update on my Honda Helix

[Iahawk]

It's been a few weeks now since I bought the 96 Helix from a neighbor. I've had some time to do a little work and then order up the parts I need to get it all fixed up.

After the initial strip down and fluids/filters/plug change...I ordered 2 tires, front brake pads, rear shoes, belt, sliders, exhaust gasket, muffler gasket, fuel filter, led bulbs for tail and turn lamps, rubber shock mount bushings for the 4 shocks. still need to find a windscreen...paying over $100 for one is hard to swallow..

Today I dyed the faded floor plastics back to a nice black with Forever Black bumper & trim dye. It took an ugly gray plastic back to nice black...applied 3 coats of the black gel using a foam brush.

Took the muffler off and wire wheel'd the rust spots in preparation for new semi gloss black bbq paint (I don't like the usual gray color of regular bbq paint).

Cleaned and sanded with 400 grit paper the CVT cover in prep for high gloss black paint.

Replaced rear brake shoes with OEM Honda, cleaned  rear wheel brake area with a little sandpaper and brake kleen.

After pulling the muffler / rear wheel I also removed the air box in order to get a better look at the oily mess that was the back side of the engine. It looks like it's coming from the cylinder gasket (between cylinder and block/case)...but there was also oil coming down from the previous, poorly installed, loose spark plug, so fingers crossed that the plug was the cause and not the cylinder gasket. It's all cleaned up so I'll monitor as I put some more miles on.

Installed LED tail light bulb, have to wait on turn signals until I get an LED flasher relay wired in.

New tires should be here Monday or Tuesday, then I'll take both into my motorcycle shop and pay an hour or two (ouch) of shop rate to mount the new tires..

Found a slight seep from my coolant drain bolt (i reused the crush washer so shame on me)..need new crush washers.

Here's a pic of the mess in the garage and then a before and after of the back of the motor.

The journey continues.

[Kansas kymco]

The black plastic was so faded on one of my Kymco's I asked Dan and he recommended a color dye used in car interiors that is flexible for the faded plastic.  Wipe new is the best restorer I've found for plastic but use it outside, it's very strong smell and probably toxic if inhaled.

[Iahawk]

nothing drives me crazier than faded, gray plastic parts on a scooter. Wasn't aware of the Rustoleum Wipe New, good to know. Happy so far with the results of the Forever Black. It took a few coats to get the look I was after. Time will tell how long it lasts.

I've never had anything where some Mother's Back to Black or even my old go to, petroleum jelly, slathered on for about 24 hours, didn't work. Nothing worked on this scoot's gray floor panels...until the black dye!

[Stig / Major Tom]

Nice posting !
I for one am really enjoying.
Being able to clean the back of the engine was the only part of pulling rear wheels on my LIKE and Liberty that I  enjoyed!
Nothing leaking - just crud.
When younger, hated cars, owned Hinda bikes - but when I did switch to autos (a/c VW's of course, then Rabbits) I kept them very clean. Lost the sale of a white Rabbit because buyer's wife's father said never buy a car with a clean engine. It means he had it steam cleaned to hide massive leaks. I could only laugh as the poor guy drove away, "you almost had a meticulously maintained car!"

Keep 'em coming please.
Stig
You suspect a leak from a loose spark plug??!
Gasoline?

[Iahawk]

You suspect a leak from a loose spark plug??!

Thanks, Stig. More like 'hoping' for the leak to have come from a previously loose, old spark plug. The area around the plug hole was oily and dirty and showed a path down and back. I cleaned it all up. It was also somewhat oily on the front of the motor and below the carb. I do have to tell myself that it's a 25 (almost 26, manufactured July '95) year old scooter and there will be some seeping and leaks. I'll keep a close eye on these areas.

Realizing I should also replace the swing arm bearing that was removed to get wheel off. it's one more thing to order and work on but now is the time to do it. The bearing is a little tough to rotate and it makes a bit of a grinding noise. My problem is I don't have snap ring pliers that are big enough to remove the snap ring...time to buy a new tool....or.. I'm also considering just bringing the swing arm to my motorcycle shop and having them do it..but afraid what it may cost.

