10k mile service at my closest Kymco service dept is charging $1000

[spikebites]

I hate that there is only one service center in my area.  They can price gouge like crazy.  How can service cost 1/5 the price of the scooter?

I'm finally at 10k miles, and have done oil changes and transmission oil changes every 3-4k.  I figure at 10k I should get it checked and looked over to make sure nothing needs to be "fixed" or replaced but for 1k I'd rather just youtube it and do it myself.

Anything I should look for specifically?  I'm getting my tires replaced, the second time in 10k miles, and definitely swapping out my battery.  Brake fluid still looks good.  I ordered a new air filter since that looks super easy to do myself.  What would you guys recommend I change?  Spark plugs? Since the seat will be out anyways.

Side note. My oil lug nut is stuck or too tight. The last time I changed my oil was 3k miles ago, but that was easily 3 years or so ago.  I plan on spraying it with WD-40 hoping it'll work but if that doesn't work, any other options other than taking it to a shop that has a powered gun?

Thanks all!

[CROSSBOLT]

Which way are you turning the drain plug to remove it?!

The shop should charge you $1000 USD to "go through" your machine to "see if anything needs fixed or replaced." That is an open invite to dismantle the entire bike!

[mousejunks]

Definitely change the spark plug, you may find it could be a bit loose from vibration, otherwise they can last 20,000km with no issues. Check the engine for leaks around the gaskets, however this is unlikely or minimal. You could also flush the coolant however stock coolant is good and any new coolant must be silicate-free. 10,000 miles is almost near the drive belt change interval of 20,000km, you will need a variator holding tool, a torque wrench and breaker bar. Lastly check your brake pads for wear.

For the oil drain plug (not the shallow oil strainer plug next to it) you can use a long wrench extension, breaker bar or impact wrench to force it to loosen with no issues. Tighten by hand only.

[CROSSBOLT]

Definitely change the spark plug, you may find it could be a bit loose from vibration, otherwise they can last 20,000km with no issues. Check the engine for leaks around the gaskets, however this is unlikely or minimal. You could also flush the coolant however stock coolant is good and any new coolant must be silicate-free. 10,000 miles is almost near the drive belt change interval of 20,000km, you will need a variator holding tool, a torque wrench and breaker bar. Lastly check your brake pads for wear.

For the oil drain plug (not the shallow oil strainer plug next to it) you can use a long wrench extension, breaker bar or impact wrench to force it to loosen with no issues. Tighten by hand only.

10000 miles for the CVT belt?! 20000 km?

Just checked my owner's manual (real paper one!) and 20000 km/12000 miles. Okay, I'll give you a typo! But that is insanely short! While it will definitely sell parts 20000 MILES is more realistic.

My original DT300i had 22000 miles after an extensive 8-900 mile round trip to Cumberland Gap. Opened the CVT to inspect and found the mice had completely blocked the airflow into the belt housing. The belt was still continuous and still worked but missing many "teeth!" Had it not overheated it would have lasted another 10000 miles at least.

Yes, I am that cheap! Har, har!

[spikebites]

Which way are you turning the drain plug to remove it?!

The shop should charge you $1000 USD to "go through" your machine to "see if anything needs fixed or replaced." That is an open invite to dismantle the entire bike!

Isn't it tighty righty lefty loosey?

Or, wait, if I am looking at the bike, i am turning the wrench to the right, or counter clockwise.  Yeah that should be correct, right? haha.

[spikebites]

10000 miles for the CVT belt?! 20000 km?

Just checked my owner's manual (real paper one!) and 20000 km/12000 miles. Okay, I'll give you a typo! But that is insanely short! While it will definitely sell parts 20000 MILES is more realistic.

My original DT300i had 22000 miles after an extensive 8-900 mile round trip to Cumberland Gap. Opened the CVT to inspect and found the mice had completely blocked the airflow into the belt housing. The belt was still continuous and still worked but missing many "teeth!" Had it not overheated it would have lasted another 10000 miles at least.

