oil

[Billtrout]

Is there some reason my local Dealer keeps pushing EXL Belray Dino oil over synthetic??

I asked about changing too Mobile 1 full synthetic and was saying it was not good for the scooter, something about molecular adhesion. I mean if it Bad why does Bel-Ray sell synthetic scooter oil?? 

[EvilTessmacher]

I find that people generally have their own personal favorites, much like their grandfather drove Fords, their father drove Fords, and by god they're going to drive a Ford. Mine is Castrol. I got that way because of a good friendship I developed with a guy that owned a parts place for Datsuns, where I could get factory parts for half what the dealership charged. The dealer pushed Datsun "branded" oils, and made the claim that anything else could void warranties (back in the days where they could do that). This parts-place guy recommended Castrol products, and I have used them for over 30 years.

You find what suits you the best, and use it.

[stuo]

Did you notice a whiff of poo-poo when the dealer told you that BS? The only problem we ever had with synthetic oil was when we used synthetic gear oil in old Moto Guzzi rear ends: it was so slippery it would leak by the seals.

The only time to not use synthetic oil is when you are breaking in a new engine and you want enough friction to seat the rings. I had a BMW with 20,000 miles on it that still used 3/4 quart of oil between changes. Why? Synthetic oil from when new. I put dino oil in it and rode the hell out of it, finally getting the rings to seat, stopping the excess oil consumption. 

[CROSSBOLT]

Oh, boy, here I go on dealers! Been using Mobil 1 in the DT300I since 2013 with great satisfaction. Started using that because it was cheaper at Wally world than Castrol. The dealer should have told you that any oil is better than no oil if he really wanted to be wise and helpful. But, NO, he wanted to be the big shot and feed you a bunch of bull like Stuo hinted. Mobil 1 is not bad for the scooter or anything else. His information is bad. He is bad-mouthing the competition which professionals avoid doing. He bought a truckload EXL and now has to unload it. His spiel has nothing to do with caring about you. Has everything to do about him. He is one of many who will tell you anything to manipulate you to his purpose.

There, I'm all calmed down, now! I breathe normally. Whew!

[stuo]

Karl! Take a deep breath. Calm down. Chill.

[Billtrout]

As the Bike is new, I'll wait till after i get a thousand mile's on it then change to synthetic. I've got 650 on now. Rather pleased with 150x.

 thanks Guy's

[PaulF]

I took my Piaggio Medley into the dealer last week for it's first service and noticed on the invoice that they had used a semi synthetic oil.  When I asked why didn't they use a full synthetic the answer was that it didn't need it, only real large capacity engines benefited from full synthetic.  Cost saving for sure.

[EvilTessmacher]

Wow...

Stuo, you bring up a point I had not considered. I'm still waiting on the oil filter from Kymco-Taiwan to do my 600 mile service (And I'm pushing 700 miles already) and I had planned to do the change with full synthetic. Now, I'm wondering if that's such a good idea.

Maybe I need to find a semi or dino for this first change.

Confirmation? Refutation? Agreement? Disagreement?

Let me hear from you all!!

[Clampett]

I've talked to several guys that have told me to wait till the 2nd change to use synth.
One told me that the friction needs to remain to help seat the seals until the 2nd change which makes sense, but I don't know if it is sound. Lack of knowledge can make something seem logical when it isn't.
After the 2nd change it seems it's just a preference.
I've never heard or read about synth being different depending on the oil capacity. Sounds like snake oil talk.
Maybe true, but I'd need more info or data to believe it for now.

[stuo]

Synthetic holds up longer so you don't need to change it as often, so why waste moola when you are going to dump it after 600 miles, aside from the friction needed to polish the new cylinder bore.

I recall something called "break-in" oil that we used the first few hundred miles on a newly rebuilt engine: it was very thin. Anybody remember the viscosity? This was way before synthetic or multi viscosity oils were invented.

[de dee]

worked at a wrecking yard for one summer they used # 30 OIL TO BREAK IN REBUILTS  1947 WAS THE YEAR,   

[stuo]

I've learned the hard way that there are three classes of technical "experts" I don't have much confidence in: service department managers, parts counter clerks and dealership owners. I suspect most of the hooey comes from those three.

[stuo]

FYI:

Basic, but covers the important stuff.

[CROSSBOLT]

I've learned the hard way that there are three classes of technical "experts" I don't have much confidence in: service department managers, parts counter clerks and dealership owners. I suspect most of the hooey comes from those three.

Aye, Stuo, ye have provided the royal fuel for a real rant wi' that one!

[Forbes1964]

Your local dealer likely is mixing old information with his personal preferences. What he says may have been true for synthetics YEARS ago.  But both conventional AND synthetic oil formulations have improved since then. I don’t ALWAYS Assume the WORST motives in people. Some simply don’t know any better or refuse to UNLEARN something once better information is available. Nowhere is that more true than in the car of Motor oils. I remember when manufacturers first started recommending thinner oils such as 5w-30 in 4 cylinder engines. MANY people insisted on using 20w-50 because that’s what was best When they first started driving. They thought the thinner oils was some grand conspiracy to make engines wear out faster , so you’d have to buy another car sooner.


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