So to start my initial work on the bike the belt was loose... like really loose I could touch the internal teeth together if I squeezed in the middle and if I ran the bike the belt would catch and slip and hit the top and bottom of the drive case. luckily I took the drive faces off measured the OD of the belt got confused because everything looked fine and put it back together lo' and behold somehow putting it back together solved the issue the belt now only had about an inch of play and this brought to light my next issue a very slippery clutch which you can see here
https://imgur.com/a/jqfD9YL (unfortunately I didn't take a video of this next part) When on its center stand the clutch will happily grab the bell and spin the rear tire but once any resistance is added to the mix it slips all over the place I did attempt to rough up the pads & bell showing a minor improvement allowing me to move around at an astonishing 1 mph after a running start. this brought to light yet another issue after I stopped I could hear a boiling somewhere in the coolant loop which is unfortunate but nowhere near as unfortunate as the chocolate milk-colored mix of oil and coolant that began to drip from the bottom of the bike when stopped, after checking the dipstick it appears only oil is slipping into the coolant loop and not the other way around (small victories I suppose)
to make a long thing short I need help finding a clutch bell or any aftermarket clutch & drive parts that may help the issue/increase performance (or the recommendation to rough it up even more)(also does anyone know if the clutch is more slippery without the housing cover? I know it has a bearing but would running it with the cover off effect the clutches short term performance?)
And I believe a new oil coolant interface or a way to block off the oil coolant interface or a way to patch into the interface to use a larger more efficient aftermarket oil cooler that is less prone to creating chocolate milk.
