Minor Overhaul - Like 200i

[Viper254]

27/04/2018 - I've started archiving the project on an external page, to help me keep it better organised; chronological updates will of course still be provided here! http://deliverscoot.com/kymcolike200i

Hi!

I've needed somewhere to write a minor project thread, and this seems to be the most appropriate forum; please move the topic if I've got that wrong!

Last time I did an overhaul on a scooter, I didn't provide enough information, take enough pictures or record enough videos, and that's something I'm very keen to rectify this time around.

My Like 200i is back from the MOT (UK safety check) shop, with a reasonable bill of health. However, I'm off on a 2500 mile tour in June and want the bike sorted and ready to go. Unlike my previous ride, as this one didn't cost much, I'm not too worried about drilling holes in it and the like. So, with that in mind, here's the to-do list;

Mechanical/Frame/Suspension

• Valve adjustment, inspect tappets and valves for undue wear
• Check clutch condition (currently a bit "snaggy") and re-set idle which is currently too high
• Replace rollers with the slider pieces type (generic) and new variator bushes (do you call them sliders?) from Dr. Pulley
• Change gear oil
• Centrestand and mounts - remove, clean, paint, grease, reassemble
• Front wheel - remove, replace front bearings, regrease and reassemble
• Speedo drive - remove, clean, grease, check cable condition In progress - all a bit rusty inside so stripped out and awaiting new grease and reassembly
• Remove forks to check and grease head bearings if required (I hate head bearings)
• Forks - check and clean seals, change oil, install gaitors if possible
• Exhaust mount (axle) bracket - remove, clean, replace bearing, paint, reassemble Deemed unnecessary for now - may remove anyway to see if shock can be greased
• Exhaust - remove, de-rust, remove and copper grease LAMBDA sensor threads, paint with VHT paint, reinstall In progress - LAMBDA sensor came free (hooray) but require other steps to be completed before I can reassemble, as the exhaust has been patched up with repair putty, sanded and repainted.
• Rear shocks - remove, clean, grease (they squeak like nothing else!)

Electrical/Accessories

• Install mini fuse box under front panel and aux loom so everying can be easily removed and returned to standard.
• Horn - swap for two-tone ones that sound like a van so I can scare anybody I desire to
• Install USB charger into glove box
• Install direct-to-battery marine 12v socket near battery tray so I can trickle charge from the 12v socket from my shed's solar panel when it's parked up. Need a much bigger drill bit!
• Install 12v marine power socket outside of glove box, higher up.
• Install modified hand guards with integrated LED indicators to supplement standard turn signals In progress - handguards are being modified but need to be fitted and wired in.
• Install elderly heated grips pinched from my old bike, installing the controller in the glove box to help it live longer
• Add LED tail/turn lamp to underside of luggage rack in addition to standard tail/stop lamp In progress - need to make up a bracket and install cable gland above rear light for it to be permanently connected in
• Install additional DRL side lights on the front, switched seperately from standard lights In progress - foam pads have been located to front panel but I can't work out how to get the big panel off - sunny day job for wiring everything up.
• Make a bracket for a front flood and spot lights, install it without making everything look terrible

Pictures of the bike in it's current state (which isn't bad by any means) to follow, with additional pictures added for each task completed as I go along, with write ups.

[PaulF]

   I am looking forward to seeing your scooter and the work you do to it, will be very interesting.

[Viper254]

Thanks!

Here is what I'm working with.

[Viper254]

Bits and bobs today! Fitting a couple of switches, one of which will isolate the the heated grips, and the other will isolate the DRLs from the side lights, whoopee!

These are the switches used;

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LED-illuminated-Round-12V-3pin-On-Off-Rocker-Switch-Waterproof-Auto-Boat-SPST/32805273639.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.UyK6NB

Used a 20mm drill bit, on the left side of the upper legshield to insert.

Here's a quick walkthrough of putting the switches in;

! No longer available

And then we turned to the DRLs at the front of the bike. That will follow a bit later...

Worked out how to embed Youtube vids!

[David E]

This should be good!


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[Viper254]

So, quite the day today. Removed the front wheel, and, whilst waiting for some penetrating spray to release seized screws on the mudguard, I started looking at the rear pillion handles, and whether it'd be possible to fashion a pannier-supporting rail so the bike's ready for touring. I got a little carried away.

Supplies and Tools Used:

• Bit of metal strapping I found in the alleyway behind the house, origin unknown
• 2x spacers - one probably an engine dowel, the other of unknown origin
• 2x M6 allen bolts
• Drill with 6.5mm bit
• Junior hacksaw
• 2x crush washers, washers, M6 nuts

A video speaks a thousand words, but there's also images below;





[url=https://postimages.org/]

[Viper254]

Some more progress today, and pictures to show. I did take some with Meg's SLR, but haven't got hold of them yet!

As the front wheel's currently off the scooter pending a new front tyre (please hurry up, post man) I thought this would be a good time to get the exhaust off, cleaned up and painted whilst the weather's still hot.

Removing the exhaust, however, has meant finding a couple of hidden horrors. The exhaust is actually not in great shape.



