2013 Agility 50-72cc

[JayAre]

Back at it, hooked up my inductive tachometer & it bounces when the miss occurs so I'm thinking I'm hitting the rev limiter. I thought I read someone had cut a newer Kymco cdi & never hit a wire so maybe they're updated? Ordered another new de-restricted cdi today. I hope this one doesn't blow fuses.

[blue]

sorry to say but I feel a bang comeing from that scoot soon.

[JayAre]

Blue You must be a glass half empty kind of guy. No wonder you're "Blue". I say the the glass is full, half full of water & half full of air. This bike will run well it's the finding & waiting for parts to make it right that's hard. Tuning is like going for a walk. Take one step at a time & eventually you'll you'll get where you want.

[blue]

Blue You must be a glass half empty kind of guy. No wonder you're "Blue". I say the the glass is full, half full of water & half full of air. This bike will run well it's the finding & waiting for parts to make it right that's hard. Tuning is like going for a walk. Take one step at a time & eventually you'll you'll get where you want.
[/quote

Sorry about being so blunt. the last few big bore kits I have seen blow up because they play to much and make mistakes.With all the jeting .I realy wish ya luck.  I always tell riders if they wanted faster get a bigger bike.
there are only so much you can do to a little 50cc scoot. my 50 cc is all stock but the drive boss and the main jet and I can do 45 to 50 all day. again sorry and welcome to the fourm. good luck.   o ya nothing wrong putting someone in there place at times we need that.    peace.

[JayAre]

Thanks Blue! I really jumped the gun on this project. I assumed, (short for make an ASS out of U/the dealer & ME) the bike was never right when I bought it with 13 miles on it. They said they needed a day to clean the carb & make sure the battery was charged before I picked it up. I put the bike away, at 130 miles, because I found a sweet deal on 2 2005 Yamaha Zuma's, they went 25mph up hills, the Kymco wouldn't go 10mph up hill & there's a lot of hills in Marquette. Again "assuming" 4 strokes need 25-30% more displacement to compete with a 2 stroke I installed the BB. When I started to tune the carb for the BB I found the diaphragm was folded into the chamber, float level 4mm to high, & the auto by starter was stuck open. Shame on me for missing the obvious. I'm 56 yrs old & have been playing with cars, bikes, & sleds for 40 yrs. Start with the basics!
 I'm not looking to make a high rev bike here just trying to keep up with the 2T's. Once I get the new cdi I'll probably end up adding weight to the variator to keep the revs down & use the BB torque to climb the hills, or go back to the shorter belt to pull some gear out of it & load the motor. The main jet is close as the plug is dark brown after a wide open pull. This is an emissions carb so it's tune ability is limited from idle through the midrange(no needle adjustment). I'm trying to keep a post & maybe save someone the headache's I'm going through. Once I'm done tuning I'll post my final setup. One step at a time & I'll get there. This ain't my first pair of pants just a little smaller than what I'm use to

[JayAre]

Put the new derestricted CDI in the bike & it would not fire. Not even a pop. This just keeps getting better. This is 2 CDI's off E-bay. The first Blue with an aluminum housing, blew the fuse. Now this one, Orange plastic case, won't fire the bike. Zero spark. I think I'll call Scooter Dawgs, or Moped Hospital & make sure I'm getting one that will works! And I'd like to get some heavier weights to pull the rpms down. Any body have an opinion on a good USA source for parts? I'm gone for a week for training so it'll be next weekend before I can try it again. At least that'll give the shipping time to happen

[thenaaks]

I didn't see you mention it, but make sure you're getting the right kind. I think DC is standard among 139qmb engines, but kymco uses AC (someone correct me if I'm wrong).

To the poster stating he can run 45-50 all day long:  are you talking mph? And is that speedometer or actual (gps verified). My scoot runs great, but it will only do 44mph (gps verified) downhill (and I'm pretty sure it goes into valve float at that point). The speedo is reading somewhere over 55mph at that point. I've found that on my scoot, the actual speed in mph is pretty close to half of the speedo indicated kph. That being said, i can do 35mph (actual) fairly easily on flat ground most of the time. The slightest incline drops the speed. Heck, a headwind will keep it at 30mph. I've been thinking about doing a small bbk just to help with acceleration and hills. I'm fine with a top speed of 40mph. And i think that's honestly all she's geared for.

[blue]

The cdi is DC but the stator puts out Ac.there is a relay for the dif.

[JayAre]

Got the new DC/6 pin/CDI from Universal Parts DBA Parts For Scooters.com, same results pops the fuse. The electrical schematics shows a Regulator/Rectifier which would make it a DC system the way it's wired. There's 4 wires used, 3 on the 4 pin plug, 1 on the double plug. One wire to the switch, one to the pulsar/trigger coil, one to the ignition coil, & a ground. I haven't had a chance to ring the pins out & compare resistances on the CDI's to try to figure out if something's different the way the two are configured.

