Author Topic: Problems  (Read 3185 times)

Viper254

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Re: Problems
« Reply #30 on: February 12, 2019, 09:40:25 AM »
I would agree.  This is the most logical next step.  It's pretty much just a matter of locating the adjustment screw and turning it incrementally one direction or the other.

I don't mean to be awkward, but isn't the idle jet fixed? If we're talking about adjusting the tickover with the screw, I think that's a good first step.

I worked a few years importing Chinese scooters into the UK - not a few, tens of thousands. It was very surpising how many arrived from the factory with the valves set too tight, making them a bit finnicky when they warmed up.
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eamartin

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Re: Problems
« Reply #31 on: February 12, 2019, 11:21:37 AM »
I don't mean to be awkward, but isn't the idle jet fixed? If we're talking about adjusting the tickover with the screw, I think that's a good first step.

I worked a few years importing Chinese scooters into the UK - not a few, tens of thousands. It was very surpising how many arrived from the factory with the valves set too tight, making them a bit finnicky when they warmed up.

Technically speaking, Kymco refers to 2 fuel jets on the Agility 50 carb - the main jet and the slow jet.  What we're referring to in this discussion as the "idle jet" is called by Kymco the slow jet.  And it has an adjustment screw #16154 which Kymco confusingly refers to as "screw idel adjust".
Now "tickover" is not a term I am familiar with.  Help me out with that one please.

Viper254

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Re: Problems
« Reply #32 on: February 12, 2019, 01:59:31 PM »
Technically speaking, Kymco refers to 2 fuel jets on the Agility 50 carb - the main jet and the slow jet.  What we're referring to in this discussion as the "idle jet" is called by Kymco the slow jet.  And it has an adjustment screw #16154 which Kymco confusingly refers to as "screw idel adjust".
Now "tickover" is not a term I am familiar with.  Help me out with that one please.

Tickover is the idle speed. Yeah, we're talking about all the same stuff - I just got confused by the terminology!
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Suzuki GW250 Inazuma (2016)
Honda C70C (red, 1983)

CROSSBOLT

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Re: Problems
« Reply #33 on: February 12, 2019, 05:05:08 PM »
No one has said it yet, so I will! The idle (tickover) jet is fixed. The idle adjustment screw regulates the AIR admitted behind the closed throttle plate. Closed idle screw = no idle air = mixture too rich, engine dies/will not idle. Wide open idle screw = major air admitted, mixture too lean, engine dies/will not idle. 2.5 turns out from LIGHTLY seated idle screw is a universal (since 1920) starting point.
Karl

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jacobml9

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Re: Problems
« Reply #34 on: February 12, 2019, 08:28:42 PM »
No one has said it yet, so I will! The idle (tickover) jet is fixed. The idle adjustment screw regulates the AIR admitted behind the closed throttle plate. Closed idle screw = no idle air = mixture too rich, engine dies/will not idle. Wide open idle screw = major air admitted, mixture too lean, engine dies/will not idle. 2.5 turns out from LIGHTLY seated idle screw is a universal (since 1920) starting point.

Hey guys, so when I purchased the scooter the dealer tech did show me where to adjust the idle screw. So I just need to get in there and adjust it. Does anyone have suggestions on which direction I should adjust regarding my problem? To recap, my problem is that after a while of idle it just cuts off. Thanks for the advice.

Viper254

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Re: Problems
« Reply #35 on: February 12, 2019, 08:53:09 PM »
Hey Jacob, turn maybe a quarter clockwise, wait for 30 seconds, then repeat, when the idle rises a touch leave it there and keep track of how many turns so you can put it back if it's too much.

If the idle is too high, you may feel the back wheel "tremble" through the rear brake or find it's pulling when it shouldn't be.
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Suzuki GW250 Inazuma (2016)
Honda C70C (red, 1983)

jacobml9

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Re: Problems
« Reply #36 on: February 12, 2019, 09:10:48 PM »
Hey Jacob, turn maybe a quarter clockwise, wait for 30 seconds, then repeat, when the idle rises a touch leave it there and keep track of how many turns so you can put it back if it's too much.

