Author Topic: Kymco AK 550 wheel R&R  (Read 1824 times)

rjs987

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Kymco AK 550 wheel R&R
« on: September 12, 2022, 03:02:38 PM »
For those who have this scooter and want to take in just the wheels for a tire change, or want to do their own tire changes, here are the sections I extracted to a PDF for the front and rear wheel/belt remove and replace from the service manual.
The file size for one of the files is too big for attaching to the post so I am posting the link to the shared PDF on my Google Drive. You should be able to download it from there. Let me know if there are any issues doing that.

Kymco AK 550 front wheel r&r.pdf
Kymco AK 550 rear wheel & belt r&r.pdf

I'll be replacing the front tire on my AK in the next week (I think) so I thought "why not post the information."
« Last Edit: September 12, 2022, 03:06:03 PM by rjs987 »
/bob
2022 Kymco AK 550 Super Touring Extreme in Matte Deep Blue
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rjs987

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Re: Kymco AK 550 wheel R&R
« Reply #1 on: September 12, 2022, 05:47:15 PM »
Just another note about the axle removal on both front and rear.

Front: you will need a 24mm socket for the right side axle bolt and a 20mm hex bit for the left end of the axle. I already have the 24mm socket but needed to order a 20mm hex bit.
The instructions for removing the front axle seems to indicate that the axle will simply slide out once the bolt on the right side is out and the pinch bolts are loose so I don't really know if the hex bit is needed other than to help the axle slide out.
This is the 20mm hex bit I bought: https://a.co/d/1nFeuiC
The title says 3/8 inch drive but the decription says 1/2 inch drive. It is a 1/2 inch drive which makes more sense for a bit this size.

Rear: you will need a 27mm socket for the nut on the right end of the axle. I didn't have one of those either so ordered this one on Amazon: Performance Tool M837 1/2 Dr 27mm 6Point Impact Socket
« Last Edit: September 17, 2022, 06:53:35 PM by rjs987 »
/bob
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Iahawk

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Re: Kymco AK 550 wheel R&R
« Reply #2 on: September 12, 2022, 09:41:15 PM »
I'm sure this will be helpful to other AK owners. It's also amazing how we all buy tools these days..go online, a few clicks and it's at your door in a day or two.
2010 People S200 - sold after 8 wonderful years!
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rjs987

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Re: Kymco AK 550 wheel R&R
« Reply #3 on: September 12, 2022, 10:40:26 PM »
I'm sure this will be helpful to other AK owners. It's also amazing how we all buy tools these days..go online, a few clicks and it's at your door in a day or two.

That's just why I posted. And it is amazing how so many things we buy these days are bought online and delivered to our door step. Especially when the price is the same as local and shipping is free and it shows up in a day or two. Way too convenient.
/bob
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rjs987

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Re: Kymco AK 550 wheel R&R
« Reply #4 on: September 14, 2022, 10:13:24 PM »
Removed the front wheel today and took in to the dealer for the tire change. Already got it back from them. The dealer is not a Kymco dealer but is the one I have gone to for many years with my Burgman 650 super scooters.

During the removal process I discovered that the spark plug tool that is included in the AK tool kit is in fact the right size, outer size, for the hex/Allen socket of the left end of the axle. I also found out that the only real need for using that tool is to assist in turning the axle to draw it out after the axle bolt on the right end is removed and the pinch bolts are loosened. And even then, once the axle is pulled out a few inches I can grab it with my hand and twist to pull it out the rest of the way. I still prefer to have a solid hex bit for that anyway. I'll find out when I put the wheel back on if that tool is needed to torque the axle bolt.

