PHBG installatin help please

[Triesandluth]

Damn man,  that's almost worse than it not starting...  Was your plug wet afterwards?  I found a problem on my tgb,  after it would sit without me working on it for a while,  oil would leak into the engine.  I found my cylinder,  case,  and exhaust full of oil that would drown the spark plug after it started.  I had to pull it all apart down to the case and soak the oil or of the case with paper towels. 
I figure my s9 does similar due to the large amount of smoke and sputtering until really opening it up after it has sat for the night or longer. 
I'm grasping at straws here,  hoping someone will stumble across your issue...


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[TheAmishSasquatch]

Thanks man. I'm so bummed and over this scooter! The plug does get wet with fuel/oil but only after kicking it over, repeatedly. I've taken the plug out and flame dried it with the stove. I figure the hot electrode would also help keep the plug dry for a few kicks and give me a better chance at ignition; but I'm wrong. I'm really really at a loss. I figure the plug is wet from too much fuel (duh!) So I've tried starting with the carb adjusted in (lean) on the idle circuit and running adjustments. Might try an unusually small (then what would be expected for this setup) main jet. I'm gonna try to source a smaller idle jet as well. Maybe there's just too much gas for proper ignition?? I really have doubts about the common crank seal leak simply due to the good compression of the motor... not to mention it has run (even if pooly) with the current setup. I'm grasping at straws here too. FML 😕

[Triesandluth]

Is it drenched ?  I found out by taking out the plug and turning it over.  When I did,  sh** started blowing out of the plug hole.  More than the mist that is necessary to start.  In my case it was a large amount that money shot me,  as I was leaning in front of the open tunnel lol.  That's when I discovered my oil has drained into the engine bits. 
From what I thought,  which I may be wrong,  is that the compression tests test only the top end,  piston and rings.  A leak down test would only tell leaking crank seals.  I'm not 100% on that though.  Is your base gasket  have any problems?  I wonder if that would be noticeable from compression tests or not...
What's bad is that this is probably just something that is being overlooked and will make you want to drop the damn thing off a bridge when you figure it out.
I would definitely try to find a smaller idle jet to start with just to get it to maintain idle before needing the main. 
Man,  I really wish you had the chance to toss back on the stock carb....


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[Triesandluth]

Dumb question,  you're positive the arrow on the piston is facing down?  I actually got my first kit to start with it facing up,  but it ran terrible for just a few seconds then wouldn't again...
Not to try to insult your intelligence,  man!

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[TheAmishSasquatch]

The plug isn't dripping wet after many start attempts, but it is certainly damp. I'm certain the piston arrow is facing down, as noted in one of my previous on one of the pages here. As for the base gasket, I'm using the Malossi supplied gasket which is thinner then stock. I wonder if the port timing is off with this gasket?? The original was ruined during removal so I think I'll order a new OE gasket and try that. I too wish I could use the tick carb, but it's Fuct and the manifold was hacked to be used with the new carb.

[Triesandluth]

I didn't pay attention if my liquid cooled malossi kit base gasket was any thinner.  I wouldn't think it would cause a timing disruption,  since to increase or decrease your squish is usually done by adding and removing gaskets.  Not 100% on that though. 
Are the base gaskets interchangeable between liquid and air cooled? I may still have a new one from a gasket kit I bought in the package of you're going that direction. 

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[TheAmishSasquatch]

I think the gaskets are the same between LC and AC. It should be recalled that the Malossi kit I got was not specified for "kymco super 9". It was designated for use with cobra, top boy, and agility IIRCC. All of which are interchangeable, but perhaps some minor differences such as the gaskets. That would be great and very appreciated if you have a spare gasket you can part with. If it works I'll send you the thin metal gasket the kit included, in return.

[Triesandluth]

A metal base gasket?  That's odd. The one's I've gotten were paper type material... 
I'll check that I have it once I get back home this evening.  If I do I'll message you to get an address.  Shouldn't be much to ship,  I'll just sandwich it between some cardboard. 

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[Triesandluth]

this look right to you?

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[TheAmishSasquatch]

Yep that looks about right!!   Thanks!  I'm sending my address now via PM.

[TheAmishSasquatch]

The gasket arrived friday, safe and sound. Thanks man!!  Now I just need to install it 

[Triesandluth]

Awesome man.  Let us know!

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[TheAmishSasquatch]

Its aliiive!! Its ALIIIIVE!!!  Well sorta   After much tinkering and retracing steps and listening to various advice and a new OEM gasket thanks to my budy Tries; the bike fired for the first time this morning. Im still not sure what ultimatly solved the no start as since the previous 8 second run a couple months ago, I have replaced the base gasket,  installed yet another new battery, replaced the "new" timing pickup with the original, re gapped the pickup to a much smaller (then credit card) gap, and cleaned the carb agian JIC.  The issue now is at idle (or lack there of).  The bike will fire right up using the electric start with a little throttle input (choke not pulled).  Once started I have to hold the trottle at around the 1/4 position to keep it running and will not idle without assistance. The engine revs fine from 1/4-3/4 throttle upto full open throttle is givin, at which time the bike begins to sputter. If I pull the choke cable the stalling attempt subsides. Ive tried adjusting the idle mix and speed screws haphazardly just to get a self sustaining idle, but the bike instantly dies     Any ideas what to try next?  Im planning on ordering new idle jets.

[BettinANDlosing]

If it runs on choke the idle jet is too lean, my Zuma With stock airbox takes a #45

[Triesandluth]

Awesome man!  Glad to hear that you've made some headway! 
I'd say to crank the idle to the max in attempt to keep it running then Jack with the mix,  but I'm sure you've already tried that.
 I'm still not sure how my 19mm arreche carb is good to go with the 20 idle jet with an extremely open airflow. I had a 38 idle jet in the stock carb, and a genuine that I worked on had a 45, stock all the way. 
I'm at the point that I'm happy with my carb as it is just to avoid having to relearn it's quirks. 
Anyways,  glad to hear,  hope it all comes together again before snowfall!

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