Yes, I am that cheap! Har, har!

The shop did mention that the belt needed to be replaced at 12k miles. I don't really ride it very  much, 10k miles over 7 years.  I'll take a look at it when I remove my seat again. 

So look for missing "teeth"?

[CROSSBOLT]

The shop did mention that the belt needed to be replaced at 12k miles. I don't really ride it very  much, 10k miles over 7 years.  I'll take a look at it when I remove my seat again. 

So look for missing "teeth"?

Of course they would want you to replace the belt at 20k kms/12k miles because that is what the book says. You cannot go wrong by doing that. I just think it is premature.

The belt looks like it has "teeth" like a timing belt inside and outside. The "teeth" actually form blocks that are squeezed by the sheave (pulley) faces. The web in the middle of these blocks actually transmit the torque from engine to gearbox. The patented principle is over 100 years old!

[boksaman]

Things to be done by service manual

https://imgur.com/a/bmIt8Vq

I noticed you haven't mentioned changing oil filter, i would do that - they are cheap and easy to replace (make sure you are turning the oil filter cap proper way - counter clockwise, take note it's turned upside down)

[Stig / Major Tom]

Did they give you a print-out of the work to be done for that figure ($$) ?
I asked my dealer the price of the first service soon after my purchase. He printed out a work order detailing the labor and parts - which was priced at 10% of my scooter's OTD price.
If you are getting tires, valves, filters, oils, coolant, CVT serviced w/rollers and a belt - that price may not be too crazy for a once in a decade visit with a large scooter.

just sayin'

Stig

[Ruffus]

Prices over there are breathtaking!!
Even it's once perhaps per decade, dealership needs not to be spoiled by letting them do everything.
Wheels can be taken off easy and be brought to a tire guy to change. Brake fluid costs € 5,- per 500 ml. Spanners to check valves..... But each its own.

[Iahawk]

Spikebites - the others have summed it up pretty well…the parts to do this are relatively inexpensive IF you want to do it yourself.

My big question (asumption?) is since you said it’s been 3 or 4 years since an oil change that you are not an avid Do It Yourselfer? If this is beyond what you are capable of doing (or have no desire to do this)then just take it to the dealer and be done with it. Bite the bullet and pay up.

If you want to do it yourself there is a ton of info available on youtube to pretty much walk you through all the steps for the needed maintenance.

I would guess most regular posters, here, have never taken a scoot into a dealer for any type of routine maintenance, they do it themselves.

[Ruffus]

Also I would see DIY (in my capability) on all kind of technical stuff I own, to familiarize myself with this item.
Next time when, at Kymco very seldom, a technical issue appears, I do know what I did and would be able to sort out this fault. Is it above my skills or I do not have a certain tool or knowledge, okay, a technician of any kind has to come by.
BUT, (I do not overestimate my skills) I still think that, I as the payer and owner of all my items am for sure more interested in, to get them going, keep them operational/in good shape, than an ill-mooded, badly trained "technician" ever could be.
And gives me some satisfaction plus spare pettycash.

[CROSSBOLT]

10000 miles for the CVT belt?! 20000 km?

Just checked my owner's manual (real paper one!) and 20000 km/12000 miles. Okay, I'll give you a typo! But that is insanely short! While it will definitely sell parts 20000 MILES is more realistic.

My original DT300i had 22000 miles after an extensive 8-900 mile round trip to Cumberland Gap. Opened the CVT to inspect and found the mice had completely blocked the airflow into the belt housing. The belt was still continuous and still worked but missing many "teeth!" Had it not overheated it would have lasted another 10000 miles at least.

Yes, I am that cheap! Har, har!

I need to reconsider this! Doing PM for a planned trip to Alabama the drive belt at 15000 miles was starting to disintegrate! Two sections of "teeth" on the inside were eaten away like rats had been nibbling (see picture).