hello im new to kymco

[mudfreek]

ok thanks and as far as the fuel pump its the pitcock thingy screwed to the tank ive herd thats what its called on other scooter sites

[robmsz]

Petcock, as long as we know what your talking about is all that matters. This is all a learning experience!

Speaking of learning experience......

I bought a KZ 400 motorcycle and thought my petcock was plugged/broken. They usually have 3 positions on a motorcycle off,main and reserve. My petcock only seemed to flow on what seemed like was  the "off" position when I took the hose off the carb. The motorcycle new to me so I figured I would ride it like it was until I could replace it.

So I found a replacement gasket kit that cost me like $30 bucks only to find out (when I was ready to put it in) That it was an AUTOMATIC type of petcock!

D'oH !

That is exactly what the ZX-50 has....except the ZX-50 is fully automatic (need documentation though) meaning that it will only let the gas flow when the motor is (for lack of a better word) sucking for the gas.

IE; turning the motor over and  pulling a vacuum on the tank the gas will flow into the carb.

SO to answer your question......

That maybe a reason why it kick starts easier that the electric starts...

I say this because I notice sometimes when my MC sits for a week or so w/o starting it will take awhile to start unless I turn my petcock to "free flow" to get gas into the carb to get it started easily, then after that it will start ok providing I use it regularly and there is gas in the carb. bowl to get it going enough to start the petcock going again.

So yours just may need that extra whoomp of the kick start to get the gas flowing through the auto petcock and into you carb!

Now I'm not saying that this IS whats wrong with your bike but a possible scenario.

P.S. sorry this was so long but I try to explain EVERYTHING so it's easier to understand. I know if someone answers me in a sentence or two that I have a LOT of questions!

[mudfreek]

thank u for the info its helps understand it a lil more

[sidthesloth]

The 3 positions on your fuel tap would be prime, on and reserve. The prime is as it suggests and primes the carbs without the need for vacuum to open the tap to allow fuel to flow.

[robmsz]

The 3 positions on your fuel tap would be prime, on and reserve. The prime is as it suggests and primes the carbs without the need for vacuum to open the tap to allow fuel to flow.

Exactly, I have to put it on "prime" if it hasn't been started in awhile to get it started easier.

[zombie]

These kymco petcocks do go bad over time. It is activated by vacuum from the INTAKE manifold. There is a thin (1/8") hose that connects between a diaphragm on the petcock, and the intake manifold. Since there should always be fuel in the bowl of the carb. the vacuum should have no initial effect. What happens MOST of the time w/ hard starting on the electric start is... The voltage draw from the relay, and the starter motor reduces the voltage in the battery to the point the cdi does not get enough voltage to fire. so kick starting works when the elec. start does not. To test the petcock you can pull the thin hose off the intake, and the fuel line off the carb. Suck the end of the vacuum line, and fuel should flow freely out of the fuel line. I recently had an idle flooding issue, and found the diaphragm had ruptured leaving the fuel line open, and pulling fuel thru the vacuum line as well. I fixed it by getting a manual petcock from a Honda dealer in Tallahassee, and plugging the vacuum line at the manifold. Sorry if this is off topic, I just wanted to explain how it all works

[robmsz]

I don't know if this would have worked or not....

could you have just plugged the vacuum line on the kymco petcock?

[mudfreek]

now is there any way to ramp up the voltage enough so i would have no issues with the electrical system 

[zombie]

For Rob, Yeah, but then I would have no way to shut the petcock off, and in MY case it was allready stuck in the open position. So it was no good to begin with. For Mudfreak, My stock battery was a H-4, and I use an H-5 now. I don't have an electric starter anymore but the scoot is always solid on the electrics. You may be able to upgrade your battery in the same way. Go w/ the biggest size you can fit in the compartment, and also go for a gell cell type vs the lead acid.

[mudfreek]

well i figured out one of my running issues that i had b4 my cdi took a crap i would be goin down the road wot and the scoot would just start dying like it was over fueling or something it would just bog out after it just nearly stalled out it would rev back up and no issues for a couple of days or a week when i put my new cdi on i deristricted it and guess what same thing so i decided to take the the two green wired back apart from each other and i havent had any more issues but unfortunatly i can only go 35 any thing over and the bike kinda spits a lil bit

[thebatman]

i have actually experianced that going down a long hill at wot, seemed to cut out sortof similar to a rev limiter, but never any issue after that spot...    did you order an oem cdi??  aftermarket ones are normally unresticted from the get go..     maybe we need one tuned to higher rpms???   

[robmsz]

It's that pesky original CDI acting up again..? I just REALLY hope that's what my problem is?

It seems that little black box makes scooters do mysterious things...

[thebatman]

well i hope mine stays ok fir a bit, got a touch of engine work mon/tues.... woo hooooo!!!..wanna test it real good and of course redo(again) cvt...lol........

[zombie]

You just may be too lean on the top end rob. Try opening your jet, and see what it does. The factory jet is set up for the limited rpm's of the restricted cdi. Once you de-restrict you also need more fuel to keep the temp. down

[mudfreek]

my jet is a 90 what size jet would i need or drill bit size to go bigger?