Changing oil viscosity for colder weather, -makes sense at all?

[Like50]

Kymco Like 50 cc fourstroke, with carburator, driven 6 tkm. Driven with 15w-40 mineral oil, only summertime use, winters in garage. Oil change max. 1500 km during scooter life.
Thought, that now its getting colder and the driving season will go on, to change the oil for fully synthetic 10w-60. Because of easier cold start (10w) and also thicker (60) when hot engine after hour almost full throttle in longer distances. Fully synthetic for stabiler performance that mineral oil can not do.
Original service manual tells: 4T SUPER 15w-50, 4T TEC 15w-50, 4T RACING 10w-60. Users guide tells 15w-40 API SG/CD.
 What do you guys think about the change or eat your greens and shut up.

[Stig / Major Tom]

Yes.
It does.

Stig

[Iahawk]

I would think in Finland, if riding in the Winter, that lower first number, the cold viscosity (5W- or even 0W- ) would make more sense than changing to an oil with a thicker 'hot' viscosity, like a 50 or 60 weight.

If the scoot will ever sit outside and start cold then you'd want something with a lower cold number than 15. 15W is recommended down to about 32 F or 0 C.

[NomadCF]

I've always varied my oil based on temp/season and Ive always noticed a difference. In the summer I jump to the heaviest weight I can and come Winter The lightest oil.

Trying start an intruder 800 (carbureted) in dead of winter required 3 things inorder for it consistently start. A good battery (preferably lithium), the head light switched off and a really light weight oil. Diverge from this and you'll have a metal sculpture instead of a ride home.

[Like50]

I probably need to do cold starts, lets say - 5 c or warmer but not colder. Thats why I lower 15w to 10w. I must rethink the 5w use, but at this point I think its too light "water" for scooter that 15w is common and recommend. Too much difference, just maybe. Vespa recommends for 50 cc in Finland all year round oil 5w-40 synthetic, 6 tkm change because of good oil filter that Kymco doesnt have. Wondering, whats the difference between those engines and tolerances that explains the different oil viscosity recommendation. Four valves maybe, tolerances of valves and the wheel of fortune, who knows.
From 40 to 60 I seek simply bit better thickness whenever hot trying to follow the manual, from mineral to synthetic the balance in different conditions.
Thanks guys, free word may continue.

[Kansas kymco]

I would use a a 5w-40 synthetic for winter.

[Ruffus]

@Like 50,
do you have a kickstart feature on your LIKE?
IF you have, no need to worry about oil viscosity.
IF not, like KK said, any brand 0/5w- syntethic will do.

[Like50]

I do have working kickstarter, service few weeks ago check it and greased it a bit, while changing new drive belt. I try to remember to use it regulary, so it wont stuck etc. if/when needed.
Battery is from june this year, basic 6 ah, starter itself is genuine, so in nine year age can die whenever.
It is starting to seem like I must come down from 10w to 5w for cold starts, not yet but probably october - november. So I have time to figure it out still left. Thanks guys.

[Iahawk]

I did an oil change yesterday on my Honda Helix...have put  a little over 500 miles on it since i purchased and did original oil change. Early, i know, but I wanted to get a change performed and look at the condition of the oil (no oil filter on these). Honda recommends a 1,000 mile change. I put in synthetic Valvoline European car formula 5W-40. i went with the 5W since I'm thinking that with all the extra wind protection i can ride the Helix longer into the cold weather than i can my other scoot and bike. ideally it will never need to be started from sitting out side of my garage..but just in case I went with the 5W-40.

[Kansas kymco]

I know some old timers are leary of using lighter weight oils.  Today's oils offer superior protection to oils of just a few years ago. A lot of new cars run 0w-20 for fuel savings.  I use Rotella T-6 15w-40 synthetic  year around  but I don't ride of a winter. Rotella makes a 5w-30 T-6 synthetic as well. Castrol makes a good oil for motorcycles /scooters as well.  People on this forum use Wallyworld brand oil as well.

I think the most important thing is to keep the oil changed since they don't have a filter regardless of brand.

[Like50]

I have changed oil first time at 3040 km in june this year at sellers garage before driving home after one kilometer test drive before buying. Then at 3878, 4650, 5241 and at 5923 km. Takes 0.7 liter mineral 15w-40 API SL/CF (3.5 € / liter), owner manual tells API SF/CD will do. In these short term change, the oil looks like oil, not black dusty liquid, I have learned. The oil "filter" in this engine is a joke IMHO, thats why short intervals needed. User manual says 2000 km, I find "liter per 1000 km" interval good enough, means 0.7 l is 700 km. I read that somewhere at web, dont remember where.
Seems like they dont sell here in Finland 15w-40 synthetic oils in bigger markets, only some small webshops salty priced. 10w-40 exists in every price, label, you name it. Well, Ebay etc. can be used if needed.

[mrmike]

Mobil 1 for me! I run 5W-20 in one car, 5W-30 in the other, and 15W-50 in lawn mowers, garden tractor, and snow thrower. Everything sits in a heated (50 degree) garage not out in the cold. I'll use the same 15W-50 in my new X-Town 300i. IMHO Synthetic is the way to go! 

[Like50]

I have now rode 600 km with Eurol Maxence 10w-60 in Like 50, after using 15w-40 mineral. Cools better, the engine does not run out of power when heating than before. Mechanical noise from the engine is quite quet in every situation, maybe or imagine only. Runs a little bit faster, few kms per hour. Starts easy from cold. Does not burn more gas, propably a bit less, as I have tried to check. 2 l/100 km is possible.
Will carry on with this  synthetic motor oil, max 1000 km interval, manual recommends 2 000 km.

[Kansas kymco]

Keep in mind the higher viscosity of oil the more horsepower is taken away from the engine.  That's why the newer cars use 0w-20w for fuel savings as well. On a air cooled engine I would follow the guidelines of the manufacturer for oil viscosity and  temp range.

[Like50]

Keep in mind the higher viscosity of oil the more horsepower is taken away from the engine.  That's why the newer cars use 0w-20w for fuel savings as well. On a air cooled engine I would follow the guidelines of the manufacturer for oil viscosity and  temp range.

True, now when you tell me. Now when with 10w-60 oil does best 58? kmh with 2.1 L / 100 km (checked today when filling) gas, the combination is near optimal, that you can have with this also basic variator and restricted engine IMO. Its better than using mineral 15w-40 that I had. So the manual is right you might say, with its from 10-15w to 40-60 viscosity recommendation, that needs to be followed.
Edit: just changed oil, 700 km interval, sucked out seven desiliters with pump. Checked also that filling was not too much. Eurol maxence synthetic 10w-60.