Newbie here and super8 50cc 2t very slow

[T33omm]

Hi guys bought a super 8 50cc 2t yesterday, it's a 2014 model with 1000 miles and payed £500 for her, I'm 26 and 13 stone I bought the bike to go to work so I don't have to wreck my car etc, what I need to know is how is this scooter so slow (30mph) and how do I derestrict it, how many restrictions are in the exhaust I'm going to get a smooth boss, what big jet do I need, and am I right In saying the heavier the rollers the faster top speed, and will a upgraded cdi box make it faster, and could someone give me a link for all the upgraded parts I need  to buy thanks you

[BettinANDlosing]

Hey there, welcome to the Kymco Forum. 30mph is pretty standard for the new Super 8 is VERY VERY restricted from the factory.
Look at this: http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=11962.0
My write up on how to totally derestrict the new 2t Kymcos. The best you can expect is about 40mph stock. Heavier weights in theory are BETTER for top speed, but don't necessarily increase top speed. They just lower RPM at any given speed, after about 25 MPH the variator is in its highest gear ratio and weights have no bearing on anything at that point. Heavy weights will just take longer to get to your top speed. I take it your in England? Try the guys over at ScooterAttack.com they are in Germany, but have some amazing high end parts, shipping is steep to the US but you should have it a little better.

[Chris0381]

Things you can consider.

-Removing snorkel from airbox with exhaust deresriction.
-Once the exhaust is derestricted and snorkel removed, upjet greater than #85. Im at an #87 right now. I think it has been mentioned that taking out the snorkel w/o derestricting the exhaust didn't help much.
-A malossi purple torque spring with malossi torsion controller.
-Dr Pulley sliders, Ill be changing to 8gm sliders as soon as my Malossi torsion controller comes in. I may be a bit light on sliders.
-Smooth boss you already mentioned.
-If you can't derestrict your exhaust for a reasonable price, some members are having luck with the Naraku Traffic exhaust.
-Prey for PNE to be Swindon Saturday

Those should get you to 40 MPH on the flats as Bettin mentioned and real good low end performance (I can confirm). The 2014 exhaust may have a a slightly diff. restriction method than my 2013. I'd get the best tires possible for European rainy weather if you commuting with the bike or riding in a lot in the rain if you increase performance. The clutch/fly springs are pretty good stock IMO.

If you want big speed 50+, then a BBK, bigger carb/intake, and chambered exhaust is usually done at a possible expense of shorter engine/tranny life (I cant confirm).

Good luck.

[Chris0381]

On another topic of tuning, on the carb, there is an airscrew hidden under a brass cap. Once that cap is removed, you can cut a slot in the screw or use a special 3 quid "D" shaped socket. I find it fairly essential to be able to adjust that screw when doing the derestriction mods mentioned above.

You may find you dont need to adjust that screw at all; but I like it to be available for maybe a slight adjustment when the weather temperature changes from 90F to 50F. My screw is about 1-1/8 turns out right now.

[T33omm]

Hey guys thanks for the info just gone and bought these today will be with me on Friday can you guys think what else will make it any faster without changing the Carb or Bkk

And could you explain more about the idle screw on the carb thanks thomas

[T33omm]

And I bought a jet kit so I can fine tune the main jet

[Chris0381]

Well, with those parts especially the chambered exhaust, you have gone more towards the high performance end of derestriction mods. I cant really help there as I haven't gone that far with modding. I run just basic derestrictions.

Brass cap removal.



Hope that exhaust works for you without you needing to add a bigger carb, intake and open air filter (Im sure you will use the appropriate jet). Please report back, I'd like to know how it goes.

Also, that locking tool does not work well with the variator but works with the clutch bell removal. You will find there are no good holes to hold onto for that tool to work on the kymco variator. Maybe your 2014 model is different than mine.

The clutch nut (under the bell/after bell removal) that you have to remove to replace the torque/contra spring is 39mm at least on my 2013 model.

[anarchyx34]

On another topic of tuning, on the carb, there is an airscrew hidden under a brass cap. Once that cap is removed, you can cut a slot in the screw or use a special 3 quid "D" shaped socket. I find it fairly essential to be able to adjust that screw when doing the derestriction mods mentioned above.

You may find you dont need to adjust that screw at all; but I like it to be available for maybe a slight adjustment when the weather temperature changes from 90F to 50F. My screw is about 1-1/8 turns out right now.

What exactly does this screw do? It's not an idle-speed screw I'm guessing.

[BettinANDlosing]

What exactly does this screw do? It's not an idle-speed screw I'm guessing.

It adjusts the air/fuel ratio at idle and less than 1/4 throttle. Screwing it counter-clockwise lets more fuel in and clockwise less.