San Diego to Yosemite in a Super 8 150x

[Tromper]

I did about a very long run on a close cousin of your Super 8.
Like your run it covered a lot of highway miles and some notable climbing.
The freeway miles impact things differently then general knocking around miles that these were built for. 
Lots more steady speed riding kills rollers faster, & holds tires at the higher temps where they wear a bit faster.

Things I'd suggest:
Some of this has already been mentioned but I'm putting it all in one post.

- 101 tool kit:  Enough tools to do the belt on the side of the road & of course swap your rollers if necessary. 
Practice this so you know what you need. If you're down on the side of the road and the 'yotes are closing in there's nobody else to help most the time.

- Spare belt.  it won't hurt, doesn't take up much space.  Be comfortable with swapping it before you go or have at least an idea where local shops are.
- Spare plug.  Not sure how easy it is to replace, but having one pre-gapped & ready to go if you find you're getting some blow out ain't a bad idea.
- Tire Sealant in your tires and a tire patch kit.  Yes.  I ran a lot of miles on a pinhole in a tire using Ride-On.  There are probably some just as good.
- Rollers: A second set of lighter rollers for mountain climbing was something I ordered that didn't arrive in my package.  I regretted this the entire time I was climbing.
- Spare gas.  You get decent MPG but a sealed canister of some kind wouldn't hurt just in case your planned fuel stop is closed and the next one's 20 miles.
- Micro Jump box.  If your valves tighten up, ya get a vacuum leak, or your battery just plain dies the bike can be tough to start.  One of these can save your butt.

Beyond that...A sourced spare tire set you can get delivered to ya in a pinch wouldn't hurt if your tires are tough to find.  Usually one of the bigger outfits online will be able to overnight 'em for a price.

On Rollers in general. I burned out the OEM rollers in about 2k miles by flatting them due to long highway runs.  The sliders held up better.  Use 'em at your own risk of course cuz they ain't OEM.  The sliders may also help climbing a bit and potentially obviate the need or desire for lighter rollers.  I used stock weight on the sliders, 1 g lighter would have hurt fuel economy but helped everywhere but the flats.   You'd have to play with this on your own.  I haven't done this on a Super 8.

[otavio]

Thank you everyone!

I'm still deciding which route to take (east or west of Sierra Nevada).

Regarding the parts, are these rollers a good choice? https://www.amazon.com/Glixal-ATKS-04019-18x14mm-Performance-Variator/dp/B01ESQTW0A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1528962471&sr=8-1&keywords=gy6+150cc+roller+weights

What size of CVT belt should I buy? 842 20 30? https://www.amazon.com/Glixal-ATKS-037-842-20-30-Reinforced-Scooter/dp/B01DQYFYUM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1528962655&sr=8-3&keywords=gy6+belt+150cc

Any tips for a good tire repair kit? I've seen a few with CO2 for around $50. I have never heard about this Ride-On sealant before, it seems like a great product though!

Cheers

[klaviator]

The best tire repair kits are the ones that use the Sticky String plugs which you can pick up at an auto parts store or Wally World.  I have never had one of those plugs fail or leak.  I have used a couple of the more expensive motorcycle specific plug kits and both of them leaked air.  You also need some way it inflate the tire after you plug it.  I carry a CO2 inflater.  There are some small pumps out there but I'd be afraid of running down the battery on my scooter.  Sometimes I also carry a bicycle hand pump as a backup.

I have heard good things about ride on sealant but never tried it myself.  I think many people put it in the tires to prevent flats rather than wait until after they have one. 

[Tromper]

Pretty much.  I keep it in my 650 and the HD I ride most commonly.  Hypothetically lengthens tires life too but I can't say either way on that.
One of the main reasons I use that vs. gunk or others is that it's water based so not a big deal to rinse out of the tire & off the rim when you change it out.

...I have heard good things about ride on sealant but never tried it myself.  I think many people put it in the tires to prevent flats rather than wait until after they have one.

[klaviator]

Of course one thing you must bring along is a camera so you can take a lot of pictures and post a ride report!

I rode from San Diego to Yosemite via Lake Tahoe way back in the 80s on a Yamaha Venture.  There are some great roads and amazing scenery in the area.  I was on a big heavy touring bike but I think most of those roads would be more fun on a lightweight scooter.  Have fun on your ride.

