arsenal that can break the spirit of one Irishman who doesn't want to be broken."   Bobby Sands...

BettinANDlosing

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Re: front brakes
« Reply #10 on: January 03, 2015, 10:19:46 PM »
10hp is more ^^^^^ LOLz
2002 Kymco B&W 300; MRP 78MM "300CC", Naraku cam, Yoshimura rS3 exhaust, 17g Sliders, Yellow torque spring drilled airbox, stock carb #115 main #40 pj.

2001 "Yamaha" Zuma AKA MBK Booster; MHR OverRange, Dellorto 19mm BHBG, Polini "big" intake, RS-3 Rear shock, Stock cylinder.

zombie

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Re: front brakes
« Reply #11 on: January 03, 2015, 10:24:19 PM »
Mine goes to 11. Plus I carry a loaded 13 gauge on the bars! >:(

"They have nothing in their whole imperial arsenal that can break the spirit of one Irishman who doesn't want to be broken."   Bobby Sands...

chaz35

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Re: front brakes
« Reply #12 on: January 04, 2015, 05:40:22 AM »
Experts have spoken, I would get new pads, don't want to mess around with brakes.  Cheers
1st and 2nd usually have an unfair advantage.  3rd is usually the best, can learn the most from.  paraphrased from Don Quixote, over 400 years ago, still true today

zombie

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Re: front brakes
« Reply #13 on: January 04, 2015, 05:57:07 AM »
You know... I noticed something. All these threads get hundreds of views, and in very short order.

WHO ARE THESE PEOPLE!?!> WHY DO THEY NOT SPEAK!?!>

I suddenly feel like the fella from the Truman Show. I guess that's better than a lion behind glass.
"They have nothing in their whole imperial arsenal that can break the spirit of one Irishman who doesn't want to be broken."   Bobby Sands...

gosku

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Re: front brakes
« Reply #14 on: January 04, 2015, 10:41:14 AM »
I've got 6k miles on mine. I know that the brake fluid level will compensate the brakes pad wear and that's why I was wondering if I should replace the pads instead of just flushing the old fluid and replacing with new. BTW, even with these worn stock pads the front brakes are so much better than the rear  :-\ I will look up Malossi for the front.

Haha Z, I agree. Well, or maybe some of us like to read the same topic 50 times? Who knows?  ;D
Kymco People S 50 2T 2008
Tecnigas Next-R Pipe
Malossi torsion controller 2512828
Malossi rollers 7g
Michelin City Grip front + Heidenau K66 rear

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