From where I sit, lacking all the information, in an ancient thread, ...lol
Adjusting that idle mix isn't going to make much difference.
It will be necessary to pull the carb, at least enough to roll it over and remove the main jet from inside the float bowl.
You will need to work with it, so write down the number stamped on it representing the jet size.
You might begin selecting the replacement main jet by purchasing one that is 4 or 5 digits higher than the existing one. This will lean out the air/fuel mix at higher operating speeds, and down through mid-range. Re-assemble and go for a speed run.
If it spits back out of the intake at high speed, the main jet is now too small. Allow the engine to cool as you motor back to your shop and do not run the engine while it is set up lean. This can be bad for the engine.
Of course it would have been better to purchase 2 or 3 additional jets, when you were at the parts dealer, but it gets kinda pricey, and it's most likely you will never use them again, unless you make a serious change to the exhaust system, or install expensive performance parts within the engine.
Chances are, the dealership may not have jets in the size you require.
There is another option.
First, you must have the tools on hand to do the work.
A decent soldering iron, flux, and solder, and a number drill set with pin vice, in the range necessary... and this goes back to, you must disassemble to find out what is in there, before anything may be done.
If running rich at WOT, you may determine by trial and error, which of your small drill bits is a proper fit for the main jet.
Assure yourself you have the consecutive drills smaller than that size.
Solder the main jet closed, then drill though the solder in a smaller size. Perhaps 4 sizes smaller.
If it shows a lean running condition at WOT, pass the next drill size up, through that solder and run again.
You must retune the idle mix each time you do this, but it will be a quick process, since you should already be reasonably close.
Some main jet needles have a selection of circular grooves near the top where a circlip adjusts the height of the needle, controlling flow from the main jet for mid to high range ratio. A groove closer to the top of the needle will make it leaner, lower down will make it richer.
Better to be a very little bit rich than lean, which builds heat to quickly.
There are also needles with different tapers and they interact with the main jet like a finger in the dike, As the needle within the slide is withdraw upwards, a change in the taper will influence fuel flow.
There are a number of other things to fiddle with, if you are heading towards the winning circle, yet that is beyond the scope here.
it is most likely you will not need to replace your needle or the emulsion tube.
redk