Electric problem

[nenadbilav]

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[xsel777]

Some details, buddy

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[CROSSBOLT]

Xsel is right: more info needed. Looks to me of a huge voltage drop while trying to start. That could be the reason the instruments go through self-test all over again.

Karl

[willembop]

Without any more information, I think that when you crank the starter, it is pulling the voltage down so low that the instrument panel is losing power, and the instruments recycle when you stop cranking (as they do when you first turn on the ignition). This could be caused by a bad starter drawing too much current, a loose or corroded battery connection causing a voltage drop, or a weak battery. Just a guess...

[bongoman]

Allow the electronics to fire up before cranking the engine. I wait for the battery light to go off, or I listen for the buzzing noise to click off. Booting up the electronics while headlight is on and cranking the engine at the same time is a big drain on battery. And will probably lead to premature stator failure.

Under a separate post, I wrote about switching to a Lithium battery. Lighter and lasts longer and is more expensive, until the cost is prorated over the life of the battery which is 4 to 5 years. And requires no battery tender in winter for the majority of users.

[willembop]

Bongoman:  You are right about the lithium battery. I put one in mine and now have no trouble starting in cold weather. And it doesn't matter if it sits for a week or more (or maybe longer -- haven't had that much time yet). I went with the Battery Tender brand, which I got on Amazon for only $101. Not sure why it was so cheap, but it's up to $109 now. The one I have is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F9LPJ8S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It's physically tiny but cranks the engine great.