Author Topic: New 2022 Kymco AK 550  (Read 8242 times)

jermwars

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Re: New 2022 Kymco AK 550
« Reply #45 on: November 12, 2021, 08:00:29 PM »

First, that service manual is based on earlier models in Europe or in Taiwan.
The USA service schedule per the owner manual is much better for interval miles. First oil change at 600 miles, then 3000 miles, then 6000 miles and every 6000 miles after that. That's not so extreme and is actually still common for most bikes in the USA. The air filter inspection is every 6000 miles but replace is at every 12,000 miles. Not bad really.

Oh, ya...i figured that out eventually :P

Just thinking there has to be some for the disparity. Road condition was the only thing i could come up with...And agreed!! The ACTUAL maintenance schedule...the one in the pretty kickarse box which ill keep for EVER...is pretty sensible and in line with other machines of its class.

Weird thing is that my certified kymco professional service provider would be unaware of the difference and COMPLETELY unwilling to listen to me about the difference even though i was looking right at the manual.

Ill stop about the service guy. I know i will.
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jermwars

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Re: New 2022 Kymco AK 550
« Reply #46 on: November 12, 2021, 08:05:30 PM »
BTW - the dealer I went through had just ordered and was expecting a 2022 Matte Silver Crystal AK 550 when I had called them last week. I mentioned about really liking the Matte Deep Blue and they said they could order that and get it by this week. They ordered it on Thursday and had it in the shop by Monday. If a dealer can get a special order color in 2 business days I'd say USA stock availability is starting to ramp up.

Having said that I will also add that there are many Kymco dealers, and dealers of other bikes as well, who are too lazy IMO to bother putting in an order for something a customer specifically wants or for models that they don't want to bother selling. Their loss.

I liked the blue one too...but it would have cost another $1000 or so.
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rjs987

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Re: New 2022 Kymco AK 550
« Reply #47 on: November 12, 2021, 11:47:30 PM »
After 455 miles riding the AK I think I can give a little bit of an assessment of this scooter. I say "I think" because 90% of those miles is highway so not a lot of slower roads traveled yet.

Starting from the top:
The shield is plenty for my needs and comfort. There is more protection than it would seem just looking at it. Most of the miles so far have been with the shield in the lower position. In this position I do get a stream of wind over the shield and maybe a little around it. But I want that during the warm and hot months when I would have the shield in the low position. I wear a full face helmet (not a modular) and like having the air stream flowing to the vents at the top of my helmet. The wind hits just above the visor on me so that's perfect. I only just recently moved the shield to the upper position and went on a 20 mile ride with it that way. There was plenty of protection with the air stream going over my helmet. This upper position is 1.5 inches higher and not angled back as much as the lower position so that bumps the air just over my helmet. Maybe, just maybe, I feel a little air on the very top but that's to be expected since I am after all on a motor-scooter (If you really want NO wind on you when you ride then stay inside your fully enclosed cage and keep the windows closed).

The seat is comfortable. I was a little concerned about that since I've not sat on a really comfortable stock seat until my CTX1300. My Burgman had a Corbin seat which was very comfortable, much more so than the CTX. Even more so than the Gold Wing I had years ago. I was wondering how many miles before I started to feel like I needed to get off the bike to rest but I just kept going and never got to that point. Either I changed or the stock seats are getting better or this Kymco AK 550 seat in particular is really that good. At least to me it is. I was comfortable the entire 200+ miles of the first day riding back from the dealer as well as 200+ miles on the next day. 406 miles total for both days.

I mentioned before after I first had a chance to sit on one of these how the ergonomics worked out for leg/foot room. I still hold to that. My reach to the grips on the AK has almost just the same feel as my reach was on the Burgman 650. Not enough to really tell any difference, although I'm sure in a side view picture a slight difference can be seen it is so slight so as to be hard to tell.

