Drive wheel idling and moving at 2,000 with no throttle while on center stand

[ClayMation]

So,
 
Yesterday, after having driven my girlfriend to some Job interviews, right after we got to the second interview I noticed the bike bouncing and vibrating a lot when I pulled into the parking lot of our destination.

Usually when I set the bike into a parking spot, I center it using my legs with no throttle but the bike wasn't moving at all.

I noticed that the drive wheel was "locked" and wouldn't free roll. So I checked the parking break and it was not engaged so I knew it wasn't that.

Then I placed the bike in the center stand and started up the engine, noticed that the back wheel was moving kind of fast for normal idle.

So I drove it over to Berts Mega mall in West Covina and they're going to do an "inspection" before my 8,000 mile service next Friday.

My best guess till then? Something stuck in the drive assembly? Maybe dirt? Maybe the rollers are messed up and it's causing the rpms to pull slightly higher when idled?

What are your thoughts fellow riders?

[ole two wheels]

When things are working as the should with a CVT the back wheel will not rotate at idle, while on the center stand. Just a small amount of throttle input will start it moving, however.

[willembop]

Sounds like something broken in the clutch. Maybe a spring let go.

[ClayMation]

Sounds like something broken in the clutch. Maybe a spring let go.

That's one common idea I am hearing. Something with the Clutch.

I suppose I will not know for certain until they do their almighty inspection on Friday the 12th.

Till then, it is still driving okay, just feels slightly vibratory when coming to a stop.

[axy]

This has nothing to do with the clutch. I don't know if you have EFI or carb.

If it's EFI, idle speed has to be checked and/or adjusted, along with check of all sensors contributing to idle speed management.

If it's carb, the same should be done. Carbed engines also have idle speed enricher ("auto-choke") that might have gotten stuck and did not lower revs when the engine was warmed up.

[jeeves]

Could be the big nut holding
the spring in place on the clutch got loose.
Happened to me twice. The scoot runs fine, but when you try to stop,  it starts jerking and bouncing because the clutch is still engaged. 

Will try to find a picture to show you what I mean.

Ok, found a video on how to remove the big ol nut

[ClayMation]

This has nothing to do with the clutch. I don't know if you have EFI or carb.

If it's EFI, idle speed has to be checked and/or adjusted, along with check of all sensors contributing to idle speed management.

If it's carb, the same should be done. Carbed engines also have idle speed enricher ("auto-choke") that might have gotten stuck and did not lower revs when the engine was warmed up.

What I am wondering is how does this create so much free rolling resistance in the drive wheel?

Sometimes it acts almost locked.

[axy]

The fact that final drive is engaged by roller weights, belt and clutch due to increased revs.

[ClayMation]

The fact that final drive is engaged by roller weights, belt and clutch due to increased revs.

Did you also experience this free rolling resistance?

[ClayMation]

The fact that final drive is engaged by roller weights, belt and clutch due to increased revs.

My biggest question right now is, why is it coming and going? Like, it was there for like 4 days straight now the past 2 days it's not there.

It's a mystery to me.

[stuo]

2000rpm seems a bit high for idle speed; the manual says 1700 for my scoots so maybe you need to slow the idle a wee bit.

[ClayMation]

Update:

My Bike has been at the dealership for a week and will be there till Wednesday because the servicemen are awaiting the arrival of my new THROTTLE ASSEMBLY!

Yup, apparently the nut that holds everything in place wasn't properly torqued at the factory and came loose, thus stripping the threads at the end of it!

Now I have to wait another 5 days to get it back, but at least Kymco is covering the costs.

The turnover for waiting for parts though has me thinking my next bike should be a Yamaha or Honda!

Primarily because my Kymco isn't a weekend hobby for me here in SOCAL it's my daily commuter.

[Stig / Major Tom]

Sorry to hear,
Used 400 Burgman's go for a song in some parts of the country.
It will do whatever that 500 could do....and are supposed to be industriously reliable.
The equivalent Honda would have to be a bike...no new mid to big scoots.
Would a 300 or 400 Kymco do?
Stig

[ClayMation]

I'm not sure I understand.

I am getting my bike back on Wednesday or Thursday after the part arrives and the labour is conducted.

If I go for a Honda next it would be the Vultus NM4 which is both a manual and a automatic, about 52 HP and top speed of about 110 miles per hour (electronically limited I presume).

If I went with a Burgman I definitely would not get less than a 650.

[jeeves]

I'm not sure I understand.

I am getting my bike back on Wednesday or Thursday after the part arrives and the labour is conducted.

If I go for a Honda next it would be the Vultus NM4 which is both a manual and a automatic, about 52 HP and top speed of about 110 miles per hour (electronically limited I presume).

If I went with a Burgman I definitely would not get less than a 650.

Do you have the Integra 750 in the US?
Same engine as the Vultus but more motorcycle like in handling.

http://www.honda.co.uk/motorcycles/range/scooter/Integra-2016/overview.html

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