I don't have a motorcycle lift. But I'm not certain that would help with this bike anyway. Not much exposed on the bottom without removing plastic to sit on a lift. But there is just a little of the engine between the oil filter and center stand hanging down. So I put a bag of rubber mulch that was on hand on top of a board, which was placed on top of a scissors jack. I have 3 of these jacks. The rubber works great to support the bottom of the AK without any damage. I also put more bags of mulch on the luggage rack to keep the rear weighted down. After the front wheel is off I slide the axle back in and use the other 2 jacks to support the forks for added stability. The rear tire is on the ground and also the center stand and also the jack under the center as well as the forks. All supporting the bike and keeping it stable.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/epwiEo7A7v2mtpux9
/bob
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Neil955i

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Re: Kymco AK 550 wheel R&R
« Reply #5 on: September 15, 2022, 11:50:46 AM »
Yep. Better solution than sitting the wife on the back! 😂🤣
Regards & ride safe,
Neil

Current garage:  Kymco DTX360 & Triumph Street Triple 675R
Past bikes: BSA C15. Honda S/wing (GL500). Kawasaki GPz750. BMW K100RS. Kawasaki GPZ900R. Yamaha FJ1200 x2. Sprint. Triumph Daytona 900. Kawasaki ZX-7R. T595 Daytona. Kawasaki ZX-9R x2. Triumph Daytona 955i. X-Town

rjs987

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Re: Kymco AK 550 wheel R&R
« Reply #6 on: September 15, 2022, 02:11:42 PM »
Yep. Better solution than sitting the wife on the back! 😂🤣

I did do exactly that with my Gold Wing once. She didn't like being the "weight" on back.  ::)
/bob
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rjs987

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Re: Kymco AK 550 wheel R&R
« Reply #7 on: September 16, 2022, 12:40:35 AM »
Finished installing the front wheel with new tire. Easy job. I did get more blue Loctite just to ensure I had enough since my old tube was getting low but I didn't need to open the new one... yet.
The service manual does not give the specific order of what bolt to torque first, then second, etc. But it's not hard to use common sense.

Removal is to first take off the front fender, which I do recommend to make it easier. Then remove the speed sensor. Then remove both brake calipers. I cut a standard paint stir stick in half and stick that in between the pads to prevent accidentally extending the caliper pistons too far since the brake disc is not between them. I hold the stick in there with a rubber band on each caliper. Then I use a short bungee cord to hang the calipers to take the strain off the brake hoses. Then remove the axle bolt on the right side with a 24 mm socket. Then loosen the pinch bolts with a 6mm Allen bit. Then support the front wheel off the ground. Then pull the axle out the left side using the 20 mm hex bit to assist by twisting the axle as it is pulled out. Then the wheel can be rolled out from between the forks making sure to catch the spacers on each side of the wheel. Basically just what the service manual pages I linked to above say to do.

Install is ALMOST the reverse. I put a bit of high speed grease on the bearings and on the inner edges of the spacers as well as a thin coat of grease on the axle. Then put the spacers in place on each side of the wheel. Then hold the wheel in place as the axle is slid back in. This is where the common sense comes in. If I truly followed the reverse of the removal steps I'd torque the pinch bolts at this point and THEN torque the axle bolt on the right side. BUT, what if the axle is not fully/completely pushed in and the pinch bolts are holding the axle from fully being pulled in all the way when putting torque on the axle bolt. Therefor, I snug the pinch bolts, just snug and not torqued. Then I torque the axle bolt on the right side with blue Loctite on the threads. It is at this point that the 20 mm hex bit is needed to hold the left end of the axle in order to torque the axle bolt on the right end. THEN I torque the pinch bolts to proper torque. So now I know the axle is seated all the way properly. This time I did use the spark plug bit in the bike tool kit since the outer size of that is 20 mm. But I would feel much better using a real 20 mm hex bit which is expected to arrive in about a week.

After this the brake calipers are put back on using Loctite on the caliper mounting bolts. Then the speed sensor and after that the front fender.

All that is left to do is to pump the forks a few times and pump the front brakes a few times and then go for a short check ride to verify everything works normally.

There. Now you don't need to read the service manual pages... other than to get the actual torque values. I noted that torque values were given as a range so I tried to go for the middle of that range. Don't want to over torque anything but also don't want to under torque those important bolts.
« Last Edit: September 28, 2022, 02:52:41 PM by rjs987 »
/bob
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rjs987

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Re: Kymco AK 550 wheel R&R
« Reply #8 on: November 23, 2022, 05:04:46 PM »
Planning to replace the rear tire today. Warmest day of the week. Expecting the high to be around 55 F from 1 pm to 3 pm. I set the new rear tire in sun inside the house earlier this morning, in front of the south facing deck slider, to warm up the bead and hope to get out to do the deed after lunch. Just flipped the tire over since one side feels warmed up now.

