Carb bowl draining issue

[Lonegun86]

Hi all! I’ve got a weird issue with my 2008 People S 200. When preparing to store it for the winter I loosened the carb float bowl screw to drain the gas from the bowl. Instead of the gas streaming out the bottom like it’s supposed to according to a video on YouTube, it just never came out. A little bit of gas trickled out the screw hole but it never drained how it’s supposed to. I can’t seem to find where the line it’s connected to actually goes. I see it goes straight back but can’t follow it any further. In the video it looks like it’s supposed to end up at the bottom towards the middle of the bike on the left side. The only line there is capped off. I uncapped it and some oil trickled out but not gas. It also looks like there is supposed to be another line next to the one with the oil but there’s no line there. Anyone know what the line coming out of the bottom is supposed to look like or what might be going on with mine? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I’d love to know where that gas is ending up. Thanks!

[Ruffus]

@Lonegun86, welcome here in this  KYMCO hive.
Opening the drain screw means not necessarely lots of fuel running out of your float bowl. .

This screw acts as a valve and there could be some gunk in it, which clogges the drain.

At the lowest point of your carb SHOULD BE, an appr 8mm thick transparent hose (drain tube). BUT, there might be your fuel drain tube just missing.
 The second one you are referring to (thicker one 15mm) is the air filter box drain, and will have some oily/watery stuff in, as you write. Take off this end plug and empty.

Att. pls see link, maybe helps a little.
https://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=31762.msg222535#msg222535

and
https://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=31659.msg221713#msg221713

Any further questions, you're welcome.

[Iahawk]

Lonegun - I just happen to have a People S200 in my garage with my plastic tub (and other things) off..so I took a few pics.

First pic is from right side (rider's point of view), looking back. I circled the drain screw and you can see the hose exiting under the carb to the left and slightly back.

Second pic is from left side, you can see routing of drain hose next to my red line/arrow.

Last pic is of the left side of the scoot. You can see the black carb drain hose running down and next to the 'puke tube' . The drain tube ends at about the same level under the scoot as the puke tube but an inch or two more toward the center of the scooter.

These drain lines are easy move around if someone ever worked on the carb or bike. Very easy to not put them back in their original place as there are a lot of vacuum lines and other stuff on these scoots.

[Lonegun86]

Wow, thank you Ruffus and Iahawk! Very helpful information. Based on Iahawk's photos I can definitely see that while my drain hose is attached at the very beginning, it most definitely is not routed out anywhere from what I can see. My best guess is that it's snipped pretty high up and probably only runs about 4 or 5 inches in total. Now that I'm thinking about it, when I first loosened the drain screw, a little bit of gasoline ended up seeping to right around the area where Iahawk's second photo showing the routing of the tube is at. I had originally thought it was just dripping down from the screw hole but the tube being cut short makes more sense now. I guess now I have to decide whether it's worth pulling things apart to replace the drain hose or just leave it be. Thanks for the help figuring this out. I'm a new member to the forum and it seems like this community is an invaluable resource already!

[Ruffus]

@Lonegun, IF your scoot is running perfectely then is no need to dissasamble your fuel system.

Obvious reason for having this longer draintube is not to have (in case of emptying the carb) fuel immedeately on your (maybe) hot motor or exhaust pipe.

Only if your scoot sits for a while and you get idling or other possibly carb related issues, then...
If you store your scoot for awhile, put an additive in it.

[Iahawk]

glad we could help! If you ever do decide to pull your carb to attach a proper drain hose it is possible to do it very easily without disconnecting anything (except maybe 1 vacuum line on top?).

I have unhooked my carb from both the airbox and intake then flipped it over and removed the carb bowl...all without disconnecting fuel line, throttle cables, etc.. You can just flip the carb over on its 'back'...I have done this a few times to clean the pilot jet, which seems to love to clog itself on my scoot.

I'll attach a pic..looking from left side of scoot (blue towel is plugging the intake).

Not a lot of us S200 riders left but still plenty of knowledge on this board...and our scoot shares the engine (minus fuel injection) with the Like 200...so lots of info and parts available.

[Iahawk]

Lonegun - are you a new scooter owner? Long time owner?  We love pics, here...so feel free to show us your scoot!

Also if you're a newer owner of the S200 I can definitely say the best thing I've done to the scoot is to change the front fork oil. That one thing made a bigger improvement to the ride than really anything else you can do. A few others have done it and agree.

I have a write up on it somewhere in the S200 forum. It truly changes the feel of the scoot and makes it so much more enjoyable to ride.

$10 in fork oil and a few hours of your time...time and money well spent.

[Lonegun86]

@Ruffus and @Iahawk, thanks again! I think I'll hold off on trying to attach a new drain tube for now and maybe make that a summer project. I figure since I already drained whatever is in the carb bowl and don't intend to do so more than once per season, probably better to not mess with it at the moment. I'll probably make that a future project along with the front fork oil. Thanks for the fork oil tip. Sounds like a worthwhile investment of time. I'll have to look into it and look at the forum post. For now I think I'll button her back up and move to my next project-replacing the speedometer cable.