On my Burgman I found the only really comfortable place for my feet was right at the bend from the level foot board to the slanted foot board. My knees and hips were bent too much to be comfortable for long with my feet fully on the level foot board and the slanted foot board was just a little far away for me. I could keep my feet on the slanted board but my knees were too straight so a bit of a strain. On the AK I find it comfortable to keep my feet on the level foot board for a long time since the seat is higher and the more I ride it the more I am convinced the extra height is between the seat and level foot board. I can also more comfortably put my feet fully on the slanted foot board as well. My feet do still tend to drift to that place right at the notch in between slanted and level foot boards with the ball of my foot on the slant and my heal on the level out of habit. But with the AK I find I just leave my feet on the level foot board more and more. Since there is more distance from the seat to the level boards my hips and knees are not bent as much so are much more comfortable. I used to be young enough when all this didn't matter so much but those years are way past. I do definitely find the foot boards on the AK are longer, but not wider, than on the Burgman 650. So I can slide my feet forward or back a little on the level foot boards, or up or down a little on the slanted foot boards, before running out of foot board. The AK foot boards have a notch between the level and slanted boards that allow my toe to slide even more forward when on the level foot board.

The seat height is more than on MY Burgman 650 and also more than the stock Burgman 650. Burgman seat height = 29.9 inches. AK 550 seat height = 30.9 inches. For my comparison my ST1100 seat height = 31.5 inches. I could flat foot both feet easily on my Burgman. I can also do that on the AK but not as easily. If I slide up a little on the seat I can flat foot both sides but if I stay back in the seat I can only flat foot one side at a time. But the other foot is solidly on the ground if not down on my heal. I am 5 ft 9 in. with a 32 inch inseam. I never feel any instability on the AK while coming to or holding at a stop.

The ride so far is very nice. The engine does rev higher while doing the same thing as the Burgman. The red line is the same on both machines. The low end power feels better on the AK and acceleration also feels better. Holding speed on the Interstate highways at 65 mph is the same even with the engine revving higher on the AK. It does not feel like it's revving too high at any speed once I become accustomed to hearing/feeling/seeing that it is at a higher rpm. Just another something to become used to as with any new bike. Sort of like keeping the Power Mode turned on all the time with the Burgman. So far the mpg is as good as with the Burgman. I wasn't expecting that with this being a NEW bike. Usually mpg starts out a little lower than expected with a new bike and improves as the miles add on. If it goes as is expected then I will be very pleased with the mpg. I actually already am pleased since so far I've been getting around 55 mpg with one tank that I refilled before it was half gone that was below 50 mpg. But that low mpg was expected also since the temps during that part of the ride were below 50 F and in my experience the mpg starts to really drop about there.

The suspension is as good as I've been reading and hearing about in reviews. Going down mildly bouncy roads, where the pavement is not bumpy but just not so flat, the bike behaves as any other bike does and follows the "wave" of the pavement. But on bumps and uneven cracks in pavement the AK front end makes those a little softer than the Burgman did. There is no shock at the front end when hitting those. And the rear soaks up the bumps and uneven cracks as well. The rear shocks are not adjustable on the standard AK 550. There was a special edition that came out overseas a few years ago that did have adjustable shocks but that has not been the norm for the entire run since the end of 2017 when this bike was first announced. Overall I think the suspension is really good.

Almost forgot to mention about the heated grips. I did have a chance to try those out on that one leg of the trip home where the temps dropped below 50 F. I never went above the lowest setting and my hands were hot! I'll be testing just how well they work with my hands and gloves when the temps get really cold, like close to zero F. I'm still skeptical if they will be enough for me at those temps but we'll see.

The built-in features are neat. It is very nice to do a quick check of tire psi using the integrated TPMS and also flip past the voltage dispay. I usually leave it on either the voltage monitor or average mpg display while riding. Someday I'll rig up something temporary to mount my phone to do a cross check compare of the speedometer with the phone GPS.

The keyless system is way different to use than having an actual key but I'm getting used to it. The keyless control is really not as complicated as it looks and doesn't really have as much complexity as it seems at first glance. It basically does the same functions as a standard keyed ignition switch but just without inserting a key. It turns on the bike, opens the seat storage, opens the gas cap cover, locks the handlebars. And that's really it. It is nice not having to find my key to put into the ignition switch, but I do need to make sure I know where that fob is located and that it is secure in a zippered pocket in my gear.

