Blown battery fuses

[joshuatree91]

My dad bought a 2017 Kymco Like 200i a couple weeks ago that an older couple had sitting in their garage only having rode 28 miles on it, so the scooter is damn new. I wasn't with my dad when he went to pick it up but i think it should be worth mentioning they they tried getting it to start a few times with the killswitch engaged and eventually my dad figured it out for the elderly couple. They disengaged the killswitch and started it just fine and he took it off their hands for a sweet deal.

 We ran through some sea foam through the crankcase oil and then did an oil change after about 100+ miles and some to the gas and it sounded much  smoother than before which was great(probably has nothing to do with the issue but thought i'd share anyways). Now about 200+ miles coming back home from a ride my dad's headlights weren't on and we get home and turn the scooter on and it won't turn back on. So we checked the battery compartment and it turned out to be a blown fuse on the negative(black) wire. We replaced it with one of the replacements that came with the scooter on top of the battery and it started again. We drove it around the corner for a minute or two and came to a stop and it wouldn't turn on again so we used ANOTHER replacement fuse and it blew that one too after a very short ride back.

We don't have any fuses right now to try and start it again but we bought some online. Hopefully i gave enough details for someone to help me figure out the issue.

 

[Stig / Major Tom]

Haven't forgotten you.....
Studying the wiring diagram....
In the mean time --- Black wire is from the keyed ignition switch (10A)...
Red is from the Pos side of battery, 15A.

If you and your father are interested - www.cyclepedia.com offers a service manual for your scooter. If you subscribe, you can then start a service ticket and communicate with the guys who wrote the service manuals for KYMCO USA.

Stig

[joshuatree91]

In the mean time --- Black wire is from the keyed ignition switch (10A)...
Red is from the Pos side of battery, 15A.
Stig

That's interesting because both of the plastic caps that protect the fuses both say 15a inside.. so we ordered a pack of those online. I guess we got the wrong ones then? If the black wire takes a 10a 250v then we have one of those. The only thing left I guess would be to try it out. What would be the best way to make sure that the fuse is tested and will work properly for riding in the future?

BTW, what would happen if you were to put a 15a 250v fuse in the black wire where the 10a is supposed to go? because i think we did that two times 

[Stig / Major Tom]

My scooter, owner's manual and cyclepedia wiring diagram all agree with this :

red wire - in the yellow plastic fuse case is a 15A fuse
black wire - in the clear fuse case is a 10A fuse

Do not use more than a 10A fuse on the black wire.

Something is shorting to keep tripping the fuse.
This is the first report of this issue with these LIKE's - so, I have little more than guesses to offer.
I'd start by cleaning the two battery terminals and cable ends. Then clean and tighten the (-) battery to frame ground point. (visible under panel right side engine area, small gold hex-head screw securing black (-) battery cable to frame)

Consider using a little shot of electrical contact cleaner in the kill switch and start button - then work them a few times(with the key OFF)?

Again, recommend you spend a little of what you saved in this purchase to obtain a www.cyclepedia.com manual & then ask their techs. The manual will be useful for the years of your ownership.

Stig

[Neil955i]

Again, recommend you spend a little of what you saved in this purchase to obtain a www.cyclepedian.com manual & then ask their techs. The manual will be useful for the years of your ownership.

Stig

Typo in that link Stig?  Should it read www.cyclepedia.com ?  ie without the rogue "n"?

[Stig / Major Tom]

Typo in that link Stig?  Should it read www.cyclepedia.com ?  ie without the rogue "n"?

Yeah, otherwise you get a guy telling jokes on a motorcycle. Which is fun, but less helpful.
Stig

[Neil955i]

Very quick that.  Well done!

[joshuatree91]

My scooter, owner's manual and cyclepedia wiring diagram all agree with this :

red wire - in the yellow plastic fuse case is a 15A fuse
black wire - in the clear fuse case is a 10A fuse

Do not use more than a 10A fuse on the black wire.

Something is shorting to keep tripping the fuse.
This is the first report of this issue with these LIKE's - so, I have little more than guesses to offer.
I'd start by cleaning the two battery terminals and cable ends. Then clean and tighten the (-) battery to frame ground point. (visible under panel right side engine area, small gold hex-head screw securing black (-) battery cable to frame)

Consider using a little shot of electrical contact cleaner in the kill switch and start button - then work them a few times(with the key OFF)?

Again, recommend you spend a little of what you saved in this purchase to obtain a www.cyclepedia.com manual & then ask their techs. The manual will be useful for the years of your ownership.

Stig

Okay, once i get home i'll do all that, and then we'll put the fuse in and see how it runs. Thankfully i already have some electrical contact cleaner i bought for cleaning out an amp. I'll give an update when all is done. Thanks for the help

[joshuatree91]

So i got back home and my dad put in the 10a fuse and it turned on and worked fine and he revved it, nothing wrong, but as soon as he hit the blinker switch the lights turned off, we checked the fuse and sure enough it blew. We put in yet another fuse and it started up again no problem, and this time we tested the blinker switch right away and there was no problem.. so my dad took it for a ride around the block, and when he came back he said it drove fine except for when he used the blinker switch he noticed the lights go out again but he was able to ride it back home.

None of the other switches seem to be a problem except for the blinker switch. So either the switch is faulty or there is a pinched/exposed wire??

Also i DID spray that electrical contact cleaner on the killswitch AND the  blinker switch before our attempts.

[Stig / Major Tom]

You might be able to pry out the signal switch without breaking the panel......but safest way would be to open the clamshell panel with the headlight and all the switches. The switches pop in from the rear of the panel.

With the panels open you might be able to spot a wiring problem as well.
These pix might help.....
https://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=29611.0
Ref:
35200
35200-GFY6-C00
SW ASSY LH HNDL COMP
Price: $16.53
Stig

[joshuatree91]

We tried removing the panel yesterday but didn't know where the top clips were and didn't want to break the plastic so we left it for now. That link you sent should allow us to take it off this time, thanks for that.  What voltage does the fuse need to be?  My dad signed up on cyclepedia.com and bought a subscription and got a support ticket--waiting on that. In the meantime we'll have to inspect the wires.

[CROSSBOLT]

Most automotive glass fuses are rated for 250 volts.

[joshuatree91]

Most automotive glass fuses are rated for 250 volts.

What i meant was what kind of voltage does the fuse need to be for it to work properly, could we use say a 10a 32v? can we use whatever voltage as long as it it higher than the battery's voltage?

[CROSSBOLT]

What i meant was what kind of voltage does the fuse need to be for it to work properly, could we use say a 10a 32v? can we use whatever voltage as long as it it higher than the battery's voltage?

Yup, that's the idea. Voltage rating equal or higher.

[joshuatree91]

Yup, that's the idea. Voltage rating equal or higher.

Okay, cool. For some reason i was thinking we can only use 250v. That's good news because at least now  we can just buy the fuses from autoparts stores no problem.