For context, I am a newish owner of a 2008 S200. Got it in December (perfect timing to buy a new bike in the Midwest, lol). I've owned multiple Honda Aero 50s and Honda Cubs from the 1980's but decided to finally get a more "modern" bike for commuting. I am okay with basic bike maintenance and have a fairly limited knowledge of small engines but I can do most basic things. First impressions after getting a few rides in with the S200 were great. Love the extra power compared to 50cc bikes and handles beautifully. Very pleased with it and can't wait for the weather to get warm. In the meantime, I need to replace the speedo cable (which I already have a replacement part of) but I'm not sure how to lubricate it. The manual says to apply grease but I'm not sure a) what kind of grease or if silicone spray is okay and b) where exactly to apply it. Should I cover the whole cable and then reapply in the speedometer cable housing or just lubricate the ends or just the middle? I've seen a lot of different opinions online. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated! Also, I'm attaching a couple photos of the bike.

[Ruffus]

@Lonegun,
conerning fork oil change pls see @Iahawks write up about.

For the speedo cable: If you have a complete new set of cable and sheath, lubricate the lower (wheel side) part only.
Reason for this: Grease or any other lube, if applied on the upper (dashboard side) part of your cable, will worm its way up to the mechanical part of your speedometer and cause destruction on its plastic sprockets.

Most of speedo cables break at its wheel side, there where it changes from round to square, caused by corrosion. So put a generous smear of bearing grease into this little gear.

[Iahawk]

To replace your speedo cable you’ll need to open the headlight / speedometer cover…which is a pain. We should have some write ups on that but come back if you need more info.

If your cover is open that is a great time to change front brake fluid, too, as the master is covered by the cover.

(great looking scoot! How many miles?)

[Lonegun86]

Thanks again for the info @Iahawk and Ruffus. I was planning to take off the front cover to replace the speedo cable and that's a good point about changing the fork oil while the cover is off. My plans to remove the front cover are based on the info from this video: but if you have any other tips or tricks, I'd love to hear them. Looks like the screws are pretty straightforward but the little plastic tabs are finicky. Wanted to open the front cover up also to check the cables for my glovebox and seat lock. Both the glovebox and seat releases don't work using the key and ignition to unlock them so I'm thinking the a cable might be unplugged or possibly needs to be replaced since it's affecting both of them. The seat doesn't lock and is perpetually in the unlocked position (better than perpetually in the unlocked position, haha). Tried shining a flashlight through the grill to see what's going on or if anything is obviously unplugged/out of place but can't get a good enough look to determine anything conclusive.

The scoot's got about 7,300 miles on the odometer but that figure isn't completely accurate. The mileage on the odometer doesn't increase while riding (presumably because of the broken speedo cable) so the 7.3 k miles doesn't account for whatever miles have been added since it broke.

[Ruffus]

@Lonegun, Iahawk and I did this front shock thing.
It's not that hard and tricky at all.
Maybe this thread helps....

https://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=30483.msg213236#msg213236

Concerning plastic parts removal, take your time.
This lock prob, most probably a stuck cable in its sheath. Renewal is the remedy

Plastic reviets: push the middle knob appr. 5 mm into, then pull the whole reviet out.

[Iahawk]

for speedo cable and front master brake cylinder access you remove a different cover. The video shows the 'front' cover removal, which will give you access to the back side of the ignition module (which also controls your glovebox and seat release cables) and the top of your forks.

Front cover is 6 screws facing the rider, 2 facing the front on either side of the tire and 1 bolt right in the middle, under the grille, hiding under a little tab that you pop off from reaching behind it.

Not sure what he's talking about with a screwdriver...I've never used one (nor would I) as a prying tool to remove the front cover.

Speedo cable and master are accessed by separating the headlight and speedo cover.  I'll attach a few pics. That takes 4 screws facing the rider and then the 2 'Frankenstein' bolts on either side, down lower on the headlight/speedo cover.

You'll want to unbolt both front turn signals, first (I cover mine with a sock, then let them hang down, otherwise you're likely to scratch your paint). Take out the 4 visible screws and finally the 2 bolts on either side. Separating the cover is a PAIN...I also have used painter's tape to cover the flat area above the glovebox and under the rotating headlight/speedo cover to prevent scratching during this procedure.

With the side bolts out you have to pull out hard on the front and back covers to clear the female part where the bolt is threaded into. A putty knife or other prying device, wrapped in tape to prevent scratching, works well. I actually use a 'zip' tool, used for separating pieces of vinyl siding to get in there and pry. I'll show a few pics. This is very hard to explain...you'll probably just have to start working on it and come back here if you get stuck.

[Iahawk]

more pics..and when you separate the covers, only the speedo cover will pull backward. The headlight will remain fixed, which is fine for what you're doing. If you want to also pull the headlight cover forward there are 3 bolts in there (left, center and right) that you'll loosen to then be able to pull the headlight cover forward a few inches.

Of all the plastic removal on this scoot I least enjoy separating the speedo / headlight cover!

[Iahawk]

in the top pic, above, 1 is the front (headlight) cover. This is a closeup of the side bolt, right side. You pull cover 1 out about 1 inch. While keeping this pulled out you then also pull out on (speedo) cover panel almost as far so the tab on the back cover can clear the bolt hole. Then you can pull back on the back cover. You will also have to unsnap the 2 covers from each other as the 4 screws seem to be more decorative than anything and removing the screws only allows you the ability to unsnap front and back covers.

I know this sounds confusing...but give it a try and come back here if you need help.