I did load the variator with 8 gram Dr. Pulley rollers & put the shorter/stock belt on to load the engine & pull the rpms down using the stock CDI. Still have a miss after the bike gets to  about 18 mph/wide open throttle, then will continue to miss anything over about 1/3 to 1/2 throttle. Also my multi meter crapped out so I can't tell where the rpms are now. I got no luck on this project . Pulled the intake tube to the carb to see what's happening in the venturi, when it starts to miss I found the slide is dropping. I'm thinking the air cut off valve is malfunctioning? Or the miss/back fire is pulsing & pushing the slide diaphragm back down? When I get some time I'll pull the carb apart again to check the air cut off circuit. I'm also going to check fuel flow from the tank to make sure it's not running out of fuel.

[zombie]

There is one proven formula for these bikes that gets 40-50mph.

50mm bore kit, 5.5gr rollers or better 6gr Dr Pulley sliders, Red Malossi contra spring, 20mm Fleabay carb, CDI

The way to tell if it is an AC or DC cdi is turn on the key. There will be +12v on the CDI if it is wired that way.
Kymco agility-s are wired DC BUT it may have been chanced by a hack dealer so double check it.
It also will not start with a dead battery if that is an issue.

If you go for the 50mm kit/ 50mph, if you have the 47mm / 45mph with all the listed mods.

Also the longer belt will not pull all the way down into the clutch pulley so you lose top end.

The free mods are drilling two 1" holes into the back of the airbox cover, and six 1/2" holes in the back cover of the tail pipe. You already did a 1" hole so you need four more 1/2" around that one.

You obviously know your stuff so just get used to the bike, and you'll like it better than the Zuma.

Parts for scooters .com. Best place I know for fast parts but Fleabay has better prices.

[blue]

I see your scoot is a 2013  mmmmmmm  Im not sure if cutting the cdi was a good thing maybe that's whats wrong. Some of the scoots that are newer then 2010 don't need the cdi cut. You can get a race cdi then that will bypass everything going on with the cdi. Also try a 20mm carb. clean all your wire plugs and make sure all is grounded good. 1 bad ground will make fuses plow.

[JayAre]

I haven't cut the CDI because of what I've read on this forum, someone cut their's & never hit a wire, CDI's possibly changed after 2011... I have bought 2 "racing CDI's from different sources, see attachment, with the same result. It blows the fuse when as soon as I hit the start button. I didn't find anything wrong when I pulled the carb apart. The air cut off circuit looked good, diaphragm, o-ring, & ran a tip cleaner through the port. I haven't checked the fuel flow from the tank or did any testing/ring out & check resistance on the CDI yet to see if maybe they're configured differently. Also I'll check the gas tank vent/gas cap. I have seen caps/vents plug up from the ethanol/sugar. The only other thing I can think of would be the intake valve sticking on the head? Not a lot of time as I'm trying to get my garagemahal built, 30'x50' garage, for all my projects, 82 Z28, 74 Kawasaki Z-1 900, boat, along with disc golfing & volleyball, and the damn work thing takes up 50-60 hrs a week!

[blue]

Wow at this point I would take it in to a shop and let theam find out whats wrong.wireing stuff gets to me dont care for some of the ways some scoots are wired.to much for me if I cant fix it maybe someone else can.

[JayAre]

Off to a great start left the key on & the battery is dead, it's on the charger. I did test the CDI's & the pins test very differently. The 2 pin plug on the bike uses only 1 pin which is the power from the switch. The 4 pin uses only 3, the pulsar coil, the ignition coil, & ground. The 2 pins that aren't used have no continuity/connection, to any other pin or between them. On the new/racing CDI's the 2 pin plug/red & black wires appear to be power & ground, with no resistance between them. The 4 pin has way different resistance between the pins & the direction of electrical flow is also different than the stock CDI. I'm pretty good with electrical systems & have some basic understanding of electronics. So, with that I would have to say my 2013 CDI is configured differently & this is why it blows the fuse with the racing CDI's.
I also checked the gas flow from the tank & the gas tank's vent which both tested good. I did notice the vacuum supply to the gas tank shut off valve also supplies the emissions system so I'm going to disconnect the emissions to see if it makes a difference. If that doesn't work I'll bypass the fuel shut off & try it. These 2 tests will eliminate fuel delivery to the carb but that'll be tomorrow once the battery is charged.
As for taking it to a shop I live in Marquette MI a town of 26,000. It's the biggest city in the Upper Peninsula of MI. Population of the entire U.P. is about 100,000. There's only 2 shops that deal moped's within 60 miles. One is the Yamaha dealer, the other Honda & Kymco. It's the dealer I mentioned earlier in this book of posts. Besides hiring it would take challenge out of it, & the only tool they have that I don't is the factory help line/technician. I've got this forum which has some very helpful people contributing! Thanks everyone.

[JayAre]

Battery is DEAD. Wouldn't even take a charge so I bought a new one. Finished off the fuel test same results still have the miss.
I bought a 20mm Keihin CVK carb that came in the mail Saturday & installed it with a 98 jet. The miss is gone, it pulls 25+ up hills, & I'm getting 43 top speed with 8gram weights & the stock belt. Still needs a little more tuning in the midrange, the needle is all the way up & it still feels lean/surges, & I need to give it a little throttle to start so I'll play with the pilot jet. Also I'll go to 100 jet & play with the needle this week for the midrange & maybe try the 7gram weights. It's pulling the hills which is what I was looking for when I started this fiasco. I've never had so many problems tweaking a machine before. Maybe they get more fickle the smaller they get!