4/9/16 Bought new
4/13/16, 140 miles, Clutch and or drive belt started slipping.
4/16/16, 188 miles, Bert's Mega Mall, Dropped off for repair, service advisor suggested that the bike was new and still breaking in, I didn't feel he took me seriously.
4/20/16, Service advisor said some excess assembly grease was causing the problem and that Kymco didn't want to replace any parts, just clean them as see if it happens again. Wasn't happy and didn't believe that was the cause just end result. I asked for the clutch to be replaced and they said no and didn't see how grease would have ended up on the clutch friction pads being inside the clutch bell (smaller diameter). I saw some hot spots and discoloration in the clutch pads.
4/21/16, Called Kymco USA, a woman answered and said I needed to talk with a representative, she asked where I was calling from and transferred me to another number which went to voice mail for Chip Johnson, I left a message.
4/22/16, No response from Kymco USA, emailed them and received a response from Steven Oliver saying Chip was on vacation. Nice of the receptionist to transfer me to the voice mail of a rep on vacation eh. Steven was very professional.
4/23/16, Went to Bert's to have a look at it while it was apart, was cleaned up and light clutch pad sanding. It looked ok so I waited while they put it back together. Test rode it and was better but I could still feel slippage, not right. Talking with the service advisor he once again suggested it was new and still breaking in. Feeling I wasn't being taken seriously I decided to take the bike home.
5/5/16, 400 miles, dropped bike of at Malcolm Smith Motorsports for continued slipping on take off.
5/28/16, 400 miles picked up bike from Malcolm Smith Motorsports, clutch and bell were replaced and bike once again felt normal as when I had bought it. This is the part I thought should have been replaced but the regular rep Chip had come back from vacation and through likely bad information from the service guys at Bert's didn't want to replace it. Malcolm Smith made it happen.
6/27/17, 1,060 miles, came out for lunch and electronic adjustable shocks were set to firm (I keep them on soft) and would not adjust back.
6/30/16, came home and removed rear body, I found by unplugging the right rear shock the system would adjust, bad right rear shock (motor part of shock.
7/2/16, 1,140 miles, dropped off at Malcolm Smith for right rear shock replacement.
7/26/16, bike ready to be picked up, right rear shock replaced and bike works as normal.
?, 2,984 miles noticed oil seeping from the CVT cover ad the bottom near the rear wheel, opened CVT and found oil apparently leaking from the rear final drive past seals into case and CVT cooling fan blowing it around. I had noticed some slippage on take offs after extended freeway runs. This I'm sure has been my problem since 140 miles that Bert's didn't track down.
?, 2,984 miles Malcolm Smith replaced the seals and cleaned up inside the CVT. At 3,833 miles I pulled the CVT cover to find it was now dry inside so this has been finally repaired.
6/21/17, 5,322 miles bike stalled on me heading home, restarted. My first thought was I am staring to have a problem like another MyRoad owner in Escondido who's bike died and wouldn't restart for an hour. His scoot died on 5/13/17 and he had it towed into the dealer on 5/14/17 so wow its been almost two months!
6/27/17, 5,326 miles, noticed LED trunk light flickering randomly before i started the bike, bike died again, restarted. Later while riding on the freeway in the carpool lane bike died and I coasted to the side of the road, didn't want to restart and just cranked over. Finally got it restarted and rode it home on surface streets. The check engine light flashed 2-4-2-4.
7/12/17, 5,374 miles, emailing back and forth with the reps, I told them it needs a trunk light and likely a crank sensor, asked for VIN, said it was still under warranty (thought it was parts only at this point but thanks to Stig posting Kymco warranty information I dug out my owners pack). The rep suggested working on it myself might void my warranty. I replied back that my 30 years of experience included making wiring harnesses for concept cars such as the Plymouth Prowler concept among many others not only that but 2/3 of that time as a Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep mechanic specializing in A/C, electrical, and driveability.
I removed the rear body panels. Tested power to the trunk light with a voltmeter, test light, and another 12 volt LED panel I had. All agree the voltage to the light is fine and the problem is with a failing LED in the light itself. If I start the bike on the center stand cold it will run for 8 minutes, the engine will stall, and it does not want to start for several minutes. When it won't start I confirmed that I have no spark (used a spare plug against the cylinder head cover). Once the bike cools a bit I get spark back and the bike will run. The check engine light will flash out 2-2-2-2. Based on my years of experience working on Jeeps I suspect the crank sensor. Looking through the factory service manual a code 02 is loss of crank signal. So one of the tricks I learned many years ago with the Jeeps was when a crank sensor was a problem and the engine died when hot pouring some cold water on it allowed the engine to restart right away. I tried this on the outside of the MyRoad but the sensor is in the side case almost all the way. I removed the crank sensor bolt and ran the bike until it died. I immediately pulled the crank sensor out, dunked it into a glass of cold water for 5 seconds, wiped it dry, and put it back in. Result the bike would restart immediately rather than having to wait several minutes suggesting to me that is the issue. Crank sensors can fail two ways on the Jeeps. The early ones were a two wire small AC voltage generating signal. These would heat cycle over years eventually leading to the wire inside breaking. So they would get hot and go open circuit until it cooled down again. The later type (like the one on the MyRoad) used a 3 wire powered sensor. When these type failed you could either loose the signal from it or it could short out the power feed from the engine controller (5 volt in Jeeps but it appears Kymco uses 12 volts) which would pull down power to all the other shared power sensors which could also result in being unable to communicate with the engine controller via a scan tool (often those who didn't know that would like the engine controller was bad but all you needed to do was unplug the bad crank sensor and then you can communicate via the scan tool). Since I earlier got a code 02 (no crank signal) and 04 (no power to sensors) I suspect the crank sensor is shortin out the sensor voltage from the ECU affects the others.
7/14/17, 5,385 miles, dropped bike off at Malcom Smith for trunk light and stalling.
7/17/17, Received a email this morning asking for the mileage on the scoot and that the rep would call Malcolm Smith Motorsports and check on it. Second email later that the bike is scheduled to be looked at tomorrow.
7/19/17, Went out to Malcom Smith today to talk to the tech and advisor. The tech pulled the same code 02 I did, the only issue seems to be his information says it's the cam sensor (same part as the crank just used in the rocker cover). I showed him my Kymco manual it's a crank sensor but it will work in either place if he finds out its the crank one. I guess he pulled the rocker cover to check the tone wheel also which was fine. I guess the rep is out of the office this week so I said go ahead and order the parts and if there is a problem with Kymco I'll cover it. That way I don't have to wait a week if the reps out.
On a side note it sounds as though Malcolm Smith might drop Kymco. It sounds like they might nit be taking care of the dealers.
More to come will edit as I have time
