Carburetor Questions.

[Ernst]

My 2010 People S 250 is at about 20,000 miles now and has problems during idle.
Taking this one step at a time, it is time to clean the Carburetor I believe. Once scooter would not go faster than 40 MPH with throttle wide open.  I read that would be a dirty carburetor. Now Scooter Idles rough and there is a clunking at times from what I suspect is the clutch and scooter stops running at idle. 
  I figure to take this one step at a time.  Not sure why there is a clunking sound at times and Scooter stops running but I plan to start with the Carburetor first.
 I have never worked on Carburetors so this concerns me. Perhaps I would be better off replacing Carburetor? I like that idea over rebuilding it myself.

Advice ?

[Mr. Paul]

Chances are your carburetor just needs to be cleaned, not rebuilt. It is a fairly easy thing to do and it costs almost nothing. There are lots of videos on YouTube on how to do it. Pay special attention to cleaning the jets using  a cleaner spray and a small wire. Usually ethanol gunks up the very, very, small holes and restricts fuel flow. Once that is done I suspect your idle will be a lot better and that should take care of your clutch issue as well. I would not buy a replacement carb. The stock carburetor is superior to any of the aftermarket ones. It just needs a little TLC.

[stuo]

I second Mr. Paul's motion...

[stuo]

P.S. If you mess up trying to clean the carb you can always buy a new one so why not learn how and save big bucks, too?

[Mr. Paul]

P.S. If you mess up trying to clean the carb you can always buy a new one so why not learn how and save big bucks, too?

Helpful hint; Use the correct size screw driver removing the four bolts on the bottom of the carburater bowl. The phillips grooves are easily stripped. If that does happen, I have found that vice grips does the job.

[ScooterLar]

Use a t-handle screwdriver instead of a conventional one. You'll get better torque on the screw head and it won't strip it.

[Mr. Paul]

Use a t-handle screwdriver instead of a conventional one. You'll get better torque on the screw head and it won't strip it.

Great idea!

[stuo]

Now you tell me! I stripped one of those bowl screws before using the impact screw driver on the others...or whack the handle of your phillips once or twice before putting the grunt to them if you don't have an impact screw driver. Why are they so damn tight?

[Ernst]

Thank you all.

 I have decided to get a Carburetor from Kymco and then learn to clean the one I have.  I have only the scooter for transportation so it makes sense to have a spare carburetor ready to go.
 I figured out how to navigate KymcoUSA.com's parts page too.
 I also ordered front rotors.

 I'll try and share my experiences to help others.

[Mr. Paul]

Thank you all.

 I have decided to get a Carburetor from Kymco and then learn to clean the one I have.  I have only the scooter for transportation so it makes sense to have a spare carburetor ready to go.
 I figured out how to navigate KymcoUSA.com's parts page too.
 I also ordered front rotors.

 I'll try and share my experiences to help others.

Thanks for the update Ernst! I am glad you got a Kymco carb. Most of the after-market ones are not as good.

[Ernst]

Thanks for the update Ernst! I am glad you got a Kymco carb. Most of the after-market ones are not as good.

Well thank you guys! I hope to have one.  Chaparral Motorsports is yet to process my order.

Great weather here so I will try to get the scooter all fixed up. Got an electrical problem as well.  Different thread.

[Ernst]

Okayguys; Got the new carburetor from Kymco.
I installed it and sadly still have that idle problem and clunk issue.
Tomorrow I adjust the valves with the new valve tool and a new feeler gauge set.  I'll see if using better tools makes a difference.

I have a question about a hose on the bottom of the carburetor.

see attachment.

That was dangling and I don't see where the hose went. It seems to be vacuum related. 

[Ernst]

Okay I don't get it!

New Carburetor was working okay. It had a bit of a drag on it to get going and was not working 100% BUT Half way on a 20 mile run it stopped running.
 Now it will start and run until it warms up then dies and I must wait until the bike is cool again before it starts once more then quits running once warm.

Any ideas on what has happened?

[hypophthalmus]

How long until it stalls out now? Is the oil light on when you're driving? How's the temperature gauge?
Did you ever figure out where that hose is supposed to go?
Did you check the valve clearances?

How's the oil level / condition?
How does the spark plug look? Have you checked the gap?

What do you mean when you say it had drag on it? Hesitating, lacking power?

Assuming the valve clearances are fine:
I might suspect that the choke is staying closed, except that it's a new caburetor and I assume a new choke.
I'd be wary that the engine is overheating.
Or maybe something wrong with the ignition system?

The rough idle could have more causes.

[Mr. Paul]

Was the carb a genuine Kymco one? If not, try taking your choke off of the original carb and place it in the new one.