Downtown 300i not starting - asking for parts ID to fix this

[Seanny]

Hello everyone, my Kymco Downtown 300i is having trouble starting and I did some research on this forum and found out majority of the suggestions are to change the battery and change the left right light switch controls.

I want to do both cause who knows if I just buy a new battery and change it, but then the problem still persists and it's actually the light switch controls that are the problem. The mechanic said that both my switch controls were rusty and helped me change the right switch control a year ago, but his shop closed down and I have no idea what part that is.

Can anyone point me to what parts those left and right switch controls are so that I can purchase them?

I know the battery type is 12-BS so I have got that covered. For the switch controls, are these the ones I am looking for?:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-7-8-Left-Brake-Lever-Light-Switch-Control-Scooter-Moped-GY6-50-150cc/232816973316?fits=Model%3ADowntown%7CSubmodel%3A300i%7CMake%3AKYMCO&epid=11020750992&hash=item3634f91604:g:mc4AAOSwVEdbLcSZ

Thanks!

[roxyflash]

I would buy a genuine Kymco switch.

[Stig / Major Tom]

You say "left and right light switch".....but you actually mean the L & R brake light switches, don't  you? DOES your brake light work when you pull the brake lever ( s)?
If not -
Buy only the correct Kymco part for your scooter.
Have you tried some electrical contact cleaner spray into these brake light switches? Squirt a bit then work the lever several times and check for improvement.

Stig

[stuo]

Stig has the best advice. Don't buy a new battery until you verify whether the brake switches are burned out, which happens on the DT's. If they are, as proven by the brake light not lighting when you apply each brake, trying right then left separately, then you need either new switche(s) or, if you are handy, pry them apart, burnish the contacts with very fine (600 or higher) grit, spray with contact cleaner and try them again. I recommend replacing the brake bulb with an LED (extra bright) bulb, which draws less current. I've had this procedure done to my DT after both switches failed.

If one switch works you can still start and ride it until you replace (or fix) the bad switch.

[Seanny]

You say "left and right light switch".....but you actually mean the L & R brake light switches, don't  you? DOES your brake light work when you pull the brake lever ( s)?
If not -
Buy only the correct Kymco part for your scooter.
Have you tried some electrical contact cleaner spray into these brake light switches? Squirt a bit then work the lever several times and check for improvement.

Stig

Hi Stig, thanks for your reply. Forgive my ignorance, I don't really know but I believe you are correct it's the L & R brake light switches. About a year ago my bike couldn't start and I had to tow my bike to the Kymco dealer to fix it. The mechanic said both of the light switches are corroded and rusty and so the bike couldn't start. It's unlikely that both contacts get rusty and both don't work, but perhaps the previous owner parked the bike outdoors and so that happened. He helped me change the right switch because he has that part in stock but he has to order the left one. He called me to pick up the bike because after changing the right brake light switch it can start pulling the right lever. He will let me know when he gets the left brake light switch and I can drop by and change that one as well, unfortunately that didn't happen because they closed a few months later.

I didn't actually see the light brake switch that he was talking about physically because I just dropped off the bike and had to go to work and didn't stay and watch what he did and I'm pretty ignorant on motorcycle parts.

I just tried pressing the L and R brake levers, and the brake light goes on when I press the R lever but does not go on when I press the L lever. Which makes sense and verifies that the mechanic changed the right brake light switch and so it's making contact and working, but the left brake light switch still doesn't work.

If that is the case, then does that mean it's at least not the right brake light switch because it's working, it's probably the battery or the regulator?

[Seanny]

Stig has the best advice. Don't buy a new battery until you verify whether the brake switches are burned out, which happens on the DT's. If they are, as proven by the brake light not lighting when you apply each brake, trying right then left separately, then you need either new switche(s) or, if you are handy, pry them apart, burnish the contacts with very fine (600 or higher) grit, spray with contact cleaner and try them again. I recommend replacing the brake bulb with an LED (extra bright) bulb, which draws less current. I've had this procedure done to my DT after both switches failed.

If one switch works you can still start and ride it until you replace (or fix) the bad switch.

Thanks that seems like a great advice. I am not handy but would like to learn how to pry the brake switches and burnish the contacts, that seems like a great way to maintain my DT cause other than this flaw, I love my DT! Is there a video on youtube that shows how to do it? Also is it easy to remove the brake light cover and change the bulb?

I am reading the service manual and it literally has one sentence to describe how to remove the taillight/brake light:
"Remove the seat and met-in, then remove the taillight bulb socket."

I know how to remove the seat, and I assume the met-in means the luggage box, I know how to do that, I'll try to find the taillight bulb socket then. I'll get some 21/5W LED bulbs like you suggested and change that. I assume 21/5W is the type/socket of the bulb based on the service manual I am only familiar with A19 and GU10 bulbs because they are used in my home lol.

[Stig / Major Tom]

Thanks that seems like a great advice. I am not handy but would like to learn how to pry the brake switches and burnish the contacts, that seems like a great way to maintain my DT cause other than this flaw, I love my DT! Is there a video on youtube that shows how to do it? Also is it easy to remove the brake light cover and change the bulb?

I am reading the service manual and it literally has one sentence to describe how to remove the taillight/brake light:
"Remove the seat and met-in, then remove the taillight bulb socket."

I know how to remove the seat, and I assume the met-in means the luggage box, I know how to do that, I'll try to find the taillight bulb socket then. I'll get some 21/5W LED bulbs like you suggested and change that. I assume 21/5W is the type/socket of the bulb based on the service manual I am only familiar with A19 and GU10 bulbs because they are used in my home lol.

