Author Topic: Cable lube technique  (Read 1547 times)

Neil955i

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Re: Cable lube technique
« Reply #15 on: March 07, 2021, 08:53:48 AM »
That rear tire looks like it should do you until the Rapture....

Stig

Oh no, now you’ll have restarted that whole Dark Side debate!
Regards & ride safe,
Neil

Current garage:  Kymco DTX360 & Triumph Street Triple 675R
Past bikes: BSA C15. Honda S/wing (GL500). Kawasaki GPz750. BMW K100RS. Kawasaki GPZ900R. Yamaha FJ1200 x2. Sprint. Triumph Daytona 900. Kawasaki ZX-7R. T595 Daytona. Kawasaki ZX-9R x2. Triumph Daytona 955i. X-Town

Iahawk

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Re: Cable lube technique
« Reply #16 on: March 07, 2021, 04:06:50 PM »
Crossbolt, why do you think your cables rusted? Does braided stainless rust often? I agree with the cable placement / replacement issue....man, what a pain to have to replace them! I wish the seat release wasn't controlled by a 6 foot long cable that is critical to operating the scoot..as in you have to get to the gas filler somehow.

Nice work building your own cables. Please show us more of your work and the finished cables.
2010 People S200 - sold after 8 wonderful years!
2014 Ninja 300
1996 Honda Helix
1984 Honda Nighthawk 650

Iahawk

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Re: Cable lube technique
« Reply #17 on: March 07, 2021, 04:08:45 PM »
meant to mention that I also use that same Motion Pro cable luber...when I finally get it right it works great...it's just that I usually waste half a can of lube spraying it everywhere until I finally get it set up right for the lube to actually go inside the cable!
2010 People S200 - sold after 8 wonderful years!
2014 Ninja 300
1996 Honda Helix
1984 Honda Nighthawk 650

CROSSBOLT

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Re: Cable lube technique
« Reply #18 on: March 07, 2021, 10:57:07 PM »
Crossbolt, why do you think your cables rusted? Does braided stainless rust often? I agree with the cable placement / replacement issue....man, what a pain to have to replace them! I wish the seat release wasn't controlled by a 6 foot long cable that is critical to operating the scoot..as in you have to get to the gas filler somehow.

Nice work building your own cables. Please show us more of your work and the finished cables.
The cables rusting probably from me using Gunk degreaser on engine and flushing with water. I think the water got in at the left side adjusters and went to the low spot and stayed.

Made the end fittings today. The originals are spheres and being lazy, I made half-spheres. The OEM ends are just cast lead which are OK in this low tension application.
Karl

Three motorcycles 1960-1977 (restored a 1955 BSA)
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Yager 200i
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Ruffus

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Re: Cable lube technique
« Reply #19 on: March 08, 2021, 11:13:10 AM »
@CROSSBOLT,
looking good your half spheres. You will know, but during and after soldering try to shield the cable and cable housings as much as possible from soldering flux, for it gets pretty corrosive after being heated up and will cause rust right there. Then clean with fuel and rubbing alcohol to get leftovers off.
Happy and safe scootering, Ruffus

CROSSBOLT

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Re: Cable lube technique
« Reply #20 on: March 08, 2021, 12:41:02 PM »
@CROSSBOLT,
looking good your half spheres. You will know, but during and after soldering try to shield the cable and cable housings as much as possible from soldering flux, for it gets pretty corrosive after being heated up and will cause rust right there. Then clean with fuel and rubbing alcohol to get leftovers off.
Good advice! Will do!
Karl

Three motorcycles 1960-1977 (restored a 1955 BSA)
Agility 50
Yager 200i
Downtown 300i
Navy tech, Ships Engineer, pilot and aircraft mechanic

CROSSBOLT

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Re: Cable lube technique
« Reply #21 on: March 08, 2021, 11:10:38 PM »
Major setback: one of the five cable housings is completely blocked by rust! The other that was blocked was drilled out with a wire. Will have to replace that housing from a bicycle shop somewhere.

The first picture should be the ignition switch. The gold lever with the hole is the actuator for the seat release. Its available pull distance is .5 inch.

The second picture is of one seat latch, the one on machine right. The critical distance is .875" between the "L" bracket to your left and the "stirrup" U shaped thingy to the right. The U shape moves .125" to release  the latch.

All these dimensions determine how long to make each cable.
Karl

Three motorcycles 1960-1977 (restored a 1955 BSA)
Agility 50
Yager 200i
Downtown 300i
Navy tech, Ships Engineer, pilot and aircraft mechanic

JJJoseph

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Re: Cable lube technique
« Reply #22 on: March 09, 2021, 07:28:24 AM »
Applies to any sheathed cable, any brand, any control.

https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0182

These little gizmos are excellent.  I've had one for years and they're really worth the few dollars because they send the lube right through the cable in one shot.

CROSSBOLT

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Re: Cable lube technique
« Reply #23 on: March 13, 2021, 09:35:07 PM »
Update:
Got a cable and housing set from Amazon that was PERFECT! Has enough to do the job and uses .050" stainless 7 trand wire. Called "Corki Universal bicycle cable housing for Shimano SRAM deraileur" and lists for 10.00 USD!

Changed end stops to avoid problems with TPFE coating on shifter cable. Picture below.
Karl

Three motorcycles 1960-1977 (restored a 1955 BSA)
Agility 50
Yager 200i
Downtown 300i
Navy tech, Ships Engineer, pilot and aircraft mechanic

Stig / Major Tom

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Re: Cable lube technique
« Reply #24 on: March 15, 2021, 01:12:02 AM »
I wonder.
Am I the only one who does not bother to latch my scooter's seat?
My Piaggio requires a firm latching, so since the scooter is always garaged - or in my line of sight  - I never bother closing it fully to the point of latching.
The scoot has an electric release button (NOT involving the ignition or its key) and a back-up manual release lever. I just never use either.
I guess if I  ever have a major 'off' one of the ambulance personnel will have to police up all the Moon Pies I've stored beneath me.
Stig
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Rural Ohio

And, I'm feeling a little peculiar.

Neil955i

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Re: Cable lube technique
« Reply #25 on: March 15, 2021, 10:23:14 AM »
Wouldn't work on my X-Town Tom, that snaps shut as soon as you sit on the seat - and no, that's not just my weight, how dare you!
Regards & ride safe,
Neil

Current garage:  Kymco DTX360 & Triumph Street Triple 675R
Past bikes: BSA C15. Honda S/wing (GL500). Kawasaki GPz750. BMW K100RS. Kawasaki GPZ900R. Yamaha FJ1200 x2. Sprint. Triumph Daytona 900. Kawasaki ZX-7R. T595 Daytona. Kawasaki ZX-9R x2. Triumph Daytona 955i. X-Town

CROSSBOLT

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Re: Cable lube technique
« Reply #26 on: March 15, 2021, 10:40:55 AM »
This seat would latch if sat upon, too. Got it lubed, adjusted and tested yesterday. Even devised and installed "emergency trip wires!" Pictures later..
Karl

Three motorcycles 1960-1977 (restored a 1955 BSA)
Agility 50
Yager 200i
Downtown 300i
Navy tech, Ships Engineer, pilot and aircraft mechanic

CROSSBOLT

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Re: Cable lube technique
« Reply #27 on: March 16, 2021, 07:11:30 PM »
Emergency trip wires, left and right..hard to see but work easily!
Karl

Three motorcycles 1960-1977 (restored a 1955 BSA)
Agility 50
Yager 200i
Downtown 300i
Navy tech, Ships Engineer, pilot and aircraft mechanic

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