People GT 300 OverHeat.

[Konstantine]

Hello everyone I'm new in here!

So I will get into the point right away.

I'm from Greece, so it's summer..... Temperature hits 37+ here on the island where I am so... This problem started like Last summer, I was getting over heat engine after 7+ KM of cruising not necessarily in traffic and the bike would throw off the waters from the Left side, I went to my bike technician to see what was wrong, He said back then that the problem was the TAP of the radiator it wasn't closing good enough so that was causing overheating..... Then winter came in had no problems at all,

1 month before my engine when Overheat again.... Stopped the engine right away pulled over checked the can with the water and it was empty...... Strange really strange I filled it with tap water opened the screw for the air to fill it with water so I was sure I haven't any air inside. I started the engine and something was leaking from the engine somewhere under the seat, I removed the seat and I was losing water from a faulty hose water, I tried somehow to stopped it and went to technician again to change oil, water and the hose. The technician said he stretched the scooter no overheat issues and nothing..... so I guess everything was fine.

2 days before, went into town(I'm living 5 km outside of town.) was 37 outside TRAFFIC and traffic lights I did my 1 min job and  and I was getting back to my home right away (so the scooter was working for like 20-25 min). I was hearing the radiator working I was touching with my leg the left side where the water flows and the outside plastic was really hot, I was aware right away to checking the temperature to see what happens.
Temperature Hits red.... released the gas continued for 2 sec.... it gets back to normal..... I continued after 200 metres it gets red again I pulled over turn of the engine waited for like 3-5 min to get cool then I started again with a normal temperature no water spilled this time. I said maybe it's just the temperature but it shouldn't do this because the radiator is there for some reason lol.
Forgot to mention my home is uphill somehow not straight.

Sooo I don't know what else to really check maybe it's the thermostat and it's not opening the radiator when it supposes to open it and it can't get it cool enough, tell me your thoughts.
Kymco 300 People 2011 38k Miles every service on time, also the OILS have good color and the water is fine.

Sorry for the long post but I wanted to give you a full  review.

[CROSSBOLT]

Welcome to the forum! You are at least the third rider from Greece who has joined us!

Go to different bike technician. Your bike technician did not properly remove al air from system the first time. Plus, you may have other leaking hoses. Need more careful inspection.

I suspect your bike is quite old. What year is it?

[Konstantine]

Thank you!!! Yes I thought of changing the technician but it suppose to be one of the best in town with a racing bike team lol, also my bike is model of 2011, I got it with 16k kilometres from 2016 so I have it for like 5 years now. 38k kilometres right now.

[CROSSBOLT]

Thank you!!! Yes I thought of changing the technician but it suppose to be one of the best in town with a racing bike team lol, also my bike is model of 2011, I got it with 16k kilometres from 2016 so I have it for like 5 years now. 38k kilometres right now.

Yes, anyone can make a mistake or get rushed by outside influences.

Several hoses and tubes may need trimming or replacing. THEN the cooling system needs to be properly "burped" to remove air.

[Ruffus]

@Konstantine,
I recently bought and refurbished a Grand Dink 150 in a very neglected shape.
This included a renewal of all oils and liquids.
Coming to coolant: Motor warm. Depends how handy you are, you take off your front shield, open the radiator, take the drain-plug out of your waterpump and let go of all your old coolant. Then take a waterhose with a medium gentle pressure and rinse your cooling system from both sides. Means from drain plug AND from your radiator cap until water appears clean. Don't forget to flush your extension tank (white, under your dashboard). During rinsing (preverable outside somewhere) knead your scoots waterhoses a bit to remove possible residue. Let it drain then. Refill with motocycle approved coolant. Motor on, radiator cap and extension tank open. It will take a few minutes until it warms up again and all the air is out.
Radiator and all hoses MUST feel hot to your hand.
Will take appr. 1 1/2 liters of coolant.

[Konstantine]

Thank you for your replies, I have to stretch it again somehow to see what happens. I will let it on the Double stand alone to work Until the radiator comes on to see if it's gonna get hot again, I can do lot of stuff by my self so I have to check everything again. But one thing is for sure if the problem persists I will have to go the bike to a different technician to get a 2nd opinion.
It's my fault that I didn't go to a different technician from the start.