The Noodoe system is cool. It could be much better but still nice to have some of the features enabled on the bike. I've already experienced how the notifications work for missed text messages and missed phone calls. Those only show up when sitting at a stop light for a little while and then go away when I start moving. I've been playing with the navigation that is built into the app. There are many quirks to it but I think I work through those to make it usable for me. Still a work in progress. I have found that if I set a way point just OFF the road I actually ride on the nav tends to want me to keep circling around that point until I hit right on it. That's usually only when I set a way point on a business or landmark that I cannot actually ride exactly to. The only way around it when that happens is to stop and reset the route to start at "my current location" and then it will move on. The nav does recalculate as expected and gets me to where I programmed it to go. It even has voice prompts for turn by turn. I'm still getting used to where some of the settings are in the program. One of the issues that has been reported is that because the Noodoe system, and also the keyless system, is always on in the background then the battery tends to drain more rapidly than any other bike. I have found that this doesn't happen quite as much if I make sure to turn off BT on my phone and also put my keyless fob in a Faraday pouch so the bike isn't continually trying to recognize those when they are near enough to be detected by those systems. I also keep the battery plugged into my battery maintainer. The battery at rest seems to show 12.7 vdc. But after a day it drops to 12.6 vdc unless I keep it plugged into the maintainer. I have ordered a new Battery Tender Plus to use just on my AK and use my other maintainer alternately on my wife's scooter and the JD lawn tractor. There is a setting in the app to enable the bike to remember the BT connection for a set number of days. This plays into the battery drain. The trade off is if I set this to a short time I have to re-pair the bike to the phone if that time is past or if I set this to a longer number of days the battery goes down just a little more. But keeping it connected to the Batt Tender would solve that issue.

I'm having fun on this new scooter and will continue to report on what I learn about it. My first oil/filter change interval is coming up in about 140 miles. I think due to the temp trends of the next many weeks I'll be doing that maintenance a little before the scheduled 600 miles. 461 miles on the odometer right now. I'd like to get at least another 80-90 miles riding before I do that and also get the job done next Tuesday. I say that since that is the next and likely the last day this year that will have temps over 60 F per the current forecast. There are already several videos on YouTube that show doing the oil/filter change so I don't think I need to be redundant about that.
/bob
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Ruffus

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Re: New 2022 Kymco AK 550
« Reply #48 on: November 13, 2021, 09:55:17 AM »
@rjs, thank you for this thorough review.
Happy and safe scootering, Ruffus

Neil955i

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Re: New 2022 Kymco AK 550
« Reply #49 on: November 13, 2021, 11:51:49 AM »
@rjs, thank you for this thorough review.

Agreed Bob, a useful and detailed first impressions. Glad you’re enjoying it.
Regards & ride safe,
Neil

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Past bikes: BSA C15. Honda S/wing (GL500). Kawasaki GPz750. BMW K100RS. Kawasaki GPZ900R. Yamaha FJ1200 x2. Sprint. Triumph Daytona 900. Kawasaki ZX-7R. T595 Daytona. Kawasaki ZX-9R x2. Triumph Daytona 955i. X-Town

NomadCF

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Re: New 2022 Kymco AK 550
« Reply #50 on: November 13, 2021, 12:12:54 PM »
Oh, ya...i figured that out eventually :P

Just thinking there has to be some for the disparity. Road condition was the only thing i could come up with...And agreed!! The ACTUAL maintenance schedule...the one in the pretty kickarse box which ill keep for EVER...is pretty sensible and in line with other machines of its class.

Weird thing is that my certified kymco professional service provider would be unaware of the difference and COMPLETELY unwilling to listen to me about the difference even though i was looking right at the manual.

Ill stop about the service guy. I know i will.

