Cheap air filters suck

[Peters]

Yup they do. Finally got this thing running right. I love my people. A malossi variator and stiffer clutch springs are next. Anyways turns out it was the cheap air filter I bought on ebay causing it to sputter all the time. I put the stock box back on with two 1/2 inch holes in the cover and dropped the jet back to .95 . Runs great now no more sputter as long as the mix screw is not to rich. Not a noticeable power loss vs. no filter at all. Not as loud either. Im still learnin Got it goin 45 on flat ground and 50 downhill.

[sidthesloth]

I would not recommend running no air filter, that is a death sentence on your engine.

[Peters]

I know I only did it when I had to

[art]

 That sputtering was most likly jetting a little too ritch. You may want to try again with a k/n and a tad smaller jet.

[wordslinger]

..i bought a cheap emco filter...looked great! but fell off the boot somewhere on highway 311...

..but i agree with art..sounds like you weren't jetted just right with the el-cheapo filtero....

 

[Peters]

..i bought a cheap emco filter...looked great! but fell off the boot somewhere on highway 311...

Yep I know where that is!

I think the cheap filter got soaked with gasoline from rich idle and just never worked the same. Sounds crazy I know but it worked fine at first but went down hill quick. Also I really started having problems with it after a rain or two. It got wet and that was it didn't wanna run with it anymore even after it dried.

Running great now with three 1/2" holes in the stock box cover. Still might be rich I think. Its not lean though. If I cover the holes while riding it bogs and sputters. I have trouble doing the plug chops. I can't seem to get a real defined color to the insulator with only a mile or two of a chop. And can't see doing more than that at WOT. What I get out of it is a light brown color on the insulator. Good Right?  I guess I need a long strait away with places to stop at both ends. The plug I keep in it is dark brown and has some oil residue on the insulator and tip.

[wordslinger]

..if your plug is getting oily, then yes yu're a bit rich...

..as long as it's not so bad that you foul a plug, then you're okay..

..however, as you run rich, carbon is being deposited in your engine and exhaust..

..might should add an ounce of seafoam in every other tank of fuel...to help reduce thatcarbon..

with only a mile or two of a chop. And can't see doing more than that at WOT

..dang...i run 20 mile stretches at WOT...

[Peters]

I am adding seafoam now thanks to you guys.

..dang...i run 20 mile stretches at WOT...

Me too brother. Just don't usually have a good place to stop and change the plug at both ends.

Anyways it can be done. I guess my question is do I have to run 20 miles for a plug chop. I read it only takes a like a half a mile. Not very clear on the whole thing. It cannot idle or be at half throttle has to be 100% WOT or it ruins the results of the chop right?
 I have read some really good detailed instructions on how to do it but I dont remember where it was. I have trouble finding what I want when I do searches on here.

[wordslinger]

..with a 2t, you should be able to, with a hot engine and a new plug.. run WOT for a minute....

..hit the kill switch and keep the throttle wide open..hard brake to a stop..immediately pull your plug and read it....



..no, i was just saying i'm generally wot for long stretches while riding...lol..


peace

[lankeeyankee]

Sputtering as in hesitating
or bogging which means its falling on its face and making a bogging nose drowning sound.

Sputerring, hesitating is lean
Bogging falling on its face is rich

[wordslinger]

Sputerring, hesitating is lean
Bogging falling on its face is rich


..true...

 

[lankeeyankee]

Yup they do. Finally got this thing running right. I love my people. A malossi variator and stiffer clutch springs are next. Anyways turns out it was the cheap air filter I bought on ebay causing it to sputter all the time. I put the stock box back on with two 1/2 inch holes in the cover and dropped the jet back to .95 . Runs great now no more sputter as long as the mix screw is not to rich. Not a noticeable power loss vs. no filter at all. Not as loud either. Im still learnin Got it goin 45 on flat ground and 50 downhill.

You cant just replace your airbox with an open airfilter and expect performance gains in return you will have performance loss.
Reason is, your bike was jetted for an airbox and how much air flow the carburetor can get. When you take the airbox off you are now allowing more air into the carburetor. to much air, not enough fuel bad.
More fuel, more air, less restrictive exhaust flow = good. Bigger carburetor, bigger piston, bigger valves, bigger exhaust= damn good!! improper tweaking, tuning, worse then factory / stock.

[Peters]

Sorry I have spread this on a few different posts so facts are missing from this. I realize I can't introduce more air flow without more fuel. Here is the story. I bought a tecnigas next r pipe and a universal air filter. I bought a jet that I thought would fit but is smaller thread size so I used the drill and solder method on the stock jet. I drilled it to a .95 and "thought" it was still lean so went up to 1.00. Started having problems when the filter got wet. Went back to .95 and made no difference at all(still would not accelerate at all).

 I know its hard to believe but it will not run right with that filter on. AS SOON as I put the stock box back on with two 1/2 inch holes in the cover it ran like a champ. I have given up on the free flow air filter for now(stock box is not as noisy anyway). When I get the big bore kit in a year or two I will change carb and will have to address it then.

RICH OR LEAN?:
My reasoning is that if I cover the holes I drilled in the air box it richens the mix right? So if I cover the holes and it runs like crap I am right on the line between slightly rich and too rich right???

IMAO I do have some limited small engine and automotive knowledge. I do know what rich exhaust smells like and I know that my plug is getting more oil deposits now than it was stock.

BTW I do appreciate any and all help. Just want you to have the facts first then call me an idiot(just kidding) . I certainly dont claim to know eveything otherwise I wouldn't need this site.

[lankeeyankee]

Air is measured in different values. 1) Denisity 2) CFM 3) Speed.
The distance between the air filter and the venturi of the carburetor makes a difference depending if your looking for low end, mid range or top end.
I have never soldered and re drilled my fuel or air jets. If you ever looked at a fuel jet you will see its tapered. You can not get this shape with a drill bit.
If your wanting to tune for an open air filter I would suggest buying a few main jets up to 5 sizes larger then stock. Also if your needle isnt adjustable I would purchase some really thin shims which can be bought at an RC hobby store down to .005"
First tune your main jet, then adjust your needle height.
These carburetors use such small jets and to solder and drill isnt very precise IMO. Carburetor tuning is a skill of precision if you want performance and even more so with CV style carburetors.
To help one fine tune carburetion to perfection isnt possible over the internet, I can only get you in the correct direction and the rest is in the ears of the tuner or an AF meter and dyno

[Peters]

Air is measured in different values. 1) Denisity 2) CFM 3) Speed.
The distance between the air filter and the venturi of the carburetor makes a difference depending if your looking for low end, mid range or top end.

I kind of figured that and I suspect that might have been part off the problem. But like I said it would run at first. Imao I like the stock box with holes in it for now.

I have never soldered and re drilled my fuel or air jets. If you ever looked at a fuel jet you will see its tapered. You can not get this shape with a drill bit.

Your absolutely right. Drilling and soldering was not my first choice. It works though. The guys on here have told me it is hard to find jets for these carbs. I guess I really should take it to some of the bike shops around here and see if I can find some with the right thread size.
Thanks for the reply lankeeyankee, very helpful.