Is there an easy access hatch for jump starts for the Downtown 300i?

[Seanny]

Bike won't start and I'm stranded. Brought my portable battery jump starter but then found out I need to remove the storage bucket and then remove the battery cover to access the battery.

This seems to much work if I'm going to be on the road side. Is there an easier way to jump start your bike? Or is this model designed this way? If so hmm... maybe I'll have to take into consideration how easy the battery can be accessed next time when I get a bike.

Btw I'm not sure it anyone had experienced this:
Bike won't start around two weeks ago. Called roadside assistance to tow the bike to a repair shop. But when the bike got there, the technician was able to fire it up immediately! He said there doesn't seem to have any problem, so I basically spent over $100 bucks on the towing cost. Now two weeks later, just yesterday I was going on the highway at 6000rpm 100km/h for around 40km round trip just to charge the battery a bit and have a short trip enjoying the warm sun. Today, went to get some groceries. Came out and the bike couldn't start. Heard the starting sound like 3 times but couldn't start. After that 3 times I can't hear anything anymore.

If it doesn't start after 1 week of not riding I'm less surprised. But after riding yesterday and today the battery is dead? Idk it's just really weird. My bike does have grip heater but I made sure it's off cause weather has been warmer anyways. Front light has to be off since I lock the handlebar all the time when I park. I just don't know.

[CROSSBOLT]

Had the same thing happen on mine recently. Reliable starts, hot, cold, warmed up, stone cold, sitting for 6 months, multiple stops to shop. Rr-rr-RRUMMM-RRUMM! 20000 miles on first DT300i, 6900 miles on the second. Then one day God says I ain't gonna ride that day. Posted a thread on this in Tech, "Troubleshooting no start on DT300i" I think. Dee dee says check the regulator but it sounds like an intermittent. I did check the voltages and they were normal: 12.3 no load, 11.3 key on and 13.6 idle. That range is pretty normal from my experience but may be out of range for some of the others. Start circuit works fine as cranking (starter) speed sounds normal and warning lights are normal for the ECU being energised. One rider discovered his plug wire came off. No, there is no CONVENIENT way to jump-start one of these!

One thing I did on my first DT was to lather up EVERY connector with silicone dielectric grease to delay corrosion. I have lathered up SOME connectors on this replacement machine.

There is a train of thought here on this forum that the ECU is really fussy about low voltage. That if your cranking voltage drops below 10.0 the ECU won't fire the plug and I agree with that thought. So much so, I was ready to replace the battery.

[Seanny]

Had the same thing happen on mine recently. Reliable starts, hot, cold, warmed up, stone cold, sitting for 6 months, multiple stops to shop. Rr-rr-RRUMMM-RRUMM! 20000 miles on first DT300i, 6900 miles on the second. Then one day God says I ain't gonna ride that day. Posted a thread on this in Tech, "Troubleshooting no start on DT300i" I think. Dee dee says check the regulator but it sounds like an intermittent. I did check the voltages and they were normal: 12.3 no load, 11.3 key on and 13.6 idle. That range is pretty normal from my experience but may be out of range for some of the others. Start circuit works fine as cranking (starter) speed sounds normal and warning lights are normal for the ECU being energised. One rider discovered his plug wire came off. No, there is no CONVENIENT way to jump-start one of these!

One thing I did on my first DT was to lather up EVERY connector with silicone dielectric grease to delay corrosion. I have lathered up SOME connectors on this replacement machine.

There is a train of thought here on this forum that the ECU is really fussy about low voltage. That if your cranking voltage drops below 10.0 the ECU won't fire the plug and I agree with that thought. So much so, I was ready to replace the battery.

Thanks CROSSBOLT.  A lot of good information for a new Downtown 300i owner. If I were to make the decision again I guess I'll go with a carburetor scooter instead, at least I got a backup plan which is the kick starter. Fuel injection is great when it works. The Downtown 300i is my first fuel injected scooter and love new technology compared to my old Cygnus 125. But man the amount of money I put into this bike just this month, the new technology just isn't worth it. It's just not reliablefor my short period of ownership so far.

But since I've already made the decision I'll stick with it and hopefully get it fixed and get to know it more and give close attention to it compared to my old scooter.

[CROSSBOLT]

I take it you bought a pre-owned DT. How many miles? What year? What condition is it? (Meaning like new or beat up)
Any repair history?

