correct drive belt?

[stuo]

I ordered a Gates drive belt on ebay that is supposed to fit my 2009 GV 250. It is a PL30904, with 894X23X28 on the sleeve.

Is this a belt that is OK for the GV 250?  The original belt disintegrated at 10K miles and from the markings on the remains it seems different from the one I bought, less beefy.

I am having a problem loosening the nut on the variator because one of the holes in the face plate for the holding tool is broken off and I am taking a lot of time to come up with a strategy to loosen it; in the meantime I would like to know if the belt is the correct one so I can return it if it isn't.

Anybody?






























i

[de dee]

I ordered a Gates drive belt on ebay that is supposed to fit my 2009 GV 250. It is a PL30904, with 894X23X28 on the sleeve.

Is this a belt that is OK for the GV 250?  The original belt disintegrated at 10K miles and from the markings on the remains it seems different from the one I bought, less beefy.

I am having a problem loosening the nut on the variator because one of the holes in the face plate for the holding tool is broken off and I am taking a lot of time to come up with a strategy to loosen it; in the meantime I would like to know if the belt is the correct one so I can return it if it isn't.

Anybody?

see if you can rent a impack gun or buy one




























i

[CROSSBOLT]

Yeah, an impact like de dee said. Then make darn sure you thread the nut back on by hand BEFORE you snug it with the impact wrench/driver/ hand-held butt-kicker! It will be SO easy to over-torque any nut with an impact. A torque stick would be best for reassembly. Now as far as the belt is concerned, I'm Schultz: I know nussing!

[stuo]

Thanks, Karl and DeDee,

I do have a HF 120 volt impact wrench but I can't hold the variator face plate still due to my previously breaking off one of the two holding holes cast onto the plate.  There is a Youtube vid showing a dude shoving rope into the spark plug hole to stop the engine, but I don't like that approach so I'm going to figure out a way to hold the plate, maybe with a very thin strap wrench or wedging something between the plate and the ground or, the  worst scenario, I'll drill through the plate to make new holding holes and replace the plate with the new one I just ordered from Leeson's, relatively cheap at $24 and change.

My concern is knowing if the belt is the correct size because by the time I get the plate off it may be too late to return it. At my age everything I do is done in slow motion...

Stu 

[stuo]

I jammed a piece of wood between a cooling fin and the ground and ran the impact for about five seconds and off came the nut.

The Gates PL30904 belt is a perfect fit! It is beefier than the factory original, which only lasted 10.5K miles. And more good news: it cost $43, shipping included, on ebay. Kymco gets $65 for theirs, plus shipping. Gates belts have been around forever so I believe it's as good as it gets.

[CROSSBOLT]

You do not need to hold the pulley with the impact driver. Go in short bursts in the lefty-loosen direction. Should loosen the nut in three bursts. Just make sure it's spinning in the correct direction!

[Stig / Major Tom]

You do not need to hold the pulley with the impact driver. Go in short bursts in the lefty-loosen direction. Should loosen the nut in three bursts. Just make sure it's spinning in the correct direction!

+1 !

[stuo]

OK Karl, I'll take your suggestion under advisement, as they say.....

[Stig / Major Tom]

OK Karl, I'll take your suggestion under advisement, as they say.....

Yes, a good thing about using an impact gun/wrench is that you don't need to mess with a holding tool.....
Maybe one of those torque liimiting extensions pcs will work using gun to install the nut(s) both ends of belt.
But I fear stripping the shaft, or the nut, so I  hand tighten, using holding tool.
Using one (or even 2) cooling fins risks snapping one off....then must purchase new part due to imbalance.
Lot of people use a strap wrench.
HATE the rope stuffed in the spark plug hole idea!!!
Stig

[CROSSBOLT]

That rope inna plug hole is emergency stuff when the hordes are about to overrun your position gotta get OUT OF HERE NOW, stuff. Certainly not normal procedure for us finely trained technicians. Har, har!

[stuo]

Good one, Karl,

I remember using the rope-a-dope trick to keep the valves from dropping when replacing valve seals in a Chevy V-8. Otherwise we would have had to pull the heads. Very time consuming, tedious job.

