Speedometer and ABS died

[Ex-KLR]

The speedometer and ABS died on my Like 150i today. The sensor is undamaged, so I suspect that multiple trips over a rough road shook loose a connector.
Can any one give me a hint on how to remove the tupperware to get access to the connector? I hate to remove more than required.

[Stig / Major Tom]

Not sure how many owners have been inside panels of this new scooter.
A Cyclepedia service manual might be your scooter's best friend once you are out from under the 2 yr warranty. Cyclepedia produces the manuals for KymcoUSA.

Stig

[Forbes1964]

The speedometer and ABS died on my Like 150i today. The sensor is undamaged, so I suspect that multiple trips over a rough road shook loose a connector.
Can any one give me a hint on how to remove the tupperware to get access to the connector? I hate to remove more than required.

I don’t know about this particular scooter. But wheel speed sensor failures are somewhat common on most vehicles. And there’s hardly ever any visible damage. But I do agree that checking connections is a good idea. But I wouldn’t really expect to find anything.


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[klaviator]

If its still under warranty I'd just take it to the dealer and let them fix it.

[Ex-KLR]

UPDATE:
The dealer found nothing visibly wrong and is waiting for the delivery of a diagnostic tool.
As  Forbes1964 said, it's probably the sensor.

[mousejunks]

I wrote this fix for the Downtown, the connectors for the wheel speed sensor are fragile, leading to speedometer and ABS issues.
https://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=23607.0

[rdhood]

For the DT... not sure about the Like, it's also possible to put the front wheel on with the spacers in wrong. They are slightly different sized and will offset the wheel just enough to put the sensor out of range of the wheel. Probably not your problem, but a heads up anyway.

[Ex-KLR]

UPDATE 2:
When the dealer removed the wheel to replace the speed sensor, he found the axle threads stripped and ordered a new wheel assembly.
He thinks that the axle was over tightened during assembly.
(I don't understand why a new wheel is necessary unless the axle is an integral part of the wheel).

[CROSSBOLT]

Not integral with wheel and has not been ever in my experience on any model or brand. The axle is basically just a long, special shoulder bolt. Threads stripped on axle mean they are probably stripped in the left fork leg, too. The female threads on the fork leg can and should be repared with either a new fork leg or a thread insert. The axle should be replaced. I am pretty sure I recall the Like 200i had a cinch bolt that had to be loosened BEFORE removing the axle and definitely loose BEFORE replacing the axle. Failure to do this WILL damage the threads! Rdhood's point about spacers is right on. They MUST be in the proper location since they are different left and right. I question replacing the wheel.

I seriously doubt the factory overtightened the axle since they use fixed torque drivers to put everything together.

[Ex-KLR]

Talked to the dealer today. Wheel has been shipped and should arrive by next week.
I was wrong about the stripped axle.  Turns out it was the cogs on the wheel that engage the speed sensor.
I don't see how they could strip/break - possibly bad from the beginning?
Hope to have it back next week and have some 40+ degree riding weather ((Yeah, I'm old and chicken).

[CROSSBOLT]

I may be misunderstanding what you have written but "the cogs on the wheel" do not "engage the speed sensor," rather that the bars and slots of the tone ring or wheel are "sensed" by the sensor. There must be a very small space between the tone ring or wheel and the sensor. Now, since the front wheel is generally mounted by the dealer when the bike is uncrated and set up, this is one of the checks he must perform. Usually this is done and rarely a problem.

The changes in the story has me suspecting the dealer. Well, I ALWAYS suspect the dealer! But axle stripped then no, not that but the wheel cogs stripped. Replacing the wheel is suspect....

Will be interesting how this ultimately turns out.

[mousejunks]

That's weird, there is no physical contact between the wheel speed ring and wheel speed sensor, so it can't wear out. It relies on the Hall effect, which is magnetic in nature. It could be the spacing between the ring and sensor, causing it to be faulty.

[rdhood]

A Picture is worth a thousand words.  So here are some pics.  Someone with a Like 150i could post some as well. 

I looked for a Like 150i  parts diagram online, and found one old one where they used a mechanical hub/cable piece like the chinese scooters use. the mechanical unit sits in line with the wheel and is turned by the wheel. I am assuming it is not one of those. If it is, I   could see that if the piece inside the wheel hub that engages the mechanical arm stripped out somehow...that it could take a wheel replacement. 

More likely, though, is that it is a sensor/ring system like the DT300i.  And in that case, the sensor (see pic) bolts onto the fork at a precise location (because the rotor/hub is also at a precise location), and is not adjustable in the same way that the rotor is not adjustable. It bolts on . Period. There is a small gap between it and a fixed magnet attached to the wheel (see pic).  Somewhere in or among that ring is a  magnet. It works just like $12 bicycle speedometers.  As the moving magnet passes the fixed sensor, the computer keeps count and multiplies it times the wheel circumference to compute distance and speed. Here is what the sensor looks like on the DT.  Notice the gap to the sensor ring. Notice that it is bolt on and not adjustable. What did the OP's dealer do, exactiy?  The sensor itself can be replaced in less than 10 minutes by someone who has never seen it before. The wheel should never need be removed. What did the dealer do?   I cant cast aspersions because I dont have the bike in front of me....

[Ex-KLR]

When I visually inspected the sensor, I didn’t see a serrated ring or air gap between the sensor and wheel. Given the shape and size of the sensor, I assumed that the rotation of the wheel caused a serrated ring in the sensor to also rotate.  If so, then a mechanical coupling between the wheel and sensor would be necessary.  At some point, I'll have to bite the bullet and invest in the service manual.

[Stig / Major Tom]

When I visually inspected the sensor, I didn’t see a serrated ring or air gap between the sensor and wheel. Given the shape and size of the sensor, I assumed that the rotation of the wheel caused a serrated ring in the sensor to also rotate.  If so, then a mechanical coupling between the wheel and sensor would be necessary.  At some point, I'll have to bite the bullet and invest in the service manual.

Price of the serv man is @1% of your scooter's OTD price.
Probably not a bad investment?
Stig