Author Topic: 2009 grand vista electrical starting problem  (Read 2983 times)

FOG

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2009 grand vista electrical starting problem
« on: June 21, 2016, 09:10:46 PM »
New member here with a 2009 GV. When doing a net search i found this post by mrbios.It describes my exact problem..
PROBLEM:
When I push the starter button nothing happens.  The battery is fine.  I'm holding the break lever and the kickstand is up and then I keep pushing the starter button sometimes I turn the ignition key on and off then suddenly it starts up fine. 

mrbios apparently  found a faulty stop switch, repaired it and life was good. My kymco dealer (who i no longer trust) confirmed i needed a new stop switch so i replaced both front and rear switches. My problem is NOT solved and  is intermittent making it even harder to diagnose and solve.
 This is what happens.. I turn on the ignition and the instrument panel lights up. Kickstand up, pull in break lever and push start switch, and the instrument panel goes and stays dark and i have a no start.
 I have found if I push starter in and pumped the brake lever a bunch of times turn the ignition key on and off the starter suddenly works as does the instrument panel  , and off i go with no further problems until the next time the problem occurs. Which might be days or hours later.

  Suggestions anyone??
 

CROSSBOLT

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Re: 2009 grand vista electrical starting problem
« Reply #1 on: June 21, 2016, 10:21:05 PM »
Do you (or anyone here) have a wiring diagram of this machine? I suspect the ignition switch. Got a multimeter?

Karl
 
Karl

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FOG

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Re: 2009 grand vista electrical starting problem
« Reply #2 on: June 21, 2016, 11:16:36 PM »
Karl I do not have a multimeter I DO have a service manual which I believe has a wiring diagram.. I should clarify that it will sometimes start just by pressing the start button multiple times with out having turned the ignition key on and off. I wonder if I could hot wire it (bypass the ignition switch)  to eliminate the ignition switch as the cause?
 I suppose I could buy a multimeter tho i,ve never used one so I dunno if it would help me.

CROSSBOLT

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Re: 2009 grand vista electrical starting problem
« Reply #3 on: June 22, 2016, 01:49:40 AM »
I'm kinda funny about things not working today when they worked properly yesterday. I want to know the cause and correct it. I've been in operational jams where "jury-rigging" was necessary for the mission. This ain't it. Let's find out what has caused the problem and correct it.

Karl
Karl

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FOG

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Re: 2009 grand vista electrical starting problem
« Reply #4 on: June 22, 2016, 08:22:36 PM »
I am all for finding out what the problem is. My thought on the ignition switch was to confirm or deny that it is the problem or is not. I am open to suggestions on how to diagnos this problem.

CROSSBOLT

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Re: 2009 grand vista electrical starting problem
« Reply #5 on: June 22, 2016, 10:06:03 PM »
First, get a multimeter. Wal-mart has several for less than twenty bucks. Any one will do. Once you get that start with "proving" each switch. That means PROVE each switch turn on and off when it is supposed to. That will be done on the resistance scale with the smallest number usually 200 on the digital meters. Ya gotta short the leads together to find out how much resistance is in the test leads, THEN test the switch. There should be no increase in resistance when the switch is ON measured at the switch terminals. There should be a "1" all the way to the left on most digitals. We will start there and see how you do. The switches to test are each brake, start, side stand (if equipped) and the engine run/off switch.

Karl
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mrbios

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Re: 2009 grand vista electrical starting problem
« Reply #6 on: September 15, 2016, 06:39:42 PM »
...
mrbios apparently  found a faulty stop switch, repaired it and life was good. My kymco dealer (who i no longer trust) confirmed i needed a new stop switch so i replaced both front and rear switches. My problem is NOT solved and  is intermittent making it even harder to diagnose and solve.
...
  Suggestions anyone??

Mind boggling - replacing the kill switch?  The reason it could not be the kill switch is if the ks fails you will not be able to ground the CDI and stop the engine while it is running except by putting the kick stand down or turning the key off but a failed kill switch won't prevent the scooter from starting (unless it is stuck in the off position but that was not the problem in your case).

You need to either replace  ($22) your brake light switch OR take it apart and clean it - the dead give away is that it starts after pumping the break that is because there is corrosion in the brake light switch.  Remember, when you press the brake lever the BRAKE LIGHT MUST COME ON!  If it does not (assuming the brake light bulb is not burned out) THEN the brake light switch is NOT working. 

As a shortcut:
1. Press the RIGHT brake lever - does the rear brake light come on?  If so the starter should start.  If no brake light ... [I could not do this on my atv because it only has ONE brake lever on the left that controls both front and rear brakes!]
2. You can disconnect the two spade connections that go to the switch (either one) and connect them together which will make your brake light come on and stay on.  If that fixes it then work on or replace the switch. 

The reason the switch fails is that the contacts are normally open or separated and ONLY close when you press the brake lever - which is when you hear the click.  Being apart all the time makes it easy for moisture to settle on the contact surface and corrode.  Even where I live - we get almost no rain 3/4 of the year and i drive my scoot almost everyday the problem still happens.

This problem affects many brands of motorcycles / scooters which use the same basic design.  My 2007 Chinese Fuxin Brand 110cc ATV had the exact same problem but because it was in very bad shape from years of sitting the brake light cable was broken off so and bulb fried from too much voltage (18.3v and high rpm) I bypassed the switch by hooking the two wires that connect to the switch together and the starter worked.  Then I cleaned and grease it problem solved.  It only cost $2 but it was quicker to clean and grease it.

I recommend replacing the switch and injecting some dielectric grease in the new switch to prevent it from corroding.  The problem is Kymco uses a cheap switch and NO contact grease so it corrodes over time whether the scoot is driven or not.

Remember the switch serves two important purposes related to safety:
1. When it forces you to hold the brake when pressing the strater (remember our scoots are always "in gear")
2. It turns on the brake light so people know you are slowing down.

When it breaks it won't let you start the engine & also lets you know when you tap the left brake lever the brake light is NOT working so cars don't know you are slowing down (unless you press the right brake lever.
« Last Edit: September 15, 2016, 07:01:27 PM by mrbios »
PaulC

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