New member with a troublesome Xciting 250i 2007

[szabgab]

Where is the connector for the Kymco analyzer tool and what does it look like?

Hi Crossbolt, it sits next to the battery, to me it looks like any car/motorbike electric connector...

[szabgab]

Now  then...  Injector back from cleaners,  they were a strange bunch and did not want to show me the cleaning rig,  it was all very suspicious.  Anyway,  I hooked it up,  the bike did not want to start at all,  and thrown a code 33 at me (if I deciphered the three long three short blinks correctly).  I have taken the injector out,  it did sprayed petrol just fine and have read 11.1 Ohms,  which is just about right according to the service manual.  I put the injector back,  tried to start engine and it did start as it is has done ever since, however the check engine light is on since and upon start it blinks the same code.  How should I go about resetting the ECU,  should I reset it,  abd if the problem is still there,  will it be un-resettabble?

Thank you! 

[szabgab]

Now  then...  Injector back from cleaners,  they were a strange bunch and did not want to show me the cleaning rig,  it was all very suspicious.  Anyway,  I hooked up it,  the bike did not want to start at all,  and thrown a code 33 at me (if I deciphered the three long three short blinks correctly).  I have taken the injector out,  it did sprayed petrol just fine and have read 11.1 Ohms,  which is right according to the service manual.  I put the injector back,  tried to start engine and it did start as it is ever since, however the check engine light is on since and upon start it blinks the same code.  How should I go about resetting the ECU,  should I reset it,  abd if the problem is still there,  will it be un-resettabble?

Thank you!

OK, I know, what I did wrong, a) used the resetting procedure of a People 200, and that did not cut it for the Xciting b) I did not use the search button here on the forum. The 10sec off 10 sec on did the trick, there is no check engine symbol and flashing linght on start-up, I hope, it stays that way.

Needless to say, with the fuel strainer back on the bike needs three primes again to start.

Dear oh dear...

[Forbes1964]

Just one other fuel related idea. I’m not certain if you stated that the scooter now runs fine except for the delay in starting or not. But the fuel system needs pressure and volume. If you can find and connect a fuel pressure gauge, that will be most helpful. If the pressure is low, of if it takes too long to prime, that suggests a fuel pump issue. I’ve seen automobiles that ran ok but had starting issues and/or lean running issues because of a weak fuel pump or weak pressure regulator. Until fuel pressure is verified, you may just be guessing.


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[szabgab]

Just one other fuel related idea. I’m not certain if you stated that the scooter now runs fine except for the delay in starting or not. But the fuel system needs pressure and volume. If you can find and connect a fuel pressure gauge, that will be most helpful. If the pressure is low, of if it takes too long to prime, that suggests a fuel pump issue. I’ve seen automobiles that ran ok but had starting issues and/or lean running issues because of a weak fuel pump or weak pressure regulator. Until fuel pressure is verified, you may just be guessing.


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Well exactly. I can keep on guessing, till the cows come home, but a simple measurement would tell me, if I have 3 bars or not. Till now the fuel strainer was taking it's acetone bath, I have also run the pump through some kerosene, pipe attached and circulating, that was dirty too. I'm just wondering if the previous owner was using agricultural petrol or something like that... I have spoken to my bike mechanic, who was servicing my motorcycle before and he does have a fuel pressure gauge, so I might just take it in alongside the other measurements needing doing - rectifier, etc.

[CROSSBOLT]

Hey, Forbes! Is this szabgab not great to work with? Sza, you are getting this! I will bet you will not need the Kymc tool. I cannot wait for your next post!

[szabgab]

Hey, Forbes! Is this szabgab not great to work with? Sza, you are getting this! I will bet you will not need the Kymc tool. I cannot wait for your next post!

Karl,  this is most kind   Anyway,  the bike is sitting in the garage,  as I had to travel away for a few days but before I went away,  I tried to start the bike,  it did not fire a single time,  just cranking.  I did not have time to investigate,  so I just hope the battery has gone flat...   Leaving me in a cliffhanger like that,  now I can spend the weekend away wondering,  what on Earth is going on

[CROSSBOLT]

Multiple causes possible on a bike neglected like that one. Also possible run-stop switch got bumped to stop position. Is there a side stand switch on that model? Fun to brood all weekend! I am joking, of course!

[szabgab]

Multiple causes possible on a bike neglected like that one. Also possible run-stop switch got bumped to stop position. Is there a side stand switch on that model? Fun to brood all weekend! I am joking, of course!

Side stanf switch,  tilt sensor working jus as intended.  I do use the kill switch to reprime the engine,  so that's fine too,  also dissimilar to my old Honda,  the safety switches -  stand,  angle and rear brake do not let the bike to crank at all.  Oh whilst at this -  did anybody try to clean the throttle body and sensors attached (plus the O2 sensor). Does it help and is it worth the hassle and the possibility of screwing up?

Thanks!

[Forbes1964]

The shotgun approach (replacing and removing numerous unrelated parts just to see what works) is not good for troubleshooting. It just leads to more frustration. ALL engines large or small need compression, fuel, and ignition in order to run. In your case, based ONLY on the information given , the fact that the spark plug shows evidence of running lean, and the fuel system was full of gunk. Once you get it to spin over again, I’d recheck spark and fuel pressure before replacing or cleaning even one more part. If fuel pressure is low, address that concern. If it’s ok, then proceed down the line. The others can tell you what order to check things out because they are more familiar with scooters.


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[szabgab]

The shotgun approach (replacing and removing numerous unrelated parts just to see what works) is not good for troubleshooting. It just leads to more frustration. ALL engines large or small need compression, fuel, and ignition in order to run. In your case, based ONLY on the information given , the fact that the spark plug shows evidence of running lean, and the fuel system was full of gunk. Once you get it to spin over again, I’d recheck spark and fuel pressure before replacing or cleaning even one more part. If fuel pressure is low, address that concern. If it’s ok, then proceed down the line. The others can tell you what order to check things out because they are more familiar with scooters.


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Hi Forbes1964, you are absolutely right, obviously first I need to check,  if the battery is flat,  if not,  then find the cause foe the non-start issue,  check fuel pressure,  and only after that need to tackle other things.  I am just thinking ahead,  as I'm far away from the bike and  planning in my head,  what might be needing doing...

[juancuesta]

Where is the connector for the Kymco analyzer tool and what does it look like

 Right next to the battery, there's a connector covered with some black plastic, on the other side where the fuses are

[szabgab]

OK,  so I have taken the bike in today,  pressure is perfect,  3bars, engine running or not (only primed).  The guy has taken off the throttle body too and cleaned it with carb-injector cleaner,  also the map and isc sensor, although it was all clear,  only the throttle body had some varnish.  The bike starts a tiny bit easier,  but it is still not perfect,  as it needs multiple priming.  I did reset the tps,  even if that sensor was not removed. Any other ideas,  what I could check?

Thanks!

Btw I have searched for something else,  but have found this http://studylib.net/doc/18872619/afi--automatic-fuel-injection

[CROSSBOLT]

Your link is excellent! Shows everything you need to know and shows how similar the systems are for the 300i series of scooters through 2013! Shows the connector I was asking about which is the same as mine. The only difference is the earlier machines used either a PDA or a laptop to read the ECU. The Kymc tool simplified all that. I have no new ideas right now.

[szabgab]

One more thing, I forgot to mention is a rather high idle, the bike idles at 2100-2200 RPM, as far as I know, this should be 1600 +/- 100. I am not sure, if there is any connection, but maybe something?