How to deal with a NOS clutch which is stuck shut

[Stig / Major Tom]

This morning had what I think was a problem with my 8 yr old clutch on my LIKE200iLX
. Creeping forward at idle, lot of drama when I try to  pull away- but ran at high speed just fine. Tired clutch spring (s) ? NO, the old Rev It While Holding the Brake was a no go.
Just serviced these clutch pads weeks ago. Maybe they're shot.

 - no worries - I'll put on the new one which I've had for probably too many years still in the Kymco box , in a drawer....and play with the old one this winter on kitchen table (while wife's at work) , not in a hot garage.


The old one was just serviced a few weeks ago, when I did a new belt and sliders.
But it is getting a bit thin.




WELL, the new clutch would not open, to let me put the belt in.!
Made several attempts, over a couple of hours. No way am I putting this in, in this condition.

I've "opened" Burgman 400 clutches, Honda 300 clutches, and this LIKE's clutch several times.
This NOS clutch is stuck shut!

So, took it apart. Found that the new clutches big 39mm nut wouldn't budge....until I persuaded a 1.5" socket onto it and used my impact gun. Bit like a controlled explosion....!! Watch safety youtubes on how to remove this clutch nut!

Your parts after nut removed.


I found that the movable half of the pulley was still jammed shut - but was able to get some movement by striking the chrome/threaded tip against a soft pine board. After that with Twisting and pulling, lubing...prying... I got the full 1/2inch of twisting movement.



The thin O rings were holding fast to the sleeve over the lubed area. That's OK, it not supposed to move -BUT it IS supposed to come off to lube the 3 little pins.
Pry off to gain access to the 3 pins and the area for lubing. (High temp grease!)
 






The 2 brown end seals were doing the same to the center shaft. STUCK.

Nothing was sliding like it is supposed to.

I cleaned and lubed and 'worked' the sliding parts until things acted normally.
Put the CVT back together.
Ran the scooter - seemed to be working properly. Will find out tomorrow.

Whole operation took 7 hours. Wife added band-aides where necessary. (that spring is fun)

some pix.....





Well, it's on....will see how it works tomorrow.


Major Tom

EDIT - worked great this morning. Strong and smooth take-up when pulling away. Will report if it doesn't last.

[big blue]

Yet another great tutorial hope it works for ya!

[Stig / Major Tom]

Yet another great tutorial hope it works for ya!

Yeah, well let's hope no one else has a frozen clutch. This should have been a one hour job😊
The Major

[john grinsel]

As user/rider/buyer of these rubber band drive scooters since 1990.....and over 400,000 miles----these drive trains including belts should last at least 50,000 miles----they do not!!  Junk.  Of my 4 new Helix, 3 had clutch bearing problems (warranty), 2 new Burgman 400's, one at 20,000 total blow up of rear clutch (Suzuki paid under warranty), other made it to about the 50,000 miles I usually keep bikes  Two new  SilverWing 600's, over 90,000 total miles.  First one had jerky drive take up its whole life (No Fix other than run engine up against brakes every now and then).  Second one made its whole life with no problems)

I change belts about every 15,000 miles with OEM belt, carry spare belt, as dealers usually do not have them in stock.  I have had only one broken (powdered) belt on these years(Helix) as I pulled off Freeway in VA.---lucky as I did not get run over.

Burgman 650, I have only test ridden once, had lots of trans/drive train complaints----usually from buyers of old junk wanting Suzuki to pay for expensive repairs out of warranty.   I am pretty sure if I had bought new one/ridden right it would have gone 50,000 miles.....always nice to have warranty there, too.

I leave parts stock----want different performance?  Get different bike!!   I had not had drive train problems with Reflex or Dealim in Korea.

[Iahawk]

interesting that you had trouble opening up the new pulley...when I replaced mine (with an OEM one) I also had a heck of a time opening up the rear pulley. The original part was easy to open..the replacement was extremely difficult. It probably took double or triple the force to open. I never went to the trouble of opening it up further, like you did, since I was able to get the pulley apart. Maybe this is a lesson to those who buy the OEM replacement pulleys? Check 'em over carefully and lube up if needed!

[LidoCA]

 I also bought a Kymco replacement clutch a few years ago and it has been sitting on a shelf in the garage. I opened the box to test it after reading your post. Sure as heck, it will not open. I bought a $35.00 gy6 clutch on ebayyy as a test years ago on the recommendation of another inmate.
 The original clutch that i took out still opens fine. You may want to pin this thread for future reference.

[CROSSBOLT]

Very good, Major Tom! The sticking seems kinda logical sitting for so long...never really thought about it. Great service manual stuff! How ever did you compress the sproing to get that nut started?

[Stig / Major Tom]

Very good, Major Tom! The sticking seems kinda logical sitting for so long...never really thought about it. Great service manual stuff! How ever did you compress the sproing to get that nut started?

Tried the feet thing...but made it too much like an artillery piece. Put it on floor, leaned on it with both hands, held it with one hand & threaded nut on with it jammed in the socket.
You get hot, tired and mad enough....😊
The Major
FYI, at this point was wearing my old HJC helmet.