Sounds like you only need to remove the underseat bucket - and then you'll see the tail light fittings. Turn to remove.
Be careful taking apart the little brake light switches - ! - I think I'd first try the spray cleaner. Might also prevent further corrosion - if that was the original problem.
I once took apart the start switch - had tiny parts going all over the table! Reassembly was an adventure.
I'd buy a new brake light switch before starting surgery on the old one.
www.cyclepedia.com sells a service manual for the Downtown 300i.

Stig

[stuo]

It is not corrosion that makes the brake switch not work: it's the current passing through the contacts that burns them, ruining the smooth contact surfaces. They must be burnished (filed) like we used to do to ignition points to take off the oxidation and smooth the slightly pitted surfaces. If you use an LED brake bulb you will never have that problem again due to the low current an LED draws, which won't burn the contacts in the switch. Spraying them won't take off the oxidation or smooth them. They can be popped open with a knife blade to reveal the contacts.

You can buy new switches very reasonably on ebay or amazon if you don't want to try rejuvenating them. If one switch works you can use your bike with no problem until that switch finally fails.

[stuo]

The brake switch part numbers are: 35340 and 35350 if you want exact replacements, although there are generics that will fit.

I use Leeson's for Kymco parts: https://shop.leesonsarcticcat.com/oempartfinder.htm

[Stig / Major Tom]

The brake switch part numbers are: 35340 and 35350 if you want exact replacements, although there are generics that will fit.

I use Leeson's for Kymco parts: https://shop.leesonsarcticcat.com/oempartfinder.htm

Thanks Stuo - I've bookmarked them now for parts. For 6 years have used monsterparts….sad to see them go.
Stig

[Seanny]

Sounds like you only need to remove the underseat bucket - and then you'll see the tail light fittings. Turn to remove.
Be careful taking apart the little brake light switches - ! - I think I'd first try the spray cleaner. Might also prevent further corrosion - if that was the original problem.
I once took apart the start switch - had tiny parts going all over the table! Reassembly was an adventure.
I'd buy a new brake light switch before starting surgery on the old one.
www.cyclepedia.com sells a service manual for the Downtown 300i.

Stig

This is what I see after removing the seat and the underseat bucket:
https://imgur.com/a/l6ghbAJ

But I don't see anything that resembles this from the manual:
https://imgur.com/a/6vPbPzt

Since the taillight is behind the battery, do I have to remove the battery to see the taillight socket?

As for the brake light switch, I don't really have to take apart the switch, I just need to buy a new one, and replace the old one without messing around with the inner parts of the old switch am I correct? Yeah hearing from you sounds like I don't want to open that switch up and mess with all the parts inside haha.

Also just a brief update on my further testing:
I used one of those battery jump starter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/bestsellers/automotive/318336011/ref=pd_zg_hrsr_automotive_1_1_last) to try and jump start the bike, and the bike starts immediately without issue.

I used a multimeter to measure the voltage of the battery before jump starting and it measures at 11.65v which is to the low side since in the manual it saids <12.3v is insufficient charged.

The worse part is after I jump started the bike and ran it for 2 minutes, I measured the voltage again and it's 11.34v, even lower than before jump starting. My knowledge with my car tells me that when the car is running the voltage on the battery should go up showing that the battery is being charged. But the opposite is happening, but maybe I have to rev it up more and let the bike run longer to show the charging I guess. I'm just worried if the regulator or whichever the part is responsible for charging the battery is having issues.

Anyhow, I removed the battery, hooked it up with a battery tender, and hopefully that will boost up the voltage to at least above 12.3v and see if that helps. And then I'll do another test on the charging by revving more and leaving the bike run longer. Hopefully it's just a battery problem.

[Seanny]

Another update

I've charged the battery, put it back into the bike yesterday, everything works as normal, hooray! So I put everything back, battery cover, storage bucket, seat, and went home.

This morning, I was hoping to ride to work, turned the key, and nothing happened, no lights, no meter sweep when startup, nothing!

Came back from work, used a multimeter to measure voltage across battery, 12.84v! There's voltage!

I plugged in back to the battery tender again, and it turned green in less than 20 minutes. Put the battery back into the bike, turned the key, same thing nothing but silence, no lights. Checked voltage again, 12.86v.

I don't know what to do anymore. A new battery is on it's way. I am gonna charge that to full once I get that, and put it in the bike and see. Hopefully it's just the battery issue, but there's healthy voltage within the battery which is really weird! If nothing helps, I guess I'll just have to tow the bike to a shop and let them figure it out 

[mousejunks]

Have you checked the relays? They are located behind the windshield cover. There could be a bad or  loose connection.

There are also fuses above the battery, they could be blown or loose as well.

[CROSSBOLT]

With your voltage checks and report, I am betting on a very loose connection. Probably a fat, black wire to ground from the battery....

[stuo]

No! That is not what you want. The brake light switches are small micro-switches inside the right and left handle covers. If you go to ebay or amazon and enter "scooter brake light switches" you will see how they look. I don't know if they are exactly the same as yours, but for less than $10 why not order a pair? Or...call Leeson's and get the correct ones for considerably more moola. If you can get them out of the handle covers they consist of two small (a little larger than a quarter) plastic halves snapped together. You put a thin knife blade in the seam and pop them apart. Inside you will see the contacts, which you will sand and spray.

If you don't get any lights when you turn the key it isn't brake light switches that are the problem because they only affect the brake lights and the starting circuit. So...look elsewhere. Make sure your battery post connections are tight and clean to begin with