Kymco Agility 50

[spindel]

Hi folks!
Having issues w/ agility 50 2019 12 4t euro 4. It starts fine, runs for a minute and then stops. Checked the spark -- looks too wet. Tried to adjust the idle screw, pilot screw, another battery, replaced bystarter, checked the vacuum pump. Nothing helped. Starts fine, runs perfect for a bit, and then revs drop and the engine stalls. Same result if I try to open the gas just a bit. The issue happened after the 5k maintenance in a service, but even before that I had to warm the engine before it would run smoothly (full throttle  after cold start would  almost stall the engine). It looks to me that the mixture is too rich. What makes sense to check next? TPS and CDI or carburetor right away?

[CROSSBOLT]

Hi folks!
Having issues w/ agility 50 2019 12 4t euro 4. It starts fine, runs for a minute and then stops. Checked the spark -- looks too wet. Tried to adjust the idle screw, pilot screw, another battery, replaced bystarter, checked the vacuum pump. Nothing helped. Starts fine, runs perfect for a bit, and then revs drop and the engine stalls. Same result if I try to open the gas just a bit. The issue happened after the 5k maintenance in a service, but even before that I had to warm the engine before it would run smoothly (full throttle  after cold start would  almost stall the engine). It looks to me that the mixture is too rich. What makes sense to check next? TPS and CDI or carburetor right away?

According to the wiring diagram for your model of the Agility 50 4t euro4 it is an EFI engine with an ECU and the THROTTLE BODY is fixed at the factory and should not be "adjusted" at any time. So if you replaced the bystarter on and engine that has none, either it is  neither euro 4 nor an EFI engine or my information is wrong.
Who, exactly performed this 5000k service and what did they do?
What was done to correct the cold idle problem? This cold idle issue was precisely the problem I had with the 2008 Agility 50 I had in 2008. It had a carburetor.

[punktnet]

If it stops after a minute, then it might be too lean. The bystarter is active for that amount of time and his role is to enrich the mixture to cope with cold start.
Maybe there is an issue with airbox or air filter and there is too much air because of a leak.
If the mixture is too rich on idle, you`ll find soot deposit on the spark.

If there is a carburetor installed, adjust the mixture screw to 2 1/2 turns as mentioned in the service manual then try again

[spindel]

According to the wiring diagram for your model of the Agility 50 4t euro4 it is an EFI engine with an ECU and the THROTTLE BODY is fixed at the factory and should not be "adjusted" at any time. So if you replaced the bystarter on and engine that has none, either it is  neither euro 4 nor an EFI engine or my information is wrong.
Who, exactly performed this 5000k service and what did they do?
What was done to correct the cold idle problem? This cold idle issue was precisely the problem I had with the 2008 Agility 50 I had in 2008. It had a carburetor.

By starter (e choke) was in stock. 5k service was a regular "big" one, nothing outstanding (spark plug replacement, oil etc), no additional maintainace. And there was nothing done with the cold start issue (service done in summer).

Checked the sparkplug and filter (disconnected air pipe as well) - nothing.

[spindel]

If it stops after a minute, then it might be too lean. The bystarter is active for that amount of time and his role is to enrich the mixture to cope with cold start.
Maybe there is an issue with airbox or air filter and there is too much air because of a leak.
If the mixture is too rich on idle, you`ll find soot deposit on the spark.

If there is a carburetor installed, adjust the mixture screw to 2 1/2 turns as mentioned in the service manual then try again

I would not say that spark had soot deposit, but I should check with a clean one i guess.But it was wet, when I took it out.

As far as I understand, it takes some time for the bystarter to get back to the initial position. Meaning, it shouldn't matter if I hit the problem at the second start. But looking screws around it seems to make the issue appear a bit later. That is why I thought that the mixture is too rich.

Tried to tighten/relax mixture screw. Did not work as well.

Checked cables as well, reconnected all of them. Still no clue.

[spindel]

Rechecked the carb once again. Euro 4 with echoke and two air valves. ach5-e11

Cold start is great. Adding gas feels fine, no explosions/choke. Runs for a min and stalls. Restarting couple of time works the same, then battery gets low - no spark (volume level check in ECU?..).

Checked both air solenoid valves.
Connect/disconnect/clean/disconnect and block.
Nothing outstanding, ECU detects disconnect.

Checked throttle value position. Disconnect/remove.
Nothing outstanding,  ECU detects disconnect. Set back to the most relaxed position.

Echoke is new, old one tested - works fine.

Checked gas line from the tank is not dry.

Mixture screw set to 2 and 1/2.

Any electronics check missing? It is still a mystery to me it is not idling indefinitely. What's so special ECU can be doing?

[spindel]

Update: Looks like still a carb issue. Started cold with higher idle revs. Waited until echoke kicks in. Was able to keep it running for some time. But tuning with the mixture won't succeed (unstable, stalls after a bit). Looks like carb cleaning (?) is needed.

[eamartin]

Update: Looks like still a carb issue. Started cold with higher idle revs. Waited until echoke kicks in. Was able to keep it running for some time. But tuning with the mixture won't succeed (unstable, stalls after a bit). Looks like carb cleaning (?) is needed.

You have not yet cleaned the carb?

[spindel]

New ignition coil solved the issue at the end.

[Stig / Major Tom]

New ignition coil solved the issue at the end.

Thank you for posting the fix for this!

Stig