This shop will probably also wrongly insist on having to use a jaso ma/ma2 oil in your AK, costing you possibly even more money. There's nothing "wrong" with using it. But you don't "have" to.

jermwars

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Re: New 2022 Kymco AK 550
« Reply #51 on: November 13, 2021, 03:40:28 PM »
Awesome write-up. You're really good at that. Quite articulate. Are you a writer?
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rjs987

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Re: New 2022 Kymco AK 550
« Reply #52 on: November 13, 2021, 04:40:20 PM »

This shop will probably also wrongly insist on having to use a jaso ma/ma2 oil in your AK, costing you possibly even more money. There's nothing "wrong" with using it. But you don't "have" to.


Why do you say that? My owner manual calls for using JASO type oil. EVERY bike with a wet clutch calls for using a JASO type oil. The minimum requirement with a wet clutch that the AK does have is that any oil you do use MUST NOT BE certified as Resource Conserving nor Energy Conserving since those designations indicate the inclusion of special extra slippery additives, over and above any other additives, which WILL destroy the clutch plates/pads over time. Usually the results of this happen within the span of one oil change but sometimes the more severe results may not be seen until the second oil change. In the USA there is an API circle on many oil bottles with an inner circle and outer ring. If the outer bottom ring is blank then it is good for using with a wet clutch. That outer bottom ring is where Resource Conserving or Energy Conserving will be indicated. Those bottles that don't have this circle should have that designated somewhere on the bottle or at least in documentation about the oil. JASO MA or JASO MA2 are simply certifications that indicate the oil is good for bikes with a wet clutch. In my past bikes I've usually used Rotella T6 full synthetic which is certified as JASO MA/MA2. Sometimes I have used SuperTech full synthetic 10w-40 until they changed it to make it a Resource Conserving oil and then I stopped. Sometimes I have used Valvoline when I can find it with the JASO MA certification. Personally I don't care what brand or viscosity oil anyone chooses to use. But if asked I will always say that if you have a wet clutch don't use any oil that is not certified JASO MA or is designated as Resource Conserving or Energy Conserving... unless you want to be doing clutch service in the near future.


So I agree that you don't have to use the oil bought from a dealer (if you do your own oil changes). But do be careful what oil you do use.

Awesome write-up. You're really good at that. Quite articulate. Are you a writer?


Thanks. And no, not a writer. But I am a detail person and a little anal about some things.  :o
« Last Edit: November 13, 2021, 04:41:58 PM by rjs987 »
/bob
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NomadCF

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Re: New 2022 Kymco AK 550
« Reply #53 on: November 13, 2021, 05:10:09 PM »

Why do you say that? My owner manual calls for using JASO type oil. EVERY bike with a wet clutch calls for using a JASO type oil. The minimum requirement with a wet clutch that the AK does have is that any oil you do use MUST NOT BE certified as Resource Conserving nor Energy Conserving since those designations indicate the inclusion of special extra slippery additives, over and above any other additives, which WILL destroy the clutch plates/pads over time. Usually the results of this happen within the span of one oil change but sometimes the more severe results may not be seen until the second oil change. In the USA there is an API circle on many oil bottles with an inner circle and outer ring. If the outer bottom ring is blank then it is good for using with a wet clutch. That outer bottom ring is where Resource Conserving or Energy Conserving will be indicated. Those bottles that don't have this circle should have that designated somewhere on the bottle or at least in documentation about the oil. JASO MA or JASO MA2 are simply certifications that indicate the oil is good for bikes with a wet clutch. In my past bikes I've usually used Rotella T6 full synthetic which is certified as JASO MA/MA2. Sometimes I have used SuperTech full synthetic 10w-40 until they changed it to make it a Resource Conserving oil and then I stopped. Sometimes I have used Valvoline when I can find it with the JASO MA certification. Personally I don't care what brand or viscosity oil anyone chooses to use. But if asked I will always say that if you have a wet clutch don't use any oil that is not certified JASO MA or is designated as Resource Conserving or Energy Conserving... unless you want to be doing clutch service in the near future.


So I agree that you don't have to use the oil bought from a dealer (if you do your own oil changes). But do be careful what oil you do use.


