CR7EIX vs. CR7HIX

[sailorman]

Think I just installed the wrong plug on 2012 200i . . . installed NGK CR7EIX . . . . but on reflection, it looked significantly longer in the thread area than the stock OEM plug.  Do I need to replace this with CR7HIX?  Or am I safe?  Do not want to restart engine before being sure . . . but do not want to have to redo the job if not necessary. . . .

[Stig / Major Tom]

Yes, do not start your engine with the CR7EIX in the LIKE200i.

I have no idea what will happen. Maybe nothing....
Years ago I investigated which Iridium Denso and NGK was a direct replacement for the normal plug.

My studies showed that the CR7HIX was the correct plug - and I have been using it in my LIKE200i for 6 years with good results.
Stig

BTW - found the NGK Iridium to work better than the Denso Iridium - so took the Denso back out. Again - I forget why I preferred the NGK.....6 years ago.
The used EIX plug seen here was used in another scooter (Forza or Burgman - forget which)

[sailorman]

Thanks for the clairification Stig. I did not start engine with EIX in it. Got an HIX instead, installed, gapped valves, changed oil, gear oil, and took it out on the road. All is good.  I will wait on changing the tires until these have some wear on them.  But if they are "hard" tires, I am thinking of running them with -5 PSI for a somewhat softer ride and more contact with road.  ??

[Stig / Major Tom]

Dropping 5 lbs will affect the tires intended behavior and handling, esp. in the front.
Perhaps softer rear shock setting will help the ride.....but scooters , especially those with12" wheels have a pretty lousy ride over rough stuff by nature....save perhaps on a Vespa.
Pick smoother routes, and/or slow down!
The Kenda tire compound is long wearingly hard - not sure the tire compresses much differently than a Michelin.
Probably best to run close to manual specs for safety.....
Stig

[sailorman]

Sounds good, thanks!
I don't feel any difference I can put my finger on between the OEM and HIX plugs. But if it lasts longer, that will be a net gain as I do not like taking the plug out and putting it back in. Always afraid I will drop it down that cooling shroud!  Plan to just loosen it and then retighten it whenever I have seat off for something else, just to make sure threads do not bind.

[Stig / Major Tom]

Sounds good, thanks!
I don't feel any difference I can put my finger on between the OEM and HIX plugs. But if it lasts longer, that will be a net gain as I do not like taking the plug out and putting it back in. Always afraid I will drop it down that cooling shroud!  Plan to just loosen it and then retighten it whenever I have seat off for something else, just to make sure threads do not bind.

NGK tells me the chrome on the threads prevents seizing. No anti seize paste needed. Retorqeing plug risks overtightening.
This is only my take on this.....
Stig

[Viper254]

Has anybody actually ever had a plug seize? Don't think that's a problem I've actually ever had!

[CROSSBOLT]

Not me BUT have had to use a cheater pipe on a breaker bar to get plugs out of both cast iron and aluminum heads. All the threads stayed in the heads but heard stories....used silver anti-seize since 1956.

[Stig / Major Tom]

Not me BUT have had to use a cheater pipe on a breaker bar to get plugs out of both cast iron and aluminum heads. All the threads stayed in the heads but heard stories....used silver anti-seize since 1956.

Yeah, in Massachusetts had one plug frozen in our '67 289 Mustang convertible. This was about 1973 or 4 - so likely had been in there for 6 or 7 years.
Split open two sockets trying to remove it - (these were tools borrowed form a mechanic at a nearby Gulf service station) -- then just changed the others and left it in there!

Loved that car - commuted all winter from Amherst to Springfield Hosp. with the top down on I-91. At speed, snow goes right on over!

Stig

[CROSSBOLT]