I tried using the impact wrench without holding the face plate, no luck, the engine whirled round and round. The wood against the cooling fin was attempted because I ordered a new face plate just in case, but I was pleasantly surprised how well it worked. The wood, obviously softer than a steel holding tool didn't break a fin yet held the plate immobile. Even so, it took a full five seconds of impact wrenching to get the nut loose. Live and loin...

[CROSSBOLT]

Whatever works without damage or injury!

[mrbios]

I ordered a Gates drive belt on ebay that is supposed to fit my 2009 GV 250. It is a PL30904, with 894X23X28 on the sleeve.
...

Anybody?

Your compressor is not delivering the air fast enough to your impact gun.  My gun blows the nut off in a second without ever having to hold the face plate during removal and reinstall.  A very short ~ 5' custom air hose with 1/2" ID helps.  My compressor can deliver 175psi but I rarely need more that 135-150 even with a 25' 3/8 hose.

I get the nut loose with an air impact wrench you could remove the outer cover so the drive belt is exposed and visit your local tire shop and have them loosen it then retighten by hand and change the belt in the parking lot or drive home and swap belts AND buy a new face plate - I did years ago and even the OEM from the dealer was cheap ~ $30? 

[mrbios]

I ordered a Gates drive belt on ebay that is supposed to fit my 2009 GV 250. It is a PL30904, with 894X23X28 on the sleeve.

Is this a belt that is OK for the GV 250?  The original belt disintegrated at 10K miles and from the markings on the remains it seems different from the one I bought, less beefy.

I am having a problem loosening the nut on the variator because one of the holes in the face plate for the holding tool is broken off and I am taking a lot of time to come up with a strategy to loosen it; in the meantime I would like to know if the belt is the correct one so I can return it if it isn't.

Anybody?

#1 nut - ** try ** to see if you can buy a new front pulley - I messed up the spline teeth on my years ago.  Replaced it with a new oem one from Kymco Parts Online - I think it cost between 20 to $30.  Either way to get the nut off you could remove the plastic and metal covers to expose the belt and ** carefully ** drive to your local tire shop or mechanic and ask if the will loosen the nut for you both the front and rear pulleys both 19mm - normal tread for both - counter-clockwise to loosen.  Bring a pry bar and replace the belt and pay attention to the DIRECTION arrow on the belt ** after changing and hand tighten with socket / ratchet -- be sure front plate is seated and on the spines and not being pushed out of place by the belt.  No ask the mechanic to use air impact wrench to "snug it up" ...

*** take a test drive in the parking lot *** and use a small mechanics mirror to check the front pulley (see attached pic) now go home and reattach the covers - the belt is reinforced with steel so no need to change it for 18K + miles & 10+ years (** IF driven properly ** that means don't spin the belt at stop signs on a hill etc -- always get full engagement ~ 12mph before flooring it.  I drive full throttle all over  but never below 12mph where the clutch is still unlocked.

REMARK: belts don't just disintegrate - my oem kymco belt has 18K miles and  was mfg'ed in 2009 = 10 years old and is still in spec.  A previous owner probably "baked" the belt by doing things like using it to hold the scooter in place on a hill at a traffic light.  If you "spin" the belt without full engagement the rear clutch housing metal will get so hot in seconds you can't touch it!

Second, ANY belt can easily be measured - most auto stores have a simple plastic device that will tension the belt and in the center is markings - I have my original belt with 10K and could measure it -- if necessary -- and report the length unless Stig or someone else or the manual contains this info.  Also my oem belt is mfg by Mitsubishi and the numbers on it should be something that can be cross referenced.

Third - when you install the new belt most critical part (after getting the 19mm nuts off) is to pry the rear clutch "driven pulley" part and shove a block of wood in there to reduce tension up front or you will damage the splines of the drive face pulley (the one in front with the fan blades).  You can watch my youtube video here:

[OldCoot]

Just watched your video on replacing the belt. It was very helpful and thorough. Thanks!

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