However, getting it off meant I was able to take a look at the mounting bracket and re-insert bolts using copper grease. Happily, nearly every bolt for removing the exhaust, rear calliper and bracket has a 12mm head, which is a nice bit of design. The bracket behind was actually in excellent condition, so I've shelved plans to re-paint that one for now.





The other horrible realisation is that the pins for the calliper are seized solid, though the pads have a huge amount of wear left in them. So, I've applied penetrating spray and a hefty helping of hope that I'll be able to move them at a later point.



Anyway, back to the exhaust, which actually has a few holes in the side that faces inwards towards the wheel. Unfortunately, the bracket that supports the rear hugger has also given up.

It was time to sand the exhaust down, remove any loose flaky parts and make repairs with an exhaust putty where possible.





We'll have to come up with a new solution for the broken off hanger. I can't weld



So, in the background I've also been working on the luggage rack support bracket, which has been removed; again, 12mm bolts; and the two pannier rails I made earlier in the week. One's a bit more straight that the other, but you can't have everything! Time for a bit of painting. The exhaust was repainted (after being plugged with exhaust gum) with Granville Cylinder Paint - a £8 tin seems to be lasting me for years and it's tough as old boots. The other metal parts are getting a white primer coat before being reprayed black.





I know it doesn't look the best; I just like my exhausts to last.

Since you last saw these brackets, I've tidied them up a touch; filed off any rough edges, removed burrs and de-rusted them.



Anyway, it's been a good day's painting. Tomorrow I'll see if I can free the brake calliper pins again, so that I can copper grease them and reassemble. I need to know that, if I need to take them apart on the road, they're going to come free for me!

I'm looking forward to reassembling the new, shiny, painted exhaust with no holes. I know the brush paint job isn't the most beautiful way forwards, but it does seem to keep the rot at bay for longer than the spray jobs I've done in the past.

Anyway, back to the job in hand!

[CROSSBOLT]

What a project! Keep going, don't let us bother you! This is what it is all about!

[Viper254]

It looks like I'm going to be rained off for a while.

Awaiting impact driver bits to try and remove the brake pan pins from the calliper.

I can't reinstall the exhaust until the brake calliper at the back is greased and freed, and until the new exhaust gasket arrives.

I assume I'll have the same issue with the front calliper, although I haven't properly investigated this one yet.

The front forks still can't be removed due to not being able to remove the mudguard's fixing screws rusted into place. I strongly suspect I'll end up cutting these out so I can get to the forks. I might be able to get this done, then get the fork oil changed (and seals, if required) in the shed whilst it's still wet out and about.

New front tyre is here (Maxxis, feels sticky, really looking forward to being shot of the Kenda) but I need to bribe a chap to fit it to the rim and that won't happen until Monday now.

It might be a good time to start prepping and soldering some cables up, ready to be fitted later on.

The bike is kept outside, so I can work in the shed, but the bike can't get into the shed without me losing the ability to move around it.

I hate being held up!

[jeeves]

Nice thread! [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
Do you have some issues with the front forks that requires changing the oil in them?

How many km/miles on the scoot?


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[Viper254]

Nice thread! [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
Do you have some issues with the front forks that requires changing the oil in them?

How many km/miles on the scoot?


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Hey!

~17,000KM on the scoot.

The forks don't rebound very well, squeak a bit and I'm suspicious of the fork seals. I know they've been changed previously but I'm not convinced the oil was topped up properly.

I've got good quality oil here so it seems a no brainer to get them out, especially if the pair of fork gaitors (boots) I've got kicking around will fit back on to them and provide extra protection!

[jeeves]

Hey!

~17,000KM on the scoot.

The forks don't rebound very well, squeak a bit and I'm suspicious of the fork seals. I know they've been changed previously but I'm not convinced the oil was topped up properly.

I've got good quality oil here so it seems a no brainer to get them out, especially if the pair of fork gaitors (boots) I've got kicking around will fit back on to them and provide extra protection!

[emoji106]


2500mi trip! Respect!
Spain,France, Italy?
All the above?

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[Viper254]

[emoji106]


2500mi trip! Respect!
Spain,France, Italy?
All the above?

Sent from my Redmi 4 using Tapatalk

UK, Wales, Ireland, Northern Ireland, Scottish Highlands

Going with some friends on C90s - a Honda Passport, in American terms! Mine will be the biggest motor on the trip.

[Stig / Major Tom]

After reading of your failed exhaust hanger - I had a look at mine. Found a bit of rust had formed since my last painting (when disassembled for new tire)
Gave it a good steel brushing and a respray....and smelled the new paint cooking for both rides yesterday.
I noticed that the ACF-50 has finally quit smelling this spring.
Other than a bit of brown on that hanger .... I noted things look good with that protectant applied. Takes work to get it applied everywhere (on 2 scoots and 2 bikes)....but peace of mind....

Scooters riding through UK weather sure look like they could have done with the stuff, when new. We deal with salt on roads, you with grit. Thought grit would be easier on metals.....but maybe it isn't?
Stig

[stuo]

You probably know this...but just in case: you will need extra current for those dual horns, so a separate (fused) 14 gauge line directly from the battery in needed, plus a relay to activate them. I got the dual snail horns on ebay for $9 and the relay for $2. And they sound great! Good luck, Mr. V.