What? Shop manual inaccurate? Take a look at the specs on pages 1.1, 2.1, and 6.1 in the shop manual and decide which set of valve clearance numbers printed on each of those three pages is the right one. However, I do have to think that since this engine type is popular in a lot of countries where the bike owners have more important things to fret about than optimum valve clearance, it's a fairly robust engine, and maybe I worry too much. Maybe the specs are just guidelines.
You and I were in the same mood the other day, Woodsrat. I took my Pipe over to my cabin in Ohio's Hocking Hills area. (One of the reasons I wanted a Monkey Bike was I wanted something light I could easily load in the back of my truck by myself and haul there). It's hilly there also; I was down to second gear a lot of times before peaking a hill. I did discover that the bike is skittish on gravel; I probably should have realized that would be a problem on such a light bike with skinny tires. I tried going down a very steep hill on a gravel road and quickly realized I was skating, not slowing, as soon as I applied the brakes. I ended up sideways before somehow, impressively, getting stopped without dropping the bike. Going back up the hill, I had to waddle-walk the bike, since the back tire was bucking and washboarding as it tried to gain traction on the gravel.
Believe it or not, I'm not complaining. As soon as I got back on level ground, I began thinking how much worse my day could have been had I been on the Kawasaki Concours that I used to have, one of the older ones with that huge, 7-gallon belly gas tank. I think I would have been in a world of pain on that road on that bike.