Thanks. And no, not a writer. But I am a detail person and a little anal about some things.  :o


The AK is a CVT there is no clutch. Also you should rerear your manual. There is no mention of the ma Orr ma2 oil. It only lists the weight.

Again CVTs don't have wet clutches!
« Last Edit: November 13, 2021, 05:44:44 PM by NomadCF »

rjs987

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Re: New 2022 Kymco AK 550
« Reply #54 on: November 13, 2021, 06:00:36 PM »

The AK is a CVT there is no clutch. Also you should rerear your manual. There is no mention of the ma Orr ma2 oil. It only lists the weight.

Again CVTs don't have wet clutches!


No, there is definitely a clutch that is after any CVT in a scooter drive train. Even little 50 cc scooters have a clutch between the CVT and final drive gears at the rear wheel. However in the swing arm mounted engines with the CVT along the swing arm the clutch is a dry clutch. But in every scooter with a frame mounted engine that I've looked into the clutch is a wet clutch that shares the engine oil.
There is no clutch LEVER since the clutch is automatic. But there is a clutch. I HAVE been reading my service manual for the AK and there is an entire section just on the clutch and reduction gear set that is between the CVT and final drive/timing belt. And I have read the service manual for my wife's Metropolitan and my Burgman as well as worked on those. THERE IS A CLUTCH. The CVT is in place of a fixed gear transmission, but it does not replace the clutch. Basic vehicle drive train mechanics. Almost the only vehicle that may not have a clutch is an electric drive vehicle. But even then, if there is a gas motor, such as with a hybrid, there is a clutch in those as well.


And just to add to complexity any bike with DCT has TWO clutches! And those are usually wet clutches.


If you have a swing arm mounted CVT and clutch you don't have to be concerned with what oil goes into the engine... other than recommended viscosity and oil serviceability rating. But if the clutch is mounted as part of the engine casing, as in the AK 550, then you do.




BTW- whats "ma Orr"? typo? Oh, you were referring to JASO MA/MA2... and there definitely is mention of JASO in the owner manual. Been working with and seeing those specs on oil for over the last 15 years.
« Last Edit: November 13, 2021, 06:02:31 PM by rjs987 »
/bob
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jermwars

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Re: New 2022 Kymco AK 550
« Reply #55 on: November 13, 2021, 06:32:58 PM »

Why do you say that? My owner manual calls for using JASO type oil. EVERY bike with a wet clutch calls for using a JASO type oil. The minimum requirement with a wet clutch that the AK does have is that any oil you do use MUST NOT BE certified as Resource Conserving nor Energy Conserving since those designations indicate the inclusion of special extra slippery additives, over and above any other additives, which WILL destroy the clutch plates/pads over time. Usually the results of this happen within the span of one oil change but sometimes the more severe results may not be seen until the second oil change. In the USA there is an API circle on many oil bottles with an inner circle and outer ring. If the outer bottom ring is blank then it is good for using with a wet clutch. That outer bottom ring is where Resource Conserving or Energy Conserving will be indicated. Those bottles that don't have this circle should have that designated somewhere on the bottle or at least in documentation about the oil. JASO MA or JASO MA2 are simply certifications that indicate the oil is good for bikes with a wet clutch. In my past bikes I've usually used Rotella T6 full synthetic which is certified as JASO MA/MA2. Sometimes I have used SuperTech full synthetic 10w-40 until they changed it to make it a Resource Conserving oil and then I stopped. Sometimes I have used Valvoline when I can find it with the JASO MA certification. Personally I don't care what brand or viscosity oil anyone chooses to use. But if asked I will always say that if you have a wet clutch don't use any oil that is not certified JASO MA or is designated as Resource Conserving or Energy Conserving... unless you want to be doing clutch service in the near future.


So I agree that you don't have to use the oil bought from a dealer (if you do your own oil changes). But do be careful what oil you do use.


