Does Anyone Run 20-50w in the Summer?

[monkeybongos]

Maybe everyone is over any and all discussions about oil, however I searched for comments re 20-50w and nothing came up.  Have read comments elsewhere that 20 is not thin enough for cold starts, and 50 is no more effective at running temps than 40, so it makes no sense to use 20-50w.

Anyone here ever use 20-50w in their scoots? 

[Stig / Major Tom]

Is someone trying to sell you some?
Or do you have some you need to use up?
If purchasing new - whatever your owner's manual stipulated will be just fine.
Stig

[Ruffus]

@MB, not in my scoots but,
I used many years FUCHS RACING 20-50W in my BMWs (airhead), made those very long pushrods digestable quiet. I still have some cans. Ended than with the new oilhead motors (1100ccm and up) cause they had and have timing chains (at the begin with a lot of trouble). Think I should offer it to an oil museum.

[john grinsel]

20-50 probably will not hurt anything.   WalMart house brand 10-40 works fine,  priced right in US, I have over 500,000 miles experience with it in bike/scooters.

[jak51]

I, too, used 20-50 in my BMW airheads (and Hondas and Kawasakis...), and that was recommended and used by my service guy, but most times I changed my own oil and filters.  I still have a few jugs of Kendall 20-50 in the garage.  I'll use what Kymco recommends for my scoot, however.  Interestingly, Kymco recommends the following types of oil in their manual for my GV 250: 15W-40 or 20W-40 or 50.  So I guess I'll be able to use up what I have in the garage!

Check your owner's manual for your specific model. 

Jeff

[Kansas kymco]

I beleive Kymco recomends 20w50 of a summer in hot weather.  I use Rotella  15w40 synthetic  (T-6) in all my scooters and the Diesel truck. Saves from buying a variety of oil. I would look in your manual to make sure. 

[monkeybongos]

I've always viewed owners manual recommendations as guidelines for average/common conditions, not as gospel or hard and fast rules.  In my case it's 90º+ daily for several months, which is not typical, so maybe a thicker oil than recommended in the manual might be beneficial?

Trying it in the Rebel now, seems OK.  Don't know if the Cali 200 scoot can handle it, or if there could be long term harm from cold starts w 20w.  Probably overthinking it, but you want to use what's best for your engine.
Or at least avoid harming it. 

[Kansas kymco]

Keep in mind the thicker the viscosity the more fractions of horsepower lost.  A lot of new car engines are running 0w-20w  oil for fuel economy. 

On air cooled engines the oil also absorbs a lot of heat and most of these small engines are operated at or close to red line for extended periods.  I would use the oil up you have, especially in hot weather with a air cooled engine.  If you have some cold change to a lower viscosity were only talking about a quart of oil and 10 min job.

[mousejunks]

The correct type of oil is any that is suitable for the temperature range, as well as the blend (synthetic, semi or mineral) and the API classification. Most Kymco engines are simple 1 cylinder engines without variable valve timing or high compression etc and won't specify fancy modern oils.

Below is the oil chart for the Downtown 300/350i. API SJ, a late 90s standard, or higher (SL, SM, SN, SN plus) is acceptable. A wide range of viscosities can be used, depending on the temperature. 5W-50 is recommended as it covers the widest temp range. The manual recommends full synthetic (which is ester or PAO or both) but I can't see the benefit due to the short 5,000km change intervals.

The only issue with 20W-50 is that the scooter takes longer to turn over in the cold. Otherwise I couldn't notice any difference when riding.

[Kansas kymco]

I've always viewed owners manual recommendations as guidelines for average/common conditions, not as gospel or hard and fast rules.  In my case it's 90º+ daily for several months, which is not typical, so maybe a thicker oil than recommended in the manual might be beneficial?

Trying it in the Rebel now, seems OK.  Don't know if the Cali 200 scoot can handle it, or if there could be long term harm from cold starts w 20w.  Probably overthinking it, but you want to use what's best for your engine.
Or at least avoid harming it.

Where you live I wouldn't worry about cold weather starts.  Now if you move to Alaska and ride of a winter it might not be a suitable choice. 

[monkeybongos]

Where you live I wouldn't worry about cold weather starts.  Now if you move to Alaska and ride of a winter it might not be a suitable choice. 

Riding in the Alaskan winter is a good example of not following the manual as gospel.
Oh, it's not cold weather starts that is concern, it's cold starts (starting at ambient temp, before engine has a chance to warm up).  The argument against 20-50w is 20w doesn't flow easily enough to adequately reach all the parts at start up (even at moderate air temps of 50-60º), leading to excess wear.  Don't know if that is true, but I've heard others say it, and wondered what the experienced and educated members here think.

[Kansas kymco]

Riding in the Alaskan winter is a good example of not following the manual as gospel.
Oh, it's not cold weather starts that is concern, it's cold starts (starting at ambient temp, before engine has a chance to warm up).  The argument against 20-50w is 20w doesn't flow easily enough to adequately reach all the parts at start up (even at moderate air temps of 50-60º), leading to excess wear.  Don't know if that is true, but I've heard others say it, and wondered what the experienced and educated members here think.

I beleive you are spot on, it's called oil starvation .  The chart shows what the acceptable temperature range for the different viscosities.