[stuo]

Doesn't one need to use an impact wrench to remove (and tighten) the variator nut when replacing the belt or rollers on a Super 150? My GV250's and DT300 need one....

[Stig / Major Tom]

Doesn't one need to use an impact wrench to remove (and tighten) the variator nut when replacing the belt or rollers on a Super 150? My GV250's and DT300 need one....

Remove maybe, but risky to tighten with one, isn't it? Purchase the holding tool....@$12 ebay, doesn't weigh much?
Stig

[stuo]

That holding tool broke at the weld first try; I was able to cobble a fix, though. The nut on the variator of my GV 250 had been glued on and was a major pain to remove.   

My impact is the corded electric type from Harbor Freight and is perfect because it isn't all that torquey. So far nothing has stripped or came loose and I have disassembled the CVTs on my three Kymcos twice to inspect and sand the clutch pads.

The local Vespa dealer said that  he often hears Kymco owners complain about rough, grabbing clutches. I figured this was BS to get me to buy a Piaggio but I'm beginning to believe it. All three of my Kymcos have somewhat grabby, rough clutches, yet my Yamaha vino 50 is smooth as silk.  Sanding the pads works...for a while, then the roughness slowly comes back. Am I alone or is this a common problem?

[klaviator]

That holding tool broke at the weld first try; I was able to cobble a fix, though. The nut on the variator of my GV 250 had been glued on and was a major pain to remove.   

My impact is the corded electric type from Harbor Freight and is perfect because it isn't all that torquey. So far nothing has stripped or came loose and I have disassembled the CVTs on my three Kymcos twice to inspect and sand the clutch pads.

The local Vespa dealer said that  he often hears Kymco owners complain about rough, grabbing clutches. I figured this was BS to get me to buy a Piaggio but I'm beginning to believe it. All three of my Kymcos have somewhat grabby, rough clutches, yet my Yamaha vino 50 is smooth as silk.  Sanding the pads works...for a while, then the roughness slowly comes back. Am I alone or is this a common problem?

I also use a cheap Harbor Freight impact wrench for the variator nut on mine.  I'm sure it could be taken off with a regular wrench. 

I had some issues with the clutch on my Super 8.  After sanding the pads and cleaning the clutch bell a couple of times it cleared up and has been smooth for the at least the last 15,000 miles or so. 

[Tromper]

I used an HF impact wrench to pull it the first time, last time, after having torqued it to spec when I reinstalled the first time, I gave it a whack with a breaker bar & got it to pop, but it was a bit of a PITA, so when I attacked my other HD I just used the impact wrench since I had it.

In all instances I used one of these with a pipe on it to extend it a bit so it hit the ground where I wanted it to.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Spanner-Wrench-Variator-Flywheel-Clutch-Universal-Holder-Tool-Scooter-Motorcycle-/182392389114

I also use a cheap Harbor Freight impact wrench for the variator nut on mine.  I'm sure it could be taken off with a regular wrench.  I had some issues with the clutch on my Super 8.  After sanding the pads and cleaning the clutch bell a couple of times it cleared up and has been smooth for the at least the last 15,000 miles or so. 

[gwdoiron]

The OEM Kymco belts are very, very good.

3 years ago, I purchased a 2006 XC250 which had 3600 miles on it.  The owner had garaged it for almost 9 years, so as part fo the initial workup after towing it home, I replaced the belt with an OEM belt, even though the original one looked fine (rubber parts and aging, after all).

The bike now has almost 17,000 miles on it.  I check the belt each time I change the oil (1,200 miles), and it still looks fine and I haven't replaced it since.  Keep in mind I weigh 260 lbs. and have a 25 mile commute each way to work - part of it is an uphill climb, and 18 of those miles is typically highway (speeds up to 70mph), both of these place stress on the belt.

My advice would also be to check the belt, and if it looks good, don't bother with packing a spare.  I'd be far more concerned with the possibility of a flat caused by hitting a nail.

Also, if you're consistently replacing damaged belts under 10,000 miles, you either didn't use an OEM belt, or have drivetrain problems (most likely damage to the surfaces the belt rides on, but possibly alignment issues).