2005 People 50 2T Mods

[Chachivoodoo]

Had some trouble this am with stalling at the stop lights.

After re-installing the stock jets- not sure what size.

It has a real cold blooded tendency off the line as it is- which leads me to believe it's the pilot jet.
So- I adjusted the air screw.
I was able to stabilize the stalling by screwing the air screw all the way in.   It's still a bit flat off the line until the main jet takes over and the expansion pipe powerband kicks in.

All I did was add the Leo Vince unrestricted pipe- did not mess with the air box yet.

Would this affect the pilot jet?

Screwing IN the air screw indicates the need for a larger pilot jet, correct?

Should I bump the needle up a notch or would that not affect the low rpm/ throttle flat spot and stalling?

[art]

Not the pilot so much the overall air is being restricted. You can move more air out than you can take in so the balance is a bit off. Need to do some  jetting and let more air in. You should be at least one turn out on the air idle mix.

[Chachivoodoo]

So open up the air box?  I thought I would need to bump the pilot jet up instead, since it's lean.

Wouldn't opening the airbox lean it out even more?

[art]

I have never had to mess with the pilot on any of the people 50's i have owned(4). I think your out of balance or some thing else is going on. Maybe missed something when you were in there or need to clean carb. Your situation is a little different most people open the air first than the carb and then the pipe    the air idle mix actually works like this to my knowledge turning in is richining the circuit out leaning. You are closing an air passage as you turn clockwise and opening it counter clockwise.

[art]

The idle circuit only affects idle,the off idle would be your needle and a bog would be a lean condition and a sputter a ritch one. Not enouph air can affect all this. The main kicks in about half throttle

[Chachivoodoo]

OK- got it.

What course of action should I take in order to correct the problem and get the air screw where it should be sitting?

I do not want to risk the possibility of a lean carb setting.

Cheers-

[art]

 It,for the most part,affects the idle. once it is good and worm turn counter clockwise till you achieve the highest idle possible in 1/8 to 1/4 steps(best to blip the throttle after each step). then turn back in 1\4 turn for optimum! This is usually 1 1/2 turns rouphly but varies and can change with mods.
     Not having enouph air is more likly causing a rich condition to 1/2 throttle  than as you hit the main it kinda evens out possible a touch lean.  Your people wants to breath! upjets will be needed the more you open the air. I put the hole here behind the flare on the front cover.

[wordslinger]

...what th' hell are you cooking art??...

..there was another person here, in one of these boards, that did the same thing, tried to install the exhaust without increasing air intake...

..don't think we ever got it figured out...

..CAN'T BE DONE!! ..

..scuzz...

..i'm just f*kin' with y' Chaciv...

 

..just had to be there...

..now i'm rambling...

..dang, i just need to shut up and click on "Post"...

[art]

           

[wordslinger]

..lol..i'm just sayin...

[Kragster]

Gentlemen
I have a 05 since new.. just burned up a piston, want to do the work myself (san diego).  Can I just hone the cylinder and add over size rings? what size?
Want to mill the head... 20 over good? Have a buddy with C&C
What type piston? Stock?
I can port, it's only worth it on exhaust port only... right?
The stock variator will never do it, always stuck as a 2 speed.  Is Mallossi best? And do I keep stock clutch or is Delta good choice? I don't want to experiment and presently have a new Kevlar Mallossi.
I've jetted, added Vince pipe, de-restricted but want another level.
I like 50cc, big kit doesn't appeal at this point.
How do I know if the oil injection works? (just in case that was the culprit).

Okay... for now. I am trying to get this all at once since there are many pages out there. Thanks. Kragster

[Willy Run]

Looks like a seller on eBay has a NIB factory cylinder for $30.00.  Not sure if it's spec'd as a 2 cycle.  Another has pistons & rings, they're spec'd as 4 cycle but 2 cycle may be available. Other sellers have the head assembly.  Using your OEM #'s you can find the correct parts but do your homework and look for deals.   If the crank and rod are good have your friend machine the piston pin & rod to a true round fit and finish it off with a valve job. Even if your friend has access to some CNC machinery considering shop time and trouble verses the cost of new parts I think you'd come out better to buy new parts.  Maybe find a wreck that has a good engine and & replace yours. Cost for new stuff to rebuild looks like give or take $150.00 (and your time).  Determining what made the piston crack is a difficult but important question (especially if you’ve done modifications).  Get an expert to help you analyze or set it back to factory specs.  Maybe it was running too lean and got hot? Oil pump maybe?

[bniesen]

I got the scoot out of storage and my goal for this year is to get over 50 mph. scooter is de-restricted, cdi is de-restricted. now I am going to pull the carb out and open the stock #85 main jet. I'm shooting for about .92mm on the main jet and at least one 1/4 inch hole in the filter box. Can't wait for slightly warmer weather!!