My opinion is this model is about the best they made in the 300 cc line. Not to discount the People GTi300! That gets me of the hate list with my wife and the gang! They both will cruise the highways effortlessly, are smooth and quiet. Mileage ranges from 65 mpg new to over 70 mpg broken in depending on season. The DT will go 200 miles per fill with reserve.They don't leak, drip or make bad noises. They are traditionally reliable and well-made. The owner's and service manuals are disappointing but usable. Dealer techs mostly are disappointing. They are worth keeping in my opinion. I plan to keep mine until it cannot be repaired or I cannot ride, whichever occurs first.

[Seanny]

I take it you bought a pre-owned DT. How many miles? What year? What condition is it? (Meaning like new or beat up)
Any repair history?

My opinion is this model is about the best they made in the 300 cc line. Not to discount the People GTi300! That gets me of the hate list with my wife and the gang! They both will cruise the highways effortlessly, are smooth and quiet. Mileage ranges from 65 mpg new to over 70 mpg broken in depending on season. The DT will go 200 miles per fill with reserve.They don't leak, drip or make bad noises. They are traditionally reliable and well-made. The owner's and service manuals are disappointing but usable. Dealer techs mostly are disappointing. They are worth keeping in my opinion. I plan to keep mine until it cannot be repaired or I cannot ride, whichever occurs first.

Yes it's used, with around 21k km on it. It has repair history but no actual invoices. Changed the tires, brake pads, and spark plug as recommended by the dealer when I did the pre purchase inspection. That's it.

The ability to go anywhere without the fear of lacking in power is awesome compared to my Cygnus. But I can't even count how many times the kick starter saved me. But I doubt they will make a carbureted scooter nowadays no?

[TroutBum]

While this will not help you at the moment, consider attaching a pigtail to your battery so you have easy access to plug in a jumper battery or even a battery tender. That way you won't have to go through the trouble of gaining access to your battery.

[Seanny]

While this will not help you at the moment, consider attaching a pigtail to your battery so you have easy access to plug in a jumper battery or even a battery tender. That way you won't have to go through the trouble of gaining access to your battery.

The previous owner actually has a plug out for a battery tender, it's just my underground parking does not have an outlet for charging.

And turns out it might not be the battery because all the lights are on when the keys are on. The shop technician said it might be something else maybe a starter or something. Corrosion might be a problem as well as crossbolt said because the previous owner parked it outside.

[Seanny]

Just an update, turns out it's the sensors being corroded nothing to do with the battery. The shop replaced the sensors and it's alive again!

He said it's most likely because the previous owner left the bike outside.

For me, I do park indoor, but I also ride in the rain. Are there any ways to prevent or slow down the corrosion if thats the case?

[ophelia]

Which sensors were corroded?

[Seanny]

Which sensors were corroded?

The two sensors on the front and rear brake levers. He said usually when one sensor is corroded, people can at least use the other one to start the bike. But I am just unlucky both are corroded and not working lol.

He recommended to keep it indoor and change the sensors regularly like once every year or two to prevent being stranded due to sensor problems. Oh and he also said if this actually happens, I can open up a screw and just press the button by hand. I am not sure if you are familiar with that (I'm definitely not lol), he showed me where the screw is but I still am not familiar until I try doing it myself.

[de dee]

can you take a picture of the screw with a picture of the area around screw,  sounds good to know,.

[CROSSBOLT]

Brake switches on brake levers! Those 'sensors' could corrode outside easily. That would definitely prevent starting.

[ophelia]

I used to fix the little computer mouse micro switches. I'd pop open the enclosure and increase the tension on the little leaf spring contact, and then I'd be golden for another year or so. I didn't click like a maniac, but I never get the feeling those switches last the million or so clicks the manufacturers say they do.

As for the brake light switches, they don't look as easy to pry open. On my sister's Bet and Win 250 I'd spray them down with a light oil like WD-40 and work them a few times. Make sure the brake lamp lights up reliably. On my current Downtown, I was able to get the front working consistently, but the left lever rear I replaced since it was intermittent at best.

I've had older mechanics tell me about kill switches building up corrosion because their owners never used them, and wonder why their bikes don't start. Out of habit I flick the kill switch on and off from time to time.

You can find the brake lever switch easily by seeing where the brake lever end closest to the master cylinder pushes on a button. After that, it's one Phillips head screw. Be sure to use a well fitting screw driver to avoid stripping the head especially if they're crusty from being outside. Two wires should fit snugly on the switch terminals. Also, the switches have a key that fit into the handlebar to avoid misalignment; make sure the key is lined up before you try to tighten the screw on. No need to remove the handlebar cladding.