Painted the CVT cover last night once the temps cooled a bit. It came out nice. Muffler is next to get painted.

[Stig / Major Tom]

I handed my Vespa dealer my LIKE wheel and City Grip and (clean!) suspension fork and correct new bearing.
Then went prom dress shopping with daughter.
On way home stopped in...He mounted tire and swapped out the bearing for $35.
Later bought Liberty150i from them.
Stig

[Ruffus]

@Iahawk, wooouw, good job.
Seeing your swingarm there:
-since it's cast iron you easily could do the bearing change on your own. Wet the snapring area with WD 40 or similar, take a needlenose plier and take this snapring out. For this bearing is demaged anyway, just drive it out with a big nut and a hammer. Might be corroded in a little, but, should be out in no time. That bearing is most probably a norm piece, available at any bearing shop.

[Iahawk]

Ruffus, you're probably right. I'm sure the bearing is a standard, easily attainable bearing. I will need to order the 2 seals that go in front of and behind the bearing. It looks like the bearing has to go in from the front as the back side has a small lip to keep it from pushing all the way through. The more I thought of paying my shop $100+ for this easy job the more I didn't like the thought!

Here are 2 more pics...I painted the muffler and parts with the (new to me) semi gloss bbq paint. I like the look MUCH better than the traditional flat grayish color of the traditional bbq paint.

I also cleaned the rear wheel of 25 years of muck, tar, dirt and brake dust. Not perfect at all...but much improved. I'll do the same to the front wheel once I remove it (waiting for new tires to show up before removing front wheel).

[Stig / Major Tom]

Hawk, my LIKE's muffler needs painting again.
What brand is this semigloss BBQ paint?
Thanks,
Stig

[Iahawk]

good ol' Rustoleum!

[Ruffus]

@Iahawk, coming back to this bearing.
Are you sure about this two oilseals?
Or are those broken off bearing parts?
Because technically wouldn't make sense to me to have at that spot two oilseals, to cover a sealed bearing. If you can,  take a bearing with end figures...2RS or 2LU, means both sides, have a lid and are "lifetime" lubricated.
Would be interesting yo learn about.

[Iahawk]

Are you sure about this two oilseals?

Ruffus, not too sure about anything regarding bearings! I guess I shouldn't have called them oil seals...the parts diagram refers to them as seals. See first attached pic, although the seals in the picture look different than the actual seals on the bearing...if indeed they are even seals and not just part of the bearing??

I took a close up pic of the bearing so you can see it better. I'm sure it will make more sense once I can remove the bearing. That spring clip / circlip is a tough one...I got one side out, then put it back on becasue I couldn't get the other part off. That thing is strong!

Any additional thoughts or suggestions about the bearing are appreciated. Thanks.

[Ruffus]

@Iahawk,  yes this two pieces (except bearing) are definitely oilseals. Size 25-47-5 (ID-OD-HIGHT) and this is a standard size found at Parker-bearing or similar shop. Now, seeing the part diagram, I know why oilseals. Guys used at that time an "open " ballbearing, instead of a nowadays closed and sealed one.
Circlip: take a needlenose plier and a second waterpump plier.
-Set the needlenose onto circlip / press down
-waterpump pliers on hands of needlenose pliers
-press waterpump handles
-slowly pull all up / out

[Iahawk]

thanks, Ruffus! I was able to remove the circlip and then pry out the oil seal. It is a rubber and metal seal. Then I tried to pound out the bearing from the back. I was beating the h*ll out of it, moved it a bit and then worried I would bend the swingarm or knock the bearing crooked and cause more damage. Soooo....I will go back to my original plan and take it to my dealer to replace for me. Ugh.

Better news..my tires came today! I found Heidenau K61's at Revzilla. German made, good reviews, inexpensive and they have an 'M' speed rating, good for 81 mph. Lots of talk on the Helix boards about the OEM Bridgestone tires only having a 62 mph rating for a scoot that will go 70+.

[Stig / Major Tom]

Yep, I chose the Vespa dealers press over my getting frisky with my rear fork bearing.
Also - we here in the States are always facing dealer closures due to lack of business.
Stig