I also spent a little time this morning reviewing the service manual section (in my first post of this thread) on the R&R of the rear wheel. Some of the pictures and instructions seem to be more than what would be needed just to remove and replace the wheel for a tire swap but I'll figure that out as I go. Example: the photos show the front driving belt sprocket is removed. I highly doubt that needs to be done. I hope to avoid totally removing the drive/timing belt from the bike but just get it off the rear driven belt sprocket. Other than that the rest of the task looks to be very similar to my Burgman 650 for R&R of the rear wheel. Only the rear brake caliper mounting bolts and the axle have torque values to pay attention to, and possibly the rear shock IF I really do need to remove that (one of the items that may not need to be removed).
/bob
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NorWeWa

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Re: Kymco AK 550 wheel R&R
« Reply #9 on: November 23, 2022, 05:21:41 PM »
Usually becomes obvious once you start.

Art 

rjs987

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Re: Kymco AK 550 wheel R&R
« Reply #10 on: November 24, 2022, 01:44:13 AM »
The wheel was easy to remove. Didn't need to touch the rear shock. Checked the final drive/timing belt (Kymco calls it a timing belt) and that's good. I'm taking some pictures along the way so will write a document for this procedure. That 160/60 R15 Metzeler Feel Free tire is a BEAR to get OFF the rim and then to get the new one ON the rim. Glad I ordered the extra long spoons. One of the rim protectors was pushed into the tire just as I was getting the last bead over the rim edge and then the cord on the rim protector broke on me. Dinged the paint on that part of the rim as a result. Had to pull the bead off the rim half way around on one side to get it out and then the hassle of getting the tire back over the rim again. Only dragged out a half dozen individual Dyna Beads when getting it out. Won't affect the needed weight of Dyna Beads. Then seating the bead was a real challenge. Had to put a ratchet strap very tightly around the tire to finally get it to seat. Took a very long time for all that. Had to bump the psi to around 80 just to finally seat the bead in place. But it did finally pop in. A REAL STIFF BEAD even though I had it sitting in direct sun all day until I was ready to mount it. Will have to finish getting the wheel back on the bike tomorrow since I am beat. That's hard work for an old guy.
/bob
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Stig / Major Tom

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Re: Kymco AK 550 wheel R&R
« Reply #11 on: November 24, 2022, 04:11:49 AM »
Ok, but wouldn't you pay a dealer $35 to do this R&R ....,in hindsight?
No nicks, no aggro....

Just sayin'
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rjs987

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Re: Kymco AK 550 wheel R&R
« Reply #12 on: November 24, 2022, 04:30:15 AM »
Ok, but wouldn't you pay a dealer $35 to do this R&R ....,in hindsight?
No nicks, no aggro....

Just sayin'
Stig

Nah. I wanted the experience and I've also read of many dealers dinging up the rims also (did happen once for a past bike at my dealer). Besides, when I took the front wheel in to the dealer to do it cost around $55. So saved a little this time and will save much more next tire replacement since most of the initial cost this time (to get the tools) is not repeated in future.
It's OK. Can't see it while the wheel is spinning.  ;)
/bob
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Neil955i

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Re: Kymco AK 550 wheel R&R
« Reply #13 on: November 24, 2022, 10:57:08 AM »
I once used nail polish in the right shade to mask a tiny blemish on a Kawasaki wheel.  Like you say, can't see it once it's rolling!
Regards & ride safe,
Neil

Current garage:  Kymco DTX360 & Triumph Street Triple 675R
Past bikes: BSA C15. Honda S/wing (GL500). Kawasaki GPz750. BMW K100RS. Kawasaki GPZ900R. Yamaha FJ1200 x2. Sprint. Triumph Daytona 900. Kawasaki ZX-7R. T595 Daytona. Kawasaki ZX-9R x2. Triumph Daytona 955i. X-Town

rjs987

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Re: Kymco AK 550 wheel R&R
« Reply #14 on: December 03, 2022, 02:07:36 AM »
Here, finally, is my write up on getting the rear tire replaced and the belt tension reset.

Replacing the Kymco AK 550 rear tire
« Last Edit: December 03, 2022, 02:10:43 AM by rjs987 »
/bob
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