If the idle is too high, you may feel the back wheel "tremble" through the rear brake or find it's pulling when it shouldn't be.

So pretty much just turn it a quarter of the way and once the wheel in the back starts to move I have gone too much. Just wanna make sure I don't screw anything up.

CROSSBOLT

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Re: Problems
« Reply #37 on: February 13, 2019, 05:30:40 PM »
What Viper is telling you is pick a direction to turn, turn 1/4 revolution in that direction, wait 30 seconds to see if it has any effect, do it again in the same direction and wait to see if there is any change, go no farther than four 1/4 turns if no change! Reset the screw to where it was when you started the adjustment, then go 1/4 turn in the opposite direction, wait to see if there is any change. You SHOULD see some change in this direction if there was no change in the first direction. When the RPM starts to increase, like Viper said, STOP ADJUSTING!
Karl

Three motorcycles 1960-1977 (restored a 1955 BSA)
Agility 50
Yager 200i
Downtown 300i
Navy tech, Ships Engineer, pilot and aircraft mechanic

eamartin

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Re: Problems
« Reply #38 on: February 14, 2019, 05:24:42 PM »
So pretty much just turn it a quarter of the way and once the wheel in the back starts to move I have gone too much. Just wanna make sure I don't screw anything up.
Jacob,  I have found the best way to do this adjustment is to LISTEN CAREFULLY after each after each 1/4 turn of the adjustment screw for any change in engine speed.  And while we're on the subject, are you sure about which screw we're recommending you turn.  The screw we're speaking of threads into the side of the carb body horizontally.  Don't confuse this with the throttle stop screw which is located on a bracket attached to the outside of the carb body and this screw is in a more vertical position (throttle cable attaches to this bracket).

Viper254

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Re: Problems
« Reply #39 on: February 17, 2019, 08:09:54 PM »
So pretty much just turn it a quarter of the way and once the wheel in the back starts to move I have gone too much. Just wanna make sure I don't screw anything up.


Pretty much? Slowly does it. If the wheel turns a little, slowly, it's not the end of the world :)

Let us know how you get on.
Rides;

Suzuki GW250 Inazuma (2016)
Honda C70C (red, 1983)

eamartin

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Re: Problems
« Reply #40 on: February 19, 2019, 12:34:21 AM »
Car 54 where are you?

blue

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Re: Problems
« Reply #41 on: February 22, 2019, 10:13:18 PM »
I lerned the hard way
.Better to fix your self. Dealing with the kymco reps and the warrenty sucks my scoot was in the shop for 6 monthes under warrenty.

jacobml9

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Re: Problems
« Reply #42 on: February 28, 2019, 10:00:40 PM »
I lerned the hard way
.Better to fix your self. Dealing with the kymco reps and the warrenty sucks my scoot was in the shop for 6 monthes under warrenty.

I agree, Kymco warranty isn't the best... I believe I got it fixed as it is running really good now, it still will turn off at stoplights every once in a while but it isn't as persistent as it used to be. Thanks for all the advice.

eamartin

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Re: Problems
« Reply #43 on: February 28, 2019, 10:55:45 PM »
I agree, Kymco warranty isn't the best... I believe I got it fixed as it is running really good now, it still will turn off at stoplights every once in a while but it isn't as persistent as it used to be. Thanks for all the advice.

How did you fix it?

jacobml9

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Re: Problems
« Reply #44 on: March 03, 2019, 08:11:46 PM »
How did you fix it?

Carb problem:
-I fixed the carb problem by taking it into the dealer and letting them take care of it because I had a warranty. It took them upwards of a month but they did a lot of things to it.

Idle problem:
-I have just been adjusting the idle screw that is right near the carb under the bucket.

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