Today the radiator was working again Fully open because I can hear it spin really loud the temp was fine turned off the engine and let the radiator work until it stops. Stopped after 1 min. Next thing I will do is to let the radiator work with the engine On to see what happens then.

But I have a question.... how it's possible to have air in the system if the radiator cap is open with the screw air  radiator under my seat(this screw if you remove it suppose to release the air) I mean if you see water comin out of the screw under your seat for some time this means that there is no air inside your system am I right?

[CROSSBOLT]

Thank you for your replies, I have to stretch it again somehow to see what happens. I will let it on the Double stand alone to work Until the radiator comes on to see if it's gonna get hot again, I can do lot of stuff by my self so I have to check everything again. But one thing is for sure if the problem persists I will have to go the bike to a different technician to get a 2nd opinion.
It's my fault that I didn't go to a different technician from the start.

Today the radiator was working again Fully open because I can hear it spin really loud the temp was fine turned off the engine and let the radiator work until it stops. Stopped after 1 min. Next thing I will do is to let the radiator work with the engine On to see what happens then.

But I have a question.... how it's possible to have air in the system if the radiator cap is open with the screw air  radiator under my seat(this screw if you remove it suppose to release the air) I mean if you see water comin out of the screw under your seat for some time this means that there is no air inside your system am I right?

The air that is causing your problem has to come out the uppermost part (open radiator cap) after thermostat opens.

[Konstantine]

I have done that too, with only the radiator cap open, the thing is that is spills out the water like a fountain and then it sucks in again... so I guess it sucks more air into the system. Not sure why it's doing it like this but I will try it again.

[CROSSBOLT]

I have done that too, with only the radiator cap open, the thing is that is spills out the water like a fountain and then it sucks in again... so I guess it sucks more air into the system. Not sure why it's doing it like this but I will try it again.

There are several excellent posts on here how to do this burp exactly. I have done it on several cars but not on the DT300i nor the People GTi300 (same engine).

[Ruffus]

@Konstantine, guess you talk about fan if you refer to radiator.
My suspicion is a rotten or stuck thermostate which is located at the end of one of your waterhoses going into your cylinderhead.Take it out and test it in HOT and COLD water. If rotten and u cannot get a spare, leave it out.

I lived in Cyprus for a while (same climate as your island) and a part of my job was to supervise our fleets workshop. Some vehicles and boatmotors were out of order because of rotten thermostates. Had sparepart delivery probs. So l ordered our workshop guys to take the thermostates out completely, (l know there is a reason for such an item) which they reluctantely did. Vehicles and boats back on service again, without blown headgaskets and other malaises. Small increase of fuel consumption but no other cases.
Just fill your cooling system in peace, let it rest awhile, then again, until no air is burping. Close radiator cap.

This spilling out water is caused by the waterpump applying pressure on your cooling system. Warm water extends. For this you have your extension tank. Check there for clogged hoses too.

One more thought on this matter.
If you went for awhile with an overheated motor there is a slight chance of a demaged headgasket.
Do or let do a compression test. If a blown gasket lets through a little, you might have this symptoms too.

[agilebda]

Thank you for your replies, I have to stretch it again somehow to see what happens. I will let it on the Double stand alone to work Until the radiator comes on to see if it's gonna get hot again, I can do lot of stuff by my self so I have to check everything again. But one thing is for sure if the problem persists I will have to go the bike to a different technician to get a 2nd opinion.
It's my fault that I didn't go to a different technician from the start.

Today the radiator was working again Fully open because I can hear it spin really loud the temp was fine turned off the engine and let the radiator work until it stops. Stopped after 1 min. Next thing I will do is to let the radiator work with the engine On to see what happens then.

But I have a question.... how it's possible to have air in the system if the radiator cap is open with the screw air  radiator under my seat(this screw if you remove it suppose to release the air) I mean if you see water comin out of the screw under your seat for some time this means that there is no air inside your system am I right?

Also check the entire system for cracked hose, especially the little highlighted parts in the pic attached. Radiator fan switch has been a culprit in my experiences.