Venox Clutch Noise; Irregular Rotation Freedom/Resistance

[mummyjohn]

I've had a 2003 Venox 250 for about six months now.  Immediately when I bought the bike I took it over to a respected local shop and had them put on a new rear tyre and do a general inspection; they said aside from getting the chain lubed it was absolutely fine.

Since then some annoying noises have developed.  In the linked video you can hear a slight noise that becomes present when the clutch is released vs pulled (engaged vs. disengaged).  The noise is present when the clutch is engaged.

Secondly, when the output sprocket rotates it sounds like a drum full of balls rattling and churning around.  What the heck's that about?  This is not in the video as there was no good way to record it.

Finally, also in the video, how freely the rear wheel rotates is not constant.  You can see in the clip that I spin it with my hand (bike is off and in neutral) and sometimes it keeps spinning more, sometimes it stops more readily.  I don't know where to even begin looking for the cause of this non-uniform resistance.

P.S. If anyone lives in Southern California and would like to visit and hear/see it for themselves, possibly teach me a thing or two, I would be more than open to strike a deal.  Thanks for ANY help or advice you guys have!

VIDEO:

[MJR]

Not sure on the noise (can't hear real well on the video). The rear wheel could just be some uneven wear in the rear what looks like drum brake. Where in So Cal are you? I do not have any real experience with motorcycle drivetrain as I'm a maxi scooter guy but I'm curious. I'm down in Costa Mesa.

[vespbretta]

What exactely has been done on this "general inspection" by the dealer?

If an oilchange was made, with which engine oil? Some engine oils reduce the mecanical noises, some increase it. But as far as what I can hear on the video, nothing scary yet. Little mecanical noises on mecanical machines are ok.
Maybe they also adjusted the rear drum brakes free play. And set it a tiny little bit too tight. You can loosen it yourself one turn or two on that rod next to the drum on the right side. So that the drum can turn the wheel freely all the time. Drum might be a tiny little bit out of round. Not a big deal also.
Sometimes also the chainlinks aren´t lubed equally inside and aren´t moving as easily and freely the same way as the others do, and then you might experience this kind of behaviour when turning the rear  wheel by hand. Nothing special here too. Just lube regularily.
Except they didn´t set the chain tension correctly after the tire change. This would be a problem. The correct chain tension setting process of how it is measured (free play) and set correctly should be explained in the owners manual.
Chains and sprockets do wear also. After a certain amount of some thousand miles they need to be replaced. Just to be mentioned.
But I am sure the service shop would have mentioned that if this was necessary.

[Redk]

+1
What Vespbretta said.
redk