LIKE200i rear wheel removal, REVISED

[Stig / Major Tom]

Replaced rear tire on my 2012 LIKE200i.


Tools & parts I had to obtain:
Michelin 130/70-12 Reinforced Power Pure tire & new valve stem
Axle bearing 6203 LU
SEAR's cordless impact wrench
Two prong puller

Problems encountered & solution :
stuck 24mm rear axle nut....$89 Sear's impact wrench
stuck rear swing arm fork ......$5 two-prong puller
Took the wheel, new tire, fork and new fork bearing to a friendly Vespa dealer 1/2 hour distant. Job was ready same day, with old bearing pressed out and new pressed in, tire & valve stem mounted for $35. He had the proper equipment for both jobs.

Years ago I bought a box of clean hardware stripped from a new, wrecked, LIKE200i.



I unclipped the O2 sensor from the wiring harness ,to prevent damage to wire.







Washed all parts as they came off, bagged new hardware, painted exhaust with heat paint.


Removed 3 fasteners to free the fender hugger. Left one is buried under air-filter box -

Right one...



Loosen the 24mm axle nut. Hold rear brake....or use impact wrench.
Remove fastener supporting brake line; remove bottom shock bolt; remove 2 caliper bolts & lift off caliper.


Remove 2 small fork bolts and 24mm nut & remove fork from axle. Mine was stuck slightly. Came off easily with a 2 prong puller - be gentle!


Push shock out of the way, remove dip-stick to clear the wheel, slide off wheel and clean everything you can reach under there! Pay attention to the order of the hardware.








Stig

[tortoise]

Problems encountered & solution :
stuck 24mm rear axle nut....$89 Sear's impact wrench

Interesting . . 150 ft-lb versus 200 ft-lb

For others curious . . the Harbor Freight corded impacts spec 230 ft-lb . . but those lack the potential benefit of a deficient combusting battery pack to provide a supplemental heating resource.

EXCELLENT post . . your effort is much appreciated!

[vespbretta]

Thanks a lot Tom! Excellent as ever. 
That rear wheel nut loooks really raped...good that you had a new one ready to install.
Very good idea to respray the exhaust with heatresistant paint. Would also have done that.
Good to know that the rear right shock can stay in place and doesn´t have to be removed totally.
Your scooter always looks so so clean, like new.
And the new sexy Tire makes the scooter even more attractive. Have you planned to put Power Pures to the Front as well?
Or will you ride on two different tires from now on (M-CG/M-PP)?

Your picture of the cylinder outlet does show already the new gasket installed or the old one? Is the gasket somehow seated/pressed in there?
So when you want to change it, you will have to pull the old one out first from the flange? See attached pic.
Cyclepedia offers no pics for that part of the install/uninstall process. Thats why I am asking.
Can you pls post the Dimensions of the OEM gasket? Inner/Outer Diameter, Thickness, etc. in mm?
Old gasket looks different than the new ones.

[Stig / Major Tom]

Interesting . . 150 ft-lb versus 200 ft-lb

For others curious . . the Harbor Freight corded impacts spec 230 ft-lb . . but those lack the potential benefit of a deficient combusting battery pack to provide a supplemental heating resource.

EXCELLENT post . . your effort is much appreciated!

Interesting . . 150 ft-lb versus 200 ft-lb

For others curious . . the Harbor Freight corded impacts spec 230 ft-lb . . but those lack the potential benefit of a deficient combusting battery pack to provide a supplemental heating resource.

EXCELLENT post . . your effort is much appreciated!

Thanks Tortoise,
But the issue with the harbor freight wrench was not that it had insufficient  power  to remove the axle nut.....it is that it quit functioning in any manner. It just hummed a bit and ...if you shook it and held your mouth just right it would move every once in a while.
 It removed 2 scooter nuts, well....two more after a lot of screwing about.....and then it was d e a d...except for a bit of stationary humming.
I hope to beejeepers I  did not really spend more than $5 for this thing, but am afraid I  might have. (purchased it a couple yrs ago)
I cut the cord off for later use....the rest of it went in last week's recycle bin.
4 scooter nuts wore it out. Was about $6 per nut....and about one hour of work for nuts #3 & #4.
Stig

[Stig / Major Tom]

Thanks a lot Tom! Excellent as ever. 
That rear wheel nut loooks really raped...good that you had a new one ready to install.
Very good idea to respray the exhaust with heatresistant paint. Would also have done that.
Good to know that the rear right shock can stay in place and doesn´t have to be removed totally.
Your scooter always looks so so clean, like new.
And the new sexy Tire makes the scooter even more attractive. Have you planned to put Power Pures to the Front as well?
Or will you ride on two different tires from now on (M-CG/M-PP)?

Your picture of the cylinder outlet does show already the new gasket installed or the old one? Is the gasket somehow seated/pressed in there?
So when you want to change it, you will have to pull the old one out first from the flange? See attached pic.
Cyclepedia offers no pics for that part of the install/uninstall process. Thats why I am asking.
Can you pls post the Dimensions of the OEM gasket? Inner/Outer Diameter, Thickness, etc. in mm?
Old gasket looks different than the new ones.

Hello Robo,
My pic shows new gasket in head......finger pulls out old one.
Bought gaskets for common GY6 size scooter, measure @30mm O.S. from a scooter shop. Not expensive.....don't  recall shop's name.
They fit well.
Stig

[TroutBum]

Stig,

When you replaced the bearing did you notice the condition of the originals? I'm keeping notes as to when I should replace items not part of the regular maintenance cycle. Thx.

[Stig / Major Tom]

Stig,

When you replaced the bearing did you notice the condition of the originals? I'm keeping notes as to when I should replace items not part of the regular maintenance cycle. Thx.

Trout,
The bearing  was $7 on ebay.
I thought the orig. was good....until I  removed the new bearing from its sealed package and compared the feel of the two. The orig. was pretty smooth...but actually felt a small roughness in comparison. So, glad I  had a replacement and a scooter shop willing to pop it in.
(NAPA used to do these little jobs, but stopped 9 mos. ago. They recommended a local machine shop. He said he'd do it for $30. Autozone will lend the tools to do it.)
I do not have proper sized socket to knock it in.
Noted that there is a  similar bearing on the inner side of the  axle.
Stig
Stig

[Mr. Paul]

That tire looks sharp Stig. I am anxious to hear how you like it.

[TroutBum]

Trout,
The bearing  was $7 on ebay.
I thought the orig. was good....until I  removed the new bearing from its sealed package and compared the feel of the two. The orig. was pretty smooth...but actually felt a small roughness in comparison. So, glad I  had a replacement and a scooter shop willing to pop it in.
(NAPA used to do these little jobs, but stopped 9 mos. ago. They recommended a local machine shop. He said he'd do it for $30. Autozone will lend the tools to do it.)
I do not have proper sized socket to knock it in.
Noted that there is a  similar bearing on the inner side of the  axle.
Stig
Stig

Thanks for the reply.

[vespbretta]

Yes  I am also curious to read how he likes the new sport shoes. 

@TroutBum and Mr. Paul and Tom

I don´t know yet, but maybe this bearing doesn´t sit so extremly tight because of the attached snapring on the inside of the fork, so that if you heat up the fork with a heat gun or hairdryer, it maybe will come off more or less by itself.
Similar thing with the reinstall. New bearing a few hours into the deep freezer and heating up the fork again short before installing the deep frozen new bearing. With a little bit of grease and luck it might fall in place by itself again. Attach snapring back into place and the job is done without any extra costs. Maybe also the old removed bearing could be used (deep frozen) to knock the new one easily in if a proper socket is not available.

I will report, when I am going to do the tire- and bearingchange on my scooter. Parts, tools and tires already arrived here, just waiting for warmer weather in my personal comfortzone. 

[TroutBum]

The freeze/heat method works at least in videos I've seen. I did read somewhere that the heat needs to cool down naturally and not forced.  Please do keep us posted vespbretta. More tips in our toolbox so to speak makes us DIYers life easier. And hopefully give us more time to ride. 

[Stig / Major Tom]

The freeze/heat method works at least in videos I've seen. I did read somewhere that the heat needs to cool down naturally and not forced.  Please do keep us posted vespbretta. More tips in our toolbox so to speak makes us DIYers life easier. And hopefully give us more time to ride. 

Cyclepedia mentions this cold/heat bearing thing in the instructions for the front wheel. And that was a tough little snap ring.
My concern was the thick casting of the fork which would need to be heated - and also possible damage to the admittedly distant pivot bushing....plus the need to buy yet another tool for this tire swap.
 When the Vespa tech. agreed that it would be a simple task for his press...I decided to 'Keep Calm & Carry On' ... let him do it.
I dropped off the wheel & fork early and was heading out for full day of Prom Dress shopping with my daughter....
7.5 hrs later we were both ecstatic. She with a pretty dress & me with my new scooter stuff and a happy female!
One must choose carefully your battles.
Stig

[TroutBum]

I have my wife deal with the daughter on such matters. I value my life too much to risk failure. 

[kjems]

Any chance to get these images showing again. Most are not visible here on my screen anyway?

Kindly Jesper

[Stig / Major Tom]

Any chance to get these images showing again. Most are not visible here on my screen anyway?

Kindly Jesper

Whew..! OK Jesper…
I think I was able to rebuild this rear wheel removal. (glad my wife saved my pix!)
LMK if it needs something...

Stig