Thanks. And no, not a writer. But I am a detail person and a little anal about some things.  :o

Quick little panic attack...had to run down and dig the empties out of the trash to make sure i had used the right oil :D

Mobile1 Racing Full Synthetic 4t SAE 10W-40 "Meets or exceeds requirements of JASO MA/MA2 API SN"

Gooood....gooood...

I just bought it because it had the little picture of a motorcycle on it. :P :) :D

Its great living in a virtually idiot-proof society
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rjs987

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Re: New 2022 Kymco AK 550
« Reply #56 on: November 13, 2021, 06:35:33 PM »
Just looked in the AK 550 service manual. The wet clutch is contained in what Kymco is calling the Mission Box. On pages 4-42 through 4-46 are the steps for removing disassembling what the SM calls several times the "wet clutch" and performing some service on it.


The engine crank shaft feeds into the drive pulley of the CVT, which spins the driven pulley of the CVT. The output of the CVT feeds into the wet clutch. This wet clutch outputs to what Kymco is calling the final drive, which is a set of reduction gears that output on the final shaft. The final shaft is what the forward sprocket for the final drive/timing belt is mounted on.
The wet clutch and final drive reduction gear set and final shaft/sprocket are all on the left side just behind the water pump cover of the engine.


Interesting to me is that Suzuki calls the final drive reduction gear set the "transmission" on the Burgman 650 yet is not referring to the CVT. This has caused some confusion with some owners who did their own maintenance thinking they were changing the oil in the CVT on the left side of that engine. But the CVT is on the right side just like on the AK. I think calling that reduction gear set the "final drive" is better, yet still not best.
/bob
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NomadCF

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Re: New 2022 Kymco AK 550
« Reply #57 on: November 13, 2021, 07:00:45 PM »

No, there is definitely a clutch that is after any CVT in a scooter drive train. Even little 50 cc scooters have a clutch between the CVT and final drive gears at the rear wheel. However in the swing arm mounted engines with the CVT along the swing arm the clutch is a dry clutch. But in every scooter with a frame mounted engine that I've looked into the clutch is a wet clutch that shares the engine oil.
There is no clutch LEVER since the clutch is automatic. But there is a clutch. I HAVE been reading my service manual for the AK and there is an entire section just on the clutch and reduction gear set that is between the CVT and final drive/timing belt. And I have read the service manual for my wife's Metropolitan and my Burgman as well as worked on those. THERE IS A CLUTCH. The CVT is in place of a fixed gear transmission, but it does not replace the clutch. Basic vehicle drive train mechanics. Almost the only vehicle that may not have a clutch is an electric drive vehicle. But even then, if there is a gas motor, such as with a hybrid, there is a clutch in those as well.


And just to add to complexity any bike with DCT has TWO clutches! And those are usually wet clutches.


If you have a swing arm mounted CVT and clutch you don't have to be concerned with what oil goes into the engine... other than recommended viscosity and oil serviceability rating. But if the clutch is mounted as part of the engine casing, as in the AK 550, then you do.




BTW- whats "ma Orr"? typo? Oh, you were referring to JASO MA/MA2... and there definitely is mention of JASO in the owner manual. Been working with and seeing those specs on oil for over the last 15 years.

Feel free to upload a picture of the manual page asking/stating you need a MA(2) oil for the engine.

And no the AK550 nor does almost any other CVT have a wet clutch or require MA(2) type oil. This isn't even a question. Hell even some Harley's doesn't don't even require a MA(2) engine oil. As they have a separated systems/housing for they're wet clutch and engines.

I love how people throw around how many years they've been doing X. Like that matters, let the facts speak for themselves and not your perspective on life.

MA(2) oils are all about the lack of friction modifiers for your clutch. To much slippage and things won't engage. But in a CVT just like that's in the AK550, there is no gearing clutch or wet clutch.

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Re: New 2022 Kymco AK 550
« Reply #58 on: November 13, 2021, 09:15:12 PM »
Owners Manual:

Clampett

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Re: New 2022 Kymco AK 550
« Reply #59 on: November 13, 2021, 09